Reluctantly Dropping Spyderco's For Coti

[azmark]

I've been really trying to stick with my Spyderco hones that I've had for years. Same ones and still rocking. Picked up a coti a few months ago and have been experimenting with just coti and using dilucot method and hybrid with finishing with the UF.

Im really coming accustomed to the coti edge and finished a little project with a Freddy Reynolds 5/8 that I ran it over a DMT600 but can't get the scratch pattern off with the coti. Im I doing something wrong? Or is there another slurry suggestion? Im pretty new with the coti and I have no issues with the Spydee's.

 

[holli4pirating]

There are some Reynolds out there with very hard steel, I mean really really hard. I refuse to buy them anymore cause I hate honing them. It's like a grudgematch.

Anyway, it sounds like you have one of these really hard ones. Add to that that DMT's are very aggressive (aka deep scratches) and you have a fair amount of work to do. It's just gonna take time, no matter what hones you use.

 

[Ray-man]

As you already know, the DMT 600 is a pretty course cutter and will put some deep scratches in the the edge while making the bevel. So there is going to be some real work ahead of you to take them out. This doesn't mean that the Coticule won't be able to do this though.

Working with the slurry on the coticule takes a little practice, at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's a piece of cake. You want the slurry to look a little like milk and not much thicker than that. Any thicker will just tend to dull the blade and not get much done. Work the blade back and forth and about every 20 or so laps add two drops of water to the mix and do another two drops. Keep this up until the mixture is pretty much clear or the edge will cut arm hair. Then check back here for more details.

Better yet, go here for more information than you can possibly find anywhere else about Coticules and a great bunch of guy's ready to help you out with any questions you might have.

Good Luck.

Ray

 

[azmark]

There are some Reynolds out there with very hard steel, I mean really really hard. I refuse to buy them anymore cause I hate honing them. It's like a grudgematch.

Anyway, it sounds like you have one of these really hard ones. Add to that that DMT's are very aggressive (aka deep scratches) and you have a fair amount of work to do. It's just gonna take time, no matter what hones you use.

Very interesting. I wish I would have tried with a Norton 4000 since there wasn't much wear, other than a small blunt spots and chip.

 

[azmark]

As you already know, the DMT 600 is a pretty course cutter and will put some deep scratches in the the edge while making the bevel. So there is going to be some real work ahead of you to take them out. This doesn't mean that the Coticule won't be able to do this though.

Working with the slurry on the coticule takes a little practice, at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's a piece of cake. You want the slurry to look a little like milk and not much thicker than that. Any thicker will just tend to dull the blade and not get much done. Work the blade back and forth and about every 20 or so laps add two drops of water to the mix and do another two drops. Keep this up until the mixture is pretty much clear or the edge will cut arm hair. Then check back here for more details.

Better yet, go here for more information than you can possibly find anywhere else about Coticules and a great bunch of guy's ready to help you out with any questions you might have.

Good Luck.

Ray

Should I use half strokes to speed the process or will that just reset the bevel?

I was just going to post on Coticlue.de but the site loads a little slow on my iphone.

 

[jendeindustries]

There are some Reynolds out there with very hard steel, I mean really really hard. I refuse to buy them anymore cause I hate honing them. It's like a grudgematch.

What kind of hardness are you talking about (on the rockwell scale)? Anything over RC 62 would be considered "pretty hard" in my book and I have my reservations about them being that hard, in general.
IIRC, sharpening A-2 RC 62 blades are what the Shapton Glass stones were designed for.

Thick is another story, though.

 

[holli4pirating]

What kind of hardness are you talking about (on the rockwell scale)? Anything over RC 62 would be considered "pretty hard" in my book and I have my reservations about them being that hard, in general.
IIRC, sharpening A-2 RC 62 blades are what the Shapton Glass stones were designed for.

Thick is another story, though.

I've no idea what they would be on the Rockwell scale. I can only qualitatively compare to other razors.

 

[richmondesi]

Should I use half strokes to speed the process or will that just reset the bevel?

I was just going to post on Coticlue.de but the site loads a little slow on my iphone.

yes, half-strokes are recommended usually for the bevel resetting.

 

[professorchaos]

There are some Reynolds out there with very hard steel, I mean really really hard. I refuse to buy them anymore cause I hate honing them. It's like a grudgematch.

I had similar experiences and stopped buying them. Wasn't sure who was honing who - the razor or the hone.

 

[azmark]

yes, half-strokes are recommended usually for the bevel resetting.

It's coming out pretty good now with heavy slurry. Not polished yet but the scratches aren't as deep. I'll get some pictures up soon.

 

[richmondesi]

It's coming out pretty good now with heavy slurry. Not polished yet but the scratches aren't as deep. I'll get some pictures up soon.

Don't worry about a polished bevel. Worry about keenness

 

[danjared]

I had similar experiences and stopped buying them. Wasn't sure who was honing who - the razor or the hone.

You guys should properly dispose of your unwanted Reynolds razors by sending them to me.

 

[jendeindustries]

You guys should properly dispose of your unwanted Reynolds razors by sending them to me.

I was about to suggest the same thing! Let's split them!