Razors out in the wild: What do we have here?
- Thread starter bmilcs
- Start date
In general, they look like pretty normal user grade stuff. We don't appraise anything, but here's what I would do, if I had the cash on me and didn't have to feel guilty about buying more.
Top down:
-skip it, too rusty.
- skip it; screwed up toe
- I'd buy it if the price was acceptable and it looked decent/scales ok. Would take some work to hone it back to good steel, but otherwise a decent razor.
- I'd get it
- iffy...probably skip it
- id get it (I like boston)
- Skip it. Take a bit to get out the frown, not worth my effort. Cute that it has dubl duck scales on that razor.
- skip it. I don't go for those scales nor the guard thing
- if that blade is not cracked, it looks cool (rattler? Not sure). I'd get that too.
Top down:
-skip it, too rusty.
- skip it; screwed up toe
- I'd buy it if the price was acceptable and it looked decent/scales ok. Would take some work to hone it back to good steel, but otherwise a decent razor.
- I'd get it
- iffy...probably skip it
- id get it (I like boston)
- Skip it. Take a bit to get out the frown, not worth my effort. Cute that it has dubl duck scales on that razor.
- skip it. I don't go for those scales nor the guard thing
- if that blade is not cracked, it looks cool (rattler? Not sure). I'd get that too.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I see some interesting scales there. But the razors themselves are mostly junk to me. A couple there I might get if I could get them for $10 or less. The Winchester, maybe, and the one with Boston, MA stamped on the tang. That is not to say that is what they are "worth", just what I myself might pay for them unless closer inspection revealed dealbreaking flaws. Of course I won't consider a cracked blade or most very badly chipped blades. No matter how "rare" a razor is, if it is junk, it is junk. If it is unusable, then it is no good. Even if you don't shave with a straight, why collect broken razors when you can collect unbroken ones? The ones I might want just for the scales, I would probably go a couple of bucks for.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys. How can I learn more about straights and what to look for exactly?
Search and read the posts, check out the wiki too. Generally speaking, the condition of the edge and spine are the biggest things to look at and quite often where many razors will be disqualified from consideration. Rust and physical blade damage are the worst killers of razors. Excessive hone wear can be detrimental too.
In the vintage razor world, there were 100s of thousands of razors produced over the years. A razor that's broken up, hone worn, chipped all over or rusted out isn't often worth fooling with when you can find another one in much better condition very quickly. If you want to learn more about straights, pick up a good shave ready razor and use it. Learn to shave, learn to strop, learn to do a touch up honing. You can work your way up from there.
In the vintage razor world, there were 100s of thousands of razors produced over the years. A razor that's broken up, hone worn, chipped all over or rusted out isn't often worth fooling with when you can find another one in much better condition very quickly. If you want to learn more about straights, pick up a good shave ready razor and use it. Learn to shave, learn to strop, learn to do a touch up honing. You can work your way up from there.
Slash's got it right. What are they worth to *you* is the question. he says 10 bucks, I'd say "less than 20 or so", ebay might say different, depends on my mood, whether I like the shop / shop owner, whether I like the atmosphere, that kind of thing. If I'm in an antique store and I want to come back to it in a few months as an antique store and not some strip mall restaurant, I don't bargain much, if any, as long as it's not stupid. In general, I don't pay more than $25 for a vintage razor. You don't have any "holy cow, look at that $5,000 diamond in the rough" kind of thing there.
To answer your question, check out the wiki's (top of the banner):
http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Interactive_Guide_to_Straight_Razor_Shaving
a new sticky just got started over here (top of the straight razor general talk page):
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/353097-Looking-To-Buy-a-Flea-Market-Razor-Look-Here!
You might enjoy those.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Hang out here! You will learn a lot.
Basically, avoid cracked blades. Generally they will be unsalvageable. Sometimes you can cut a razor down into a shorty, though. Chips can be okay if they are small. If you can still have a decent blade width after grinding out the chips, then if you don't mind putting in the work, and the price is right, then it is something to consider. Very heavy rust and pitting are generally a dealbreaker, especially near the edge. A "frowning" edge is one that is curved so that with the spine up, the curve is in the shape of a frown. This is bad but can be fixed by simply honing until the frown is gone, typically using breadknifing to do the heavy work. A "smiling" razor can be "fixed", or left as a smiley, which many shavers prefer. Lots of razors were made to have a smiling edge. Some razors have a taper honed into them and can be made to shave as is, or fixed with difficulty. Some razors are so worn that the blade is only half as wide as when it was new and the grind has gone from hollowground to a wedge. Often these can be fixed and prove to be great shavers, especially for getting under the nose. Avoid any new razor made in Pakistan, and in fact, most any new razor being sold for under $50 with one exception, the Gold Dollar razors from China, which can be made into excellent shavers with some work.
If undamaged, most vintage American, English, Swedish, German, French, and Japanese razors you run across will be good quality. There are soviet era Russian razors that are excellent, too, though I hear they also made some pretty crappy ones, too. I have a Russian razor that I really like.
A painless way to get your first straight razor for cheap would be to visit Larry at www.whippeddog.com. The BST forum also sometimes has some good deals but they go quick if priced to sell. Most razors are NOT sold shave-ready and must be honed by someone who knows how to do it. Trying to learn to hone and learn to shave at the same time is a recipe for disaster or at least severe frustration. Larry hones his razors, and many BST offerings will be shave-ready. If you want to spend more bucks and get a new razor, I might suggest Jarrod at www.thesuperiorshave.com. He hones the razors he sells.
The fixer-upper razors are not good for your first forays into straight shaving, I might add. The work involved is, well, involved, and you will be severely handicapping your learning efforts, trying to shave with a razor that you fixed up yourself and can't possibly know if it is shave ready or not. (probably won't be!) Larry specializes in recycling old vintage blades specifically for the newbie. The price is right and while they might not be pretty, they will shave, if you do your part. Great way to get started.
If you want to start straight shaving, you will also need a strop. And of course a brush, a mug or bowl or scuttle, and cream or soap. Additionally you will probably want a pasted balsa strop for edge maintenance.
Basically, avoid cracked blades. Generally they will be unsalvageable. Sometimes you can cut a razor down into a shorty, though. Chips can be okay if they are small. If you can still have a decent blade width after grinding out the chips, then if you don't mind putting in the work, and the price is right, then it is something to consider. Very heavy rust and pitting are generally a dealbreaker, especially near the edge. A "frowning" edge is one that is curved so that with the spine up, the curve is in the shape of a frown. This is bad but can be fixed by simply honing until the frown is gone, typically using breadknifing to do the heavy work. A "smiling" razor can be "fixed", or left as a smiley, which many shavers prefer. Lots of razors were made to have a smiling edge. Some razors have a taper honed into them and can be made to shave as is, or fixed with difficulty. Some razors are so worn that the blade is only half as wide as when it was new and the grind has gone from hollowground to a wedge. Often these can be fixed and prove to be great shavers, especially for getting under the nose. Avoid any new razor made in Pakistan, and in fact, most any new razor being sold for under $50 with one exception, the Gold Dollar razors from China, which can be made into excellent shavers with some work.
If undamaged, most vintage American, English, Swedish, German, French, and Japanese razors you run across will be good quality. There are soviet era Russian razors that are excellent, too, though I hear they also made some pretty crappy ones, too. I have a Russian razor that I really like.
A painless way to get your first straight razor for cheap would be to visit Larry at www.whippeddog.com. The BST forum also sometimes has some good deals but they go quick if priced to sell. Most razors are NOT sold shave-ready and must be honed by someone who knows how to do it. Trying to learn to hone and learn to shave at the same time is a recipe for disaster or at least severe frustration. Larry hones his razors, and many BST offerings will be shave-ready. If you want to spend more bucks and get a new razor, I might suggest Jarrod at www.thesuperiorshave.com. He hones the razors he sells.
The fixer-upper razors are not good for your first forays into straight shaving, I might add. The work involved is, well, involved, and you will be severely handicapping your learning efforts, trying to shave with a razor that you fixed up yourself and can't possibly know if it is shave ready or not. (probably won't be!) Larry specializes in recycling old vintage blades specifically for the newbie. The price is right and while they might not be pretty, they will shave, if you do your part. Great way to get started.
If you want to start straight shaving, you will also need a strop. And of course a brush, a mug or bowl or scuttle, and cream or soap. Additionally you will probably want a pasted balsa strop for edge maintenance.
in the right picture, there are two blades worth buying:
1. The first one that has etching on the face of the blade stating: "Real German Hollow Trademark Ground Razor"
2. The last one that says "Queen Cutter."
If both of these were restored well using their original scales, I guarantee each of those would fetch $100 or more in a BIN Ebay listing.
1. The first one that has etching on the face of the blade stating: "Real German Hollow Trademark Ground Razor"
2. The last one that says "Queen Cutter."
If both of these were restored well using their original scales, I guarantee each of those would fetch $100 or more in a BIN Ebay listing.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks again fellas. I have a wostenholm pipe coming my way after getting honed by glen @ the shave den along with a bench strop.
I have the b&b essentials brush, mwf and some other products on the way such as a semogue 620 and omega mighty midget. I love face latherers... ESP boars
tabac and mikes samples too
Once I get my straight ill be able to figure out what's important and what's not. Ill refer back to this post on the reg
I have the b&b essentials brush, mwf and some other products on the way such as a semogue 620 and omega mighty midget. I love face latherers... ESP boars
tabac and mikes samples tooOnce I get my straight ill be able to figure out what's important and what's not. Ill refer back to this post on the reg
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
The Queen Cutter does look nice, except it kinda looks like it is badly cracked, to me. Maybe. Hard to tell. I like it, otherwise, and if it is not cracked. The heron scales look cool. I would sure like to know who made it. Definitely not Boker.
This.
If you want to appraise them yourself you can search ebay for them. Check the "completed listings" box.
You could try to polish up the queen cutter and the trade-mark, but unless you are very good at restoring antique razors, you will probably do more harm than good.
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