I have tried to use my Boker but instead of my Shavette, but no matter what I do, I cant seem to scrape the hair off with the same ease and efficiency as my Parker. I have tried various angles of the blade, the grain, diffrent amounts of pressure, everything. Im having it sent off to be honed. again. A gentleman from either here or SRP did it for me. I guess not every honer can shape a blade for every face. He sharpened it for free, so I cant complain really. Im sending it to whippeddog to get new scales and and an edge hoping that will help. My question is this: What exactly is the difference in shave technique between a true straight and a shavette?
question on straight vs shavette
- Thread starter Debay
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I've never had a Shavette but that's something that looks like a straight edge but that has a replaceable blade right?
If so I would imagine that has more in common with a DE than a straight so the same advise would apply as that given to someone switching from DE to straight. Use a little more pressure or more decisive strokes and don't expect it to be quite as sharp as a replaceable blade.
You need to keep the skin stretched, the spine close to the face and use decisive strokes.
If so I would imagine that has more in common with a DE than a straight so the same advise would apply as that given to someone switching from DE to straight. Use a little more pressure or more decisive strokes and don't expect it to be quite as sharp as a replaceable blade.
You need to keep the skin stretched, the spine close to the face and use decisive strokes.
check this thread out:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...raight-dilemma-wish-I-never-tried-the-feather
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...raight-dilemma-wish-I-never-tried-the-feather
The biggest thing is that no regular straight is going to be as sharp as the disposable blade in your shavette. That's it, the blade in your disposable is just sharper, hence a smoother shave.
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Well, Knowing that I need to apply a bit more pressure, that the stroke has to be a bit more purposeful, and that replacement blades will always be sharper, I have some ground to look at. I also didnt realize the spine needed to be so close to the skin. Ive seen many videos where shavers have had the blade at much steeper than 45 degrees in areas where a shallow angle would work. Its a process. I just need to keep going.
Please don't apply pressure!
Let the weight of your straight do the work. and definitely be decisive with your strokes.
The same principles apply, keep the spine reasonably close to start with until you find the sweet spot.
Larry should put a great edge on that blade.
Let the weight of your straight do the work. and definitely be decisive with your strokes.
The same principles apply, keep the spine reasonably close to start with until you find the sweet spot.
Larry should put a great edge on that blade.
Agreed, with a caveat. Do not apply pressure toward your face! You can apply forward pressure or momentum in the direction you're shaving. (i.e. parallel to your skin, not perpendicular to it) If you apply pressure toward the skin, you WILL cut yourself. Also, hesitation can cause cuts, too. Make sure the blade is moving a bit before you touch your face. I've had a couple of minor cuts because I touched the blade to my face and didn't move it. I'm sure this same idea applies to the shavette.
I also disagree that straights can't be as sharp as a replaceable blade. Those blades are ground to a certain bevel angle, too. And while they are certainly very sharp, it's the keenness of the edge that counts. A rough grind, even with a very shallow-angle bevel, with not give you a good shave. Someone who's a master at sharpening straights (and there are several around here, like Doc and Seraphim) can definitely get a super-sharp edge on a straight that could rival any manufactured blade. The bevel may not be as narrow, but that super-keen edge will slice like no one's business!
Now... if I could only sharpen as well as those two guys! Gotta practice...
2 different beasts entirely a straight is much more forgiving
I use both on a regular basis, my Parker Shavette and a Vintage Straight from Whipped Dog. I don't use a different technique for either, but I do use more care when using my Shavette. It is lighter and sharper than the straight, so you do need to apply a bit of pressure to move the blade down your skin (not into your skin). I also find that any slight error will result in a minor nick due to the sharpness of the blade.
Personally, I find the straight shave to be a tiny bit better than the shavette in terms of closeness, but the Shavette is easier since you don't have to strop.
Personally, I find the straight shave to be a tiny bit better than the shavette in terms of closeness, but the Shavette is easier since you don't have to strop.
Agree with the slight error part just got a feather artist and barely pushed a little too much and now have a nick except that though I enjoyed the shave
If your Boker, as well as any other straight, is honed to it's true potential, then it will give a shave greater than the disposable. Here's why. While the straight may not be quite as sharp as a disposable, it will still give you a very close yet very smooth shave. A disposable may be a little sharper, but it is also prone to cutting you more. If I had a choice, which I do, I would take a straight over a disposable any day of the week. I currently have 6 straights, and learned how to hone. If a blade is not honed to it's full potential then it won't give that close shave. If it is, then there's nothing better. If you hadn't already sent it out to be honed I would offer to hone it for you. To answer your question, there is no difference in technique.
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