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Question about Schick Injector Type B2

I recently bought a Schick B2 off eBay and, unfortunately, I think it is out of commission. I am unsure how you load a blade into it, but my presumption is that you (somehow) load blades into the handle, then push the square button on the bottom of the handle to load blades while it is in the folded position. Can anyone confirm that? Sadly, there is a blade stuck in the "chamber" - see second photo - and I have been unable to get it out. If anyone has any experience with this model and can offer any advice I would appreciate it. Otherwise, it may make a nice paperweight.

Thanks.
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I don't know how different they are, but on the C-type injector, you have to pull out part of the bottom of the handle to load blades into the razor and pull out another part to load the blade into the head of the razor.
 

garyg

B&B membership has its percs
Michael, I have the instructions here - Can you get the errant blade out with some pliers? You don't need the old "Clip" but you do need the "carrier" shown in the last photo ..
 
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Thank you, Mark and Gary. The model I have is different than pictured in the instructions - apparently I have the complicated, not simplified version! - but I was able to get the errant blade out with some pliers. I really like the weight of this razor, but I am curious how it will shave. (The head angle is certainly going to be different than the Schick adjustable I bought from you, Gary.) I guess I will find out soon.

Thank you again!!! :thumbup1:
 

garyg

B&B membership has its percs
Whoops, hard to tell the difference in the model from the pictures, although you did say Type B. My bad .. hopefully the design is at least similar & you get a good shave. Mine does ok :)
 
Michael,

The item you show circled may actually be the tongue of the plunger (for lack of a better word), which sticks out slightly through the blade loading slot when the plunger assembly is all the way in. But, you say you removed it...was it actually a blade?

I have two of these Type Bs, but have yet to load a blade into them. It loads slightly differently than the Type A, which I have used. With the Type A, I have had success pulling the plunger assembly all the way out, removing the spring, placing a single blade in the tray, replacing the spring, and then pushing the plunger back in.

When you pull the end cap (plunger assembly) away from the razor body, does the square "button" & spring travel with it, or do they remain in place, lodged in the razor body? One of my Type Bs has this problem, where I can't remove the spring without sliding a paperclip underneath it to disengage it from the razor body. With the other one, the spring slides out with the plunger, and then pops out the back when the plunger is pushed back in.

Does any of the above make sense?

I will try loading a blade into one of mine tomorrow and get back to you, if that would be helpful. Let me know.
 

garyg

B&B membership has its percs
Gary, thank you for posting the instructions and rendered so beautifully. Do you think currently manufactured blades will fit into the magazine?

Joe - the picture shows modern injectors loaded in the tray. The old blades (at least the few that came with my razor) were solid, no holes as those shown .. I have loaded & shaved with it.
 
OK...I took some photos earlier today. Let's see if these are any help. I've attempted to illustrate the process I use in a step-by-step fashion, using my lovely frankenrepeater :lol:.
The first photo shows the razor in closed position, with the empty blade cartridge alongside. I've found that using this cartridge with new blades only jams the spring inside the razor, for some reason. So, I recommend simply loading your new blades singly into the blade chamber, and ignoring the cartridge.
Grab the end of the razor like this, to pull out the plunger:
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As you pull out the plunger, the spring should slide out within it:
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After the plunger reaches the fully-extended position, push it back into the razor body. The spring should catch and resist sliding back into place, popping out the end of the plunger instead:
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The spring should then completely exit through the end of the plunger:
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Here are all the components, once separated:
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With the spring removed, and the patent markings on the neck facing up (as in previous photos), load a single blade into the empty end of the plunger's blade tray. Be sure that the business end of the blade is facing the same direction as the comb on the razor head:
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Tilt the razor body so that the blade slides all the way in. Then re-insert the spring fully, being careful of the orientation. The spring should click into place.
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Turn the razor over. Be sure that the pivoting head is aligned with the razor body. Slide the plunger back out. The spring should stay in place this time:
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With the plunger fully extended, the spring will push the blade into the space formerly occupied by the plunger blade tray. As you push the plunger back in (slowly), the blade will emerge from a slot and slide into place in the head:
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When the blade is fully inserted, you may need to adjust its position slightly, to set it back in the head evenly. If so, I recommend using the point of a safety pin to manipulate the blade by touching the chamfered ends of the blade. Of course, be careful not to touch the cutting edge!
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Pivot the head to be perpendicular to the razor body. It should now be shave-ready! :w00t:
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I hope this is helpful!
 
You may find that your razor's spring may be locked in place, and that it refuses to travel with the plunger when you pull the plunger out. This may be because there is an empty blade cartridge sitting inside. This was the case for one razor that I bought off the 'bay.

It will look like this, sitting locked in the blade tray (shown here with plunger only partially pulled out):
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If this is the case, never try to force the spring out by means of leverage or other exertion. These springs hold fast. You will only risk marring the surface of the spring end.

Your best bet is to insert the end of a paperclip between the end of the spring and the slot in the razor body where it travels, like so:
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If you feed enough length of straightened paperclip into this slot, you will eventually disengage the clip on the spring that is holding it in place. This should require about 1.5" of paperclip insertion.

Be careful to avoid damage to the finish.
 
Mine is a type c3 that has a blade stuck at the slit/opening just before the pivoting shaving head. The blade does not protrude out of the slit and the ejection bar/plunger is stuck in the pulled out position, ready to push the blade out. Because the plunger is out, I cannot open the little door where you load the razor cartridge so I can't remove the offending razor. I will confess thatthe stuck blade is a cut-down Feather & not a Schick. My guess is that the end of the blade lies just below the ejection slit and is pinned between the slit and the end of the plunger/injector bar. First, I have removed the pivoting head to give free access to the slit. Then, I am going to get some automotive "feelers" and insert one of them into the slit to force the errant blade below the ejection slit and "fool" the ejection bar into thinking the feeler is actually a blade! Next, I'll try to push the automotive feeler out with the ejection bar and once the bar is fully inside the body of the C3 razor, I will see if I can open the blade loading door to extract the offending blade. If this toy hadn't given such a great shave, I'd trash it! Caveat: Only use standard Schick injector blades with this razor. Tolerances appear to be too tight for anything else.
 
Follow up: I was able to dislodge the errant blade with an automotive feeler. The problem was not that it was a feather blade but that my c3 has no spring to keep blades tightly against the plunger! It would be like having a schick injector pack with no metal spring to hold the blades against the injector mechanism! The blade had slipped sideways and jammed inside the C3. I'm going to make a flat brass spring to fit inside the cartridge so the blades will stay gently flush against the plunger. Will reduce the cartridge capacity slightly but should work.
 
Final follow up: putting a blade spring into the bottom of the cartridge works perfectly to keep the blades at the top of the cartridge where the slider reliably pushes out a new blade as needed. Maybe there was such a spring in the original razor. Looks like this c3 will see frequent use for a long time !
 
Okay I really like these little shavers; they are really cool! Does anyone know where I can pick up the original Model A repeater?
Thanks!
 
I never understood why this razor, especially the simplified C, was not successful. Imagine carrying a razor in your pocket, no larger than a very short pen, with 20 blades contained within. A salesman could go for months before having to worry about new blades.
 
I never understood why this razor, especially the simplified C, was not successful. Imagine carrying a razor in your pocket, no larger than a very short pen, with 20 blades contained within. A salesman could go for months before having to worry about new blades.

From looking at diagrams of a disassembled one, my guess would be that they were just way too complicated to manufacture due to their many small parts. Turnings, stampings, assembly... they probably cost a bit to make. The injectors that followed that used the key/dispenser system were much less complicated on both the shaver and the blade box side.
 
Hey guys,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I recently acquired a Type B and for the life of me cannot get the spring / blade cartridge out. There were some blades inside that I was able to cycle through after some initial difficulty. They then cycled through easily. Initially I thought about using a hammer/screwdriver to get it out then stumbled onto this thread and tried the paperclip trick. I can't get a paperclip in to release the spring?? I hope it isn't broken. Enclosed are some photos. Thoughts?? Thanks in advance for your help.

Josh
 

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The oil must be dried out or gummed up. Usually that whole assembly comes out with the plunger on those when it is empty. I never had a completely seized one.
 
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