Is there anyone out there who is currently doing Merkur Progress modifications? I keep seeing these cool Mergress and BRW razors, but I can't find a place to buy one...
Progress Razor Modifications
- Thread starter cdhumiston
- Start date
If you already have a Progress you want modified, I think you can send it to Eric (inventor of the Mergress) directly. If you want to buy one already assembled, check http://www.leesrazors.com/. Good luck!
I personally prefer the balance and head heavyness of an unmodified progress. I have the long handled version. I actually like the look of the plastic knob and there is never an issue of the knob wearing out before the razor.
Last edited:
Eric does an exceptional job modifying the Merkur Progress.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the info, I'll shoot him a message.
Good luck!
I also like the Progress as is, never had an issue.
$40 to $50 more is an expensive cosmetic change I can do without.
- Thread starter
- #9
So it's strictly cosmetic, no improvement in function?
The balance of the razor is changed, which certainly can affect the function. Balance is probably the most "YMMV" variable that there is. Adding weight to either the handle or head of a razor will change the way you use the razor, hence a change in performance. But of course, Your Mileage May Vary!
It is more than cosmetic. Others may disagree, but the metal knob adds weight to the handle, giving the razor a better feel and balance.
Aside from changing the balance of the razor, there is an improved calibration theory behind the Mergess. Mergess uses Merkurs original bottom part of the razor, removes the plastic piece, and threads on the metal knob.
Bob(Bob's Razor Works) and Greg(Pureslab back then, now Ikon) made all metal knobs. The difference is they did not use any part of the progress's bottom metal piece and they didn't require your razor to be sent in. You might ask why does Eric want the whole razor sent instead of just the bottom piece. This is part of the calibration theory. I never used a Mergess nor have been able to compare on from Bob or Greg so I can't testify to this manner.
Bob made a few different styles of progress knobs. I remember he made one that kind of matched the plastic one and he also made one of his own style. His were nickel over brass and did not have numbers for the setting. Only lines. Being a full creation, Bob's knobs would not stay in the razor because of the lack of the slip ring that is in the factory Progress. FYI that slip ring feature also keeps all of the bottom pieces in the HD and Barberpole Merkur models.
Greg's knobs didn't last as long. He said he wanted to move on to more original works. Not modifications. Too bad. His progress knobs were stainless steel and looked a lot like the original progress knob. He had a later one of his own style as well. The first ones he made had the numbers for the settings. The later ones didn't.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks for the in depth explanation! I guess my only hope is to find one already modified or see if Eric is still doing modifications...or as some have suggested just use the razor as is.
Yes, the calibration of the Mergress makes it a different razor, IMO. My original Progresss improved immeasurably with the modification. I liked it so much I sent Eric another Progress XL for another modification.
+1. This is the place to go...
I wish someone would just sell the knobs, I could fit one myself, I don't need to send it overseas to get it fitted at another crazy cost.
quite like my progress the way it is, and the calibration thing is a bit silly, the number are just a guide.
quite like my progress the way it is, and the calibration thing is a bit silly, the number are just a guide.
I think the whole Progress modification thing is interesting. I got a vintage gold one that has a plastic knob, but it's Bakelite and I like it the way it is. My Progress has a story in that the original gold handle broke and the original owner sent it to Merkur to replace. However, Merkur no longer makes gold razors, so they put a chrome handle on the gold Progress making it unique. The calibration of the dot on my Progress is way off. In fact, if I want the "1" to be anywhere near the dot when I fully tighten the razor I need to insert the head opposite of what the marks tell me. Do I care? Not a bit. Every blade brand is slightly different thickness and that effects where the "1" will lend. What everyone needs to understand is that wherever the "1" does lend on the handle is your reference mark. When adjusting I just use the spot where I saw the "1" when I tightened the razor and let it out to whatever I want (usually a "3") to line up with that spot, not the dot. This calibrates ANY progress. Mine happens to fall on the ridge just to the right of the dot on the handle, so I use that. Not a big deal once you understand the system. The razor is brilliant in design and has quickly put an end to my RAD. I seriously do not even want to try another razor any more. I get perfect shaves with the Progress every time. If the blade is duller I turn it up, if the blade is sharper or my skin feels more sensitive that day I turn it down. It's like having a volume knob on your razor. Stepless adjustablility id simple genius. So don't over-think the whole calibration thing. Just tighten down all the way WITH the blade in and notice where the "1" is. That's where your dot SHOULD be. Make a mark with a sharpie or more permanently with a mark in metal on the handle and your calibration is complete. I find different blade brands will move the "1" this way or that ever so slightly. Probably due to thickness of blade material. Whatever. Just see where "1" is and that's your mark for further adjustments. Brilliant razor, awesome head design, outstanding shaver. I want to sell all my other razors and buy a backup Progress. The metal knob for the new ones may make sense since the new knobs do not have the look of the old ones. However, I think the balance of the Progress with a normal (short) handle is just about perfect, but this is a YMMV thing. Anyway, just buy a Progress and shave with it. Then if after a week of use you can part with it for even a day, send it for a modification.
- Thread starter
- #19
I ended up buying a Bob's Razor Works Bull Progress XL off someone on the board. I really love the razor, but I'm still getting used to the weight and the adjustment level that suits me.
I've seen those. Absolutely gorgeous. For adjustment level I suggest finding a "ballpark" setting and going +/- half a setting from that during the shave. Once you find the sweet spot, use it for that blade. I find different blades will take a slightly different adjustment, but are all in the "ballpark". I will also turn the razor UP when the blade gets duller, like in 4th use.
Enjoy a great razor.
Similar threads
