- Thread starter
- #121
Thanks. Interesting concept!
Phil's pipe restoration trial or "Look, another rabbit hole!"
- Thread starter luvmysuper
- Start date
I think Medico had a few of them. They also went hard in Brylon for a while.
- Thread starter
- #123
So at 6:30 this morning, I took the briar block and stem I ordered from Smokingpipes and decided to try my hand at making a functional pipe.
I decided that as a first run, I ought to try something simple and straight forward so I settled on a Poker style sitter.
I laid it out on the block and began initial cut-away using a scroll saw.
I rough sanding and shaping with a belt/disc sander, and some shaping with a dremel with various sanding attachments.
It's clear that I'm going to have to get some high speed burrs, and maybe a flexible disc sander. The shank to bowl transition is geometrically challenging.
Finished with hand sanding, and what took the longest there was sanding the stem to fit the diameter of the stummel.
Started off with 600 grit sand paper on the body, and stepped up to 800. Same on the stem.
Used the micro sanding pads up to top grit to smooth out scratches, then brought both stummel and stem to the buffing wheel with Tripoli compound.
A final waxing on a buffing wheel with Carnauba, and then a hand rubbing with nylon terrycloth.
Finished the project at 10:30, so about 4 hours from block to pipe.
I can see clearly where I went wrong, and what I need to do in the future, but overall pretty happy with the first attempt and I learned a lot for the next go-round.
Finished pipe:
I decided that as a first run, I ought to try something simple and straight forward so I settled on a Poker style sitter.
I laid it out on the block and began initial cut-away using a scroll saw.
I rough sanding and shaping with a belt/disc sander, and some shaping with a dremel with various sanding attachments.
It's clear that I'm going to have to get some high speed burrs, and maybe a flexible disc sander. The shank to bowl transition is geometrically challenging.
Finished with hand sanding, and what took the longest there was sanding the stem to fit the diameter of the stummel.
Started off with 600 grit sand paper on the body, and stepped up to 800. Same on the stem.
Used the micro sanding pads up to top grit to smooth out scratches, then brought both stummel and stem to the buffing wheel with Tripoli compound.
A final waxing on a buffing wheel with Carnauba, and then a hand rubbing with nylon terrycloth.
Finished the project at 10:30, so about 4 hours from block to pipe.
I can see clearly where I went wrong, and what I need to do in the future, but overall pretty happy with the first attempt and I learned a lot for the next go-round.
Finished pipe:
JCinPA
The Lather Maestro
Id be real happy with that as a first attempt! Awesome!
Very nice. My first and only hobby block had the same bowl to shank issues.
- Thread starter
- #126
I've seen guys using these sanding discs that are sort of like cut off wheels, so they can use the edge of the wheel to shape that shank to bowl transition, so I'll have to look at that.
I think they call them French wheels
JCinPA
The Lather Maestro
How did it smoke, Phil? I don't notice the shank/stem thing you are talking about, looks good to me!
- Thread starter
- #129
I haven't fired it up yet, sore throat this morning from too much dark weed, so I stuck with a comfortable pipe I know and some excellent Field and Stream Match.
I worked out the issue, but just mentioned it because with the tools I had, it wasn't easy. Took a lot of careful dremel disc and hand sanding.
Field and stream match is never the wrong answer!
You are on a dangerious path. I know some people who start just like you and are now making pipes (Martin Romijn and Massis).
So whats next? A lathe?
So whats next? A lathe?
- Thread starter
- #132
I already have a lathe, but it's a metal lathe.
Naw, I'm not into this for anything but the fun. Once you try to do something professionally, there are deadlines and other criteria you have to meet and it stops being fun!
If I get in a tight spot, I can just put it aside for a while or say "That's good enough".
Can't do that as a professional, and I have no desire at all to be in that spot.
- Thread starter
- #134
Interesting...
TBO I’m kinda jealous. If you look up freehand drilling (Danish method) they shape the pipe, pencil in the drill lines for chamber, airway and stem, and drill it freehand with the bits chucked into the lathe. 7:42 mark
A properly sized lathe is the most fun you can have in a woodworking shop. Pens, razor handles, spoons, bowls, repairs to furniture or gingerbread woodwork in your house. It's also calming turning wood. It doesn't have to be business.
- Thread starter
- #137
Pretty awesome.
He makes using that shaper wheel look really easy, but the truth is that likely took years of practice!
- Thread starter
- #138
Never tried turning wood on a metal lathe. Would have to rig up a hand rest and something to protect the lathe from sawdust.
Sawdust is not good for a metal lathe.
AimlessWanderer
Remember to forget me!
Hand rest? Hand ground HSS tooling in your toolpost.
One right hand tool for turning and facing, and one small boring bar for the mortice and chamber flaring. Parting/grooving tool if you're trying Bulldogs and Rhodesians. Independent 4 jaw chuck required too me thinks... or a block and screw jig on the faceplate. Shop vac rigged up as extractor? You should be up and running by lunchtime
- Thread starter
- #140
I have some really really nice hand chisels for wood turning from the late 50's or early 60's I have not used, so a hand rest is a must!Hand rest? Hand ground HSS tooling in your toolpost.
You should be up and running by lunchtime
