Pea Coats?

[Walker]

I just bought one. What is everyones thoughts on these? Are they more for dress or casual? Everytime i see one being used it usually involves blue jeans. Can you use these as a dress coat as well?

 

[luvmysuper]

Depends on the coat itself.
There are a wide variety of styles that fit into the pea coat category.
The Navy Style Pea Coat was designed to be worn with the dress uniform, not the working uniform (which was jeans and chambray).
There really isn't much difference between one of those and a nice Ralph Lauren wool overcoat.
I have seen "pea coats" that due to cut and fabric, just wouldn't look right with anything other than casual.

 

[Loric]

My pea coat is capsule, the cut is a bit more modern than I would use for something dressy. I did pick it out for that reason though, I wanted casual but not dressed down.

 

[Walker]

Thats what i'm thinking guys. It's a waist length coat, kinda looks like the old Navy Pea coats Phil. It's made by Chaps which is actually Ralph Lauren and i can't see this coat being worn with dress clothes. I just wanted to make sure because my fashion sense isn't all that great.

 

[Ethan.Bassist.]

I have a Kenneth Cole pea coat. I don't think I've ever tried to wear it with anything nice (like slacks/dress shirt). I usually just wear it with my skinny jeans Underneath the coat I wear a ribbed zip-up sweater and a scarf. And leather gloves. Makes me feel like one of the Boondock Saints

 

[weenerdog3443]

I have a couple I wear. I have my dress one from when I was going to the merchant marine acadamy and I have a couple casual ones.

 

[SRock]

I have a Kenneth Cole as well. It is a very dark Charcoal color. It looks great with anything. Tattered jeans, nice clean dark jeans, dress pants etc.

I can wear a plain T-shirt and jeans and look better than average or a shirt and tie with dress pants and both look great.

I think as others have mentioned it really depends on the cut, color and fit of your peacoat as to whether or not it will work for both dress and casual.

 

[David in Boston]

Bought one at an Army/Navy store last year.

Love it!

You guys may find this interesting.

http://www.sterlingwear.com/cart/index.php?p=home

 

[Austin]

I have one from London Fog. I wear it with casual dress.

 

[Crixus]

My initial issue navy blue/blackish wool peacoat was meant to be worn with my initial issue wool navy blue/blackish dress and undress crackerjack bells and jumper. Pretty classic in my book. However, when worn away from the ship with jeans and a sweater and an old Greek fisherman's cap, you were ready for bear.

A geat peacoat can be worn up or down--nicely dressed casual or slumming man about town.

 

[cthip]

good timing--i'm in the market for my first peacoat. saw one of the sterlingwear versions mentioned above at my local military surplus store. i think it was one of the 80% wool models and to be honest--i wasn't very impressed. i would hope and expect that the 100% wool versions are nicer.

did a little more research and found this thread incredibly helpful

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING

in short--prior to 1980 naval peacoats were made from a different type of wool called kersey (the current stuff is called melton). the two wools should be similar in warmth, but kersey was denser, heavier, and smoother. this should make it more windproof, less fuzzy/itchy, and give a dressier appearance. prior to 1968 the pockets had corduroy lining.

vintagetrends.com has a decent selection, and i've found quite a few for really cheap on ebay. with any luck i'll have one within a couple of days. . .

 

[Crixus]

i would hope and expect that the 100% wool versions are nicer

in short--prior to 1980 naval peacoats were made from a different type of wool called kersey (the current stuff is called melton). kersey was denser, heavier, and smoother

cthip, good link. The peacoat I was issued was 100% wool kersey and just about identical to the one I have posted below. This is a very classic look. A year or two after I was issued mine, the Navy changed over to the pewter-style button as part of the whole naval uniform "modernization" movement pushed by I believe the CNO Admiral Elmo Zumwalt.

The black plastic buttons are by far the more classic look, as evidenced by the Navy's return to them. The metal buttons had the impression of high school marching band when worn by the enlisted men.

I agree with the assessment that the 100% wool peacoat is worth the search--but then I'm a pure wool freak so my preferences are highly biased. I personally don't buy items from companies like Woolrich that use 15% or 20% nylon with their wool.

I hope the coat you have coming works out for you.

 

[Crixus]

I forgot to post the picture.

 

[Thebigspendur]

I was in the Navy in the 1970s and the Pea Coats issued then were Melton Cloth and they were not very warm. In a wind the wind would cut right through it. The "real" Pea coats were issued during WWll and before and they were made from a very heavy wool material called pilot cloth which is where the "P" comes from. The navy stopped issuing those after WWll in favor of the one I was issued in the early 70s because of cost.

 

[cthip]

cthip, good link. The peacoat I was issued was 100% wool kersey and just about identical to the one I have posted below. This is a very classic look. A year or two after I was issued mine, the Navy changed over to the pewter-style button as part of the whole naval uniform "modernization" movement pushed by I believe the CNO Admiral Elmo Zumwalt.

The black plastic buttons are by far the more classic look, as evidenced by the Navy's return to them. The metal buttons had the impression of high school marching band when worn by the enlisted men.

I agree with the assessment that the 100% wool peacoat is worth the search--but then I'm a pure wool freak so my preferences are highly biased. I personally don't buy items from companies like Woolrich that use 15% or 20% nylon with their wool.

I hope the coat you have coming works out for you.

I was in the Navy in the 1970s and the Pea Coats issued then were Melton Cloth and they were not very warm. In a wind the wind would cut right through it. The "real" Pea coats were issued during WWll and before and they were made from a very heavy wool material called pilot cloth which is where the "P" comes from. The navy stopped issuing those after WWll in favor of the one I was issued in the early 70s because of cost.

thanks for the tips guys. vintagetrends.com has most vietnam-era stuff, but the the coats i'm bidding on from ebay are wwii vintage with the dense wool, plastic butons, and corduroy pockets. i'm guessing that "pilot cloth" and "kersey" are two different names for the same thing. it's possible that i've gotten the timing of the transition to melton cloth wrong--did it coincide with the switch to pewter buttons?

i find it mind-boggling that current mass production (and substantially lower quality) pea coats are $200-$500 at the mall but you can get the high-quality vintage coats for $50-$100 shipped pretty easily

 

[rummwa]

I remember when I was a wee one they were all the rage and I wore them all the time. It has been years since then (47 to be exact), but I have always liked the style.

 

[luvmysuper]

A really nice version of the Pea Coat is the Navy Officer Bridge Coat. Same basic design, but longer and more buttons.
Nice split in the back hem for walking or sitting comfort.
They look pretty good with the gold buttons replaced with traditional black round anchor embossed buttons.

 

[Crixus]

They look pretty good with the gold buttons replaced with traditional black round anchor embossed buttons.

+1

The gold looks good as part of the uniform, but otherwise it's just too nautical for casual wear.

 

[Walker]

A really nice version of the Pea Coat is the Navy Officer Bridge Coat. Same basic design, but longer and more buttons.
Nice split in the back hem for walking or sitting comfort.
They look pretty good with the gold buttons replaced with traditional black round anchor embossed buttons.

That is a great looking coat, Phil

 

[Walker]

I tried taking a picture of mine but i can't get the lighting right and it's raining outside so i found what it looks like on a website.


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