Oil, light vs heavy

[Wid]

When using oil for a medium what effects does the different weights of the oil provide? Does one give a keener edge? So far I've use baby oil and Clenzoil (a light gun oil) and really can't say I noticed a huge difference. The light oil felt better on the stone to me. This being used on a translucent black Arkansas stone.

Any oter suggestions on what oil(s) to try.

 

[Gamma]

I found that heavy oil impeded my efforts on an Ark - I gave up on oil a long time ago, but when I did use mineral oil, the common stuff from the big-box pharmacies was too thick/heavy. Tree-Spirit is a higher vis mineral oil that worked fine.
Personally - I see no point in using oil on a dense Trans Ark - water with soap or glycerine will produce the same results. Getting the glide right takes some practice, but IMO it has the same effect as oil on those harder stones. On a softer ark, the oil impregnates the stone and it helps to keep it from loading, as well as providing cushion and glide.
You don't want too much cushion though.

 

[superbleu]

where is alfredo when you need him?

 

[Alum of Potash]

I've used Dan's honing oil and the old timers' recommendation of one-to-one mineral oil and kerosene. Both seem identical, IMO, and a bit lighter than USP mineral oil by itself; a few drops placed on the surface, then smeared across with the forefinger, and you're good to go. No spillover on the sides whatsoever, so it actually can be less messy than creating a slurry with a water-stone. Even SWMBO agrees with me here! Haven't really analyzed the heaviness factor though--I'm just going by what the old-timers said--but what I like about this particular oil mixture is that there is a certain "cushion" from the oil protecting the blade from rolling on the stone's surface, while at the same time, there is a certain "heaviness" from the oil that keeps the blade in contact with the stone. For a real comparison, I suppose you could vary the proportions between the two.

 

[Obiwan]

where is alfredo when you need him?

Probably out getting banned from some other forum for using the "O" word again.

 

[fccexpert]

With respect to oils, terms like light, medium and heavy are subjective. I don't actually use oil when I hone my razors (I use a water stone), but I do use a translucent Arkansas stone for all of my knives. For this I use food grade white oil (also sold in many places as honing oil). This is a fairly light (i.e. low density), highly refined (hydrogenated) mineral oil and as the name implies it is water white in colorl. It similar to baby oil, but does not contain any fragrance.

I also do not use straight gun oil much anymore, having replaced it with CLP for most applications, but I still have a small bottle of Remoil down on my bench. It is heavier than food grade white oil and is not water white. It would probably work fine for honing, but since many of my knives are used for culinary purposes, I will stick with the food grade material.

 

[AverageJoe]

Can't help, sorry! I use ceramic stones either dry or with water. Love 'em! Strop on a newspaper 'strop' for a final polish. Quick, simple, cheap, effective.

 

[YetiDave]

I'd love to know exactly how oil makes a difference, I tend to use oil on one of my stones (just groundnut or olive oil and make sure to wash it off afterwards) and I get some great results

 

[Raithskar]

I have used oil on my coticules. On my hard fast cotis I used Norton sharpening oil. I got mine at home depot.

On softer stones such as La Grise I used Mineral Oil. both gave great results.

On your Arkie I would recommend a light oil such as the norton, or the Smith's honing solution (not petroleum based). The Smith's solution calims to lift particles and clean the stone as well.

Hope this helps

 

[Doc226]

How did I miss this thread?

I have only used mineral (baby oil) and camellia oil on coticules, no real difference. I use mineral oil as its much cheaper, smells great and really available.

I have yet to try it on JNAT-some day.