How many strokes do I need to use on my naniwa 12k
Naniwa 12
- Thread starter Tylerbrycen
- Start date
It's done when it's done friend. Are you touching up or finishing?
- Thread starter
- #3
Finishing. Well I've heard just 15 to 20 x strokes are all u need
I did way more than that when I used mine. Try what you heard, shave, then try something different and see. Nothing is universal in this hobby.
Don't get hung up on a certain number, learn to feel what your razor is doing on the hones and what that tells you about when to switch stones or when you're finished.
- Thread starter
- #7
I'll try tomorrow and figure out where to go from there
- Thread starter
- #9
Thank u so much that helps a bunch
Hone until the edge slips under the water on the hone's surface instead of pushing the water ahead. Once the entire edge slips under, typically 20-30 laps if you've used the earlier hones well, 10 more laps and move onto your next hone.
This is useful. However, what if after 30 laps the edge does not undercut the water? Should I continue on the 12k, or move back to a lower grit? In general, do you look for that undercut on every stone prior to moving up? Just to clarify, I'm talking about touching up a blade previously honed by a pro. Thanks.
The problem with touching up a blade previously honed by a pro is you don't know what angle he used.
Did he use tape? Did he use 2 layers? 3? 4? Did he use pressure?
If the "pro" (using the term lightly, all of my straights were "pro" worked and IMHO only two of the 5 were worth a crap) used tape, then if you don't, or if you don't use the same thickness, then you aren't even going to touch the cutting edge... you'll be working the back edge of his bevel.
IMHO, every hone job, even one that I've done where I know that I did not use tape, begin on the DMT-1000 with a bevel reset. No, I don't "breadknife" the edge... I simply start on the DMT1000 and work my progression from there... Norton 4k, Norton 8k, Naniwa 12k, C-Nat (12k but seems much finer), linen pasted with .5um CrOX, and finally leather.
Nightly (I shave before bed) routine after my shave is 15-25 laps on linen followed by 30-50 laps on leather.
When that doesn't maintain the edge, it's time to go back to the hones.
Did he use tape? Did he use 2 layers? 3? 4? Did he use pressure?
If the "pro" (using the term lightly, all of my straights were "pro" worked and IMHO only two of the 5 were worth a crap) used tape, then if you don't, or if you don't use the same thickness, then you aren't even going to touch the cutting edge... you'll be working the back edge of his bevel.
IMHO, every hone job, even one that I've done where I know that I did not use tape, begin on the DMT-1000 with a bevel reset. No, I don't "breadknife" the edge... I simply start on the DMT1000 and work my progression from there... Norton 4k, Norton 8k, Naniwa 12k, C-Nat (12k but seems much finer), linen pasted with .5um CrOX, and finally leather.
Nightly (I shave before bed) routine after my shave is 15-25 laps on linen followed by 30-50 laps on leather.
When that doesn't maintain the edge, it's time to go back to the hones.
Well you've got to be sure the bevel is well set. Start on your bevel setter and stay there until the entire edge passes the TNT convincingly. No cheating - either it clearly passes or it doesn't. Once it is set, you can observe how the water and edge interact to gauge the edge's progress. It is a pretty reliable but you'll want to pay attention how the razor feels on the hone as well as TPTesting it before and after each hone. That way you'll develop direct methods to assess the edge.
So the answer depends. Generally speaking, with the synthetics I've used 20-30 laps suffices. Sometimes it hasn't. If 40-60 doesn't do it, you probably need to step back a hone or two.
So the answer depends. Generally speaking, with the synthetics I've used 20-30 laps suffices. Sometimes it hasn't. If 40-60 doesn't do it, you probably need to step back a hone or two.
10-12 very light. Maybe 20.
Hi Tyler,
Listen, after a year of trying and experimenting with different approaches, the thing that I found is this: it depends on the steel. Some razors literally take 10 laps on the 12k and they are good to go, others I have to do the 20 circles, 20 laps routine and then they are fine. As many above you have said, you have to experiment a bit on the razor that you are honing. My motto is to start with fewer and work up from there. I have found some that really only take about 10 laps on the 12k and they are good to go.
Also, I know you and I learned from the same guy. One thing I discovered is not every technique works the same on every razor. It's up to the razor to tell you what it needs. With your beard (strictly wire from what we have discussed) it means that more touch ups are required than the normal guy. Having said that, here is what I use for that circumstance: Start after the bevel is set on the 1k (or lower) once you move to the 4k, do the circles and X strokes. After you move to the 8k forget the circles and just do some X's strokes, maybe 20 per side of the stone. Once your done with the 8k, and your ready to move to the 12, simply do 10 laps and test shave. If it needs another touch up, go back to the 8 and do 20 X's again and move back to the 12k, add 10 laps and test shave again. Follow this thru until you like what you have.
Give it a try, you won't be sorry!
TTYL man,
M
Listen, after a year of trying and experimenting with different approaches, the thing that I found is this: it depends on the steel. Some razors literally take 10 laps on the 12k and they are good to go, others I have to do the 20 circles, 20 laps routine and then they are fine. As many above you have said, you have to experiment a bit on the razor that you are honing. My motto is to start with fewer and work up from there. I have found some that really only take about 10 laps on the 12k and they are good to go.
Also, I know you and I learned from the same guy. One thing I discovered is not every technique works the same on every razor. It's up to the razor to tell you what it needs. With your beard (strictly wire from what we have discussed) it means that more touch ups are required than the normal guy. Having said that, here is what I use for that circumstance: Start after the bevel is set on the 1k (or lower) once you move to the 4k, do the circles and X strokes. After you move to the 8k forget the circles and just do some X's strokes, maybe 20 per side of the stone. Once your done with the 8k, and your ready to move to the 12, simply do 10 laps and test shave. If it needs another touch up, go back to the 8 and do 20 X's again and move back to the 12k, add 10 laps and test shave again. Follow this thru until you like what you have.
Give it a try, you won't be sorry!
TTYL man,
M
- Thread starter
- #16
Ill have to try that out mike thanks for the post
