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Must-Try Soaps For Experienced Shavers

This thread was inspired by the "must-try soaps for beginners" thread.

What soap have you found most rewarding once you stuck with it long enough to figure out how to get fantastic lather out of it? It would be great if you'd also list any technical tips you found helpful in taming the saponinic beast.

Mine is the French soap Institut Karite. Highly regarded for it's rich lather and exceptional skin care qualities - one of those "moisturizing" soaps that supposedly leaves your skin feeling better than before you shaved - I almost tossed this one twice. When I first opened it, I was hit between the eyes with Great Aunt EDT - the floral scent was sickly sweet and way too feminine for my nose. I couldn't believe all the rave reviews for this soap. I almost tossed it right then and there but since it got such phenomenal feedback on the boards - and also because it wasn't cheap - I figured I had to give it a fair shake. Well, after a couple of weeks of consistently disappointing lathers I flung the puck resentfully under the sink, intending to BST it as part of a soap lot once I had accumulated other rejects.

I eventually forgot about it until about two months later, when I had become bored of my (at that time) modest rotation. I pulled it out to give it another whirl and to see if I was able to get any better results. I immediately noticed that the scent had softened significantly into more of a light, fresh floral scent with a touch of powder mixed in. I still didn't love the scent but it didn't offend my nostrils anymore. However the lather was the same - complete garbage. I went onto B&B in search of some advice for this persistently persnickety puck and came upon a recommendation to sprinkle a few drops of hot water on the puck while showering to help soften up the extremely hard triple milled monster. I tried this and it did indeed help - a bit - I enjoyed my first decent lather from IK. However subsequent attempts were at best uneven and once again I grew frustrated with it and tossed the puck under the sink and forgot about it.

A couple of months later I came upon the tin again during a bathroom clean out and when I opened it up I saw that the top of the puck had become a bit eroded - I think from all the water I had sprinkled on it during my last attempts lathering it. I decided to toss it in the trash right then and there but before I did I was going to load my brush with it for 5 minutes if necessary to try to get one (last) massive lather from it before chucking it forever. I filled the tin with hot water, submerging the puck completely, while I showered.

When I finished my shower and went to load the soap, the top of the puck scraped off like toothpaste and I realized I had probably just done the equivalent of a mega-load with a couple of swirls of my brush. I proceeded to try to face lather the pasty mess and - lo and behold - the brush built the most incredible, thick, shiny, protective lather I had ever experienced. The lather was unbelievably cushiony and rich. If it had one drawback it was that it wasn't the slickest soap I had ever tried - it had ample slickness no doubt - but it's calling card was that it was definitely the most protective, cushioning soap I had ever encountered. It also afforded me the best shave I had ever had and indeed left my face feeling better than before I started - I haven't checked my facts on this recently but I believe it may have the highest Shea butter content of the French soaps. It was the middle of a typically dry, cold, Toronto winter and for the first time ever with a shaving soap, I felt like I hadn't sucked my skin dry shaving. Up to that point I always found my self abandoning my beloved soaps in favor of rich creams during the winter months.

And the best part of all was that I was able to reproduce that lather consistently shave after shave, from that point on.

So what's the secret to Institut Karite? Well, after using up my first puck and buying a second, I can honestly say that I think it's the Mouton Rothschild of shaving soaps. Like the fine French Bordeaux, IK benefits tremendously from some aging. It is so hard to begin with, that it needs time - and some permeating moisture - to fully open up. Aging also takes care of the pungent floral scent and turns it into one of the mildest, inoffensive light florals on the market. I find the scent intoxicating now. I even went through a phase where I kept it on my desk because I enjoyed holding it to my nostrils for a whiff while working (I'm not sure if admitting this publicly is worse than the habit itself) but I'm through this now.

Although I do feel one can get a reasonable lather from it relatively early with the warm water soak technique, I found no matter how often I did this with my second puck, it still didn't offer up the rich billowy lather that my first puck did until it too had "aged" in the tin for several months. When the puck's surface starts to get a bit dimpled - when it loses it's perfect smoothness - you're in for some very fine shaves my friends. I imagine one could accelerate this process by soaking it more often or storing it with a little water in the time but I haven't tried these techniques myself. Though I'm not a quarter through my current puck, I have a third puck in the cellar now.

So what's your Everest of shaving soaps and how did you finally make the summit?
 
Two of my soaps that fit this category are WFS and I Coloniali soap. A bit tricky to lather but great if you get the hang of it. One I'm still on the fence about is Gold Dachs. I can get good lather and all, but I think I'll have to come to the conclusion to not rebuy or even toss.
 
I just wanted to post that I really enjoye your epic tale of soap conquering. It wa a blast to read and didn't even realize how long it was until I scrolled back up! Good job!
 
Mystic Water
Mike's Natural Soaps

Tried them, firstly, as they had the most simplest ingredients and have not stopped as they are magnificent!
 
Mitchell's Wool Fat. Smells a bit like Grandma's powder puff, too, but when the lather is right, it is all-world.

I enjoyed your post, too! It'll be at least 2020 before I can try it, though...
 
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QCS, Mike's, Mystic Waters, Tabac, MWF.
I have had similar problems with the soap being too dry as the original post above. I live in Colorado and it gets desert dry here. My best tip for solving the problem is to pick a soap and use it every day. It stays hydrated that way. I can do that for several days in a row but, heck, I don't want to. I like to mix it up. The second best tip is to pick out which soap to use the night before and put a small amount of water on it (1/2 tsp?) and put the lid back on overnight. It works great the next day.
 
Arko. Yes, it smells like a 1940's laundry room but the lather is the best you will find for the price, it even beats out soaps costing five and ten times as much. It does come in stick form but is too soft to use as a stick, it works best smushed into the bottom of a large coffee mug with a large prescription bottle.

Tabac is also recommended at least once for the experience. Yes it is finicky and tends to load too thick on the brush but if you can remember to draw some water (probably about three tablespoons) into your mug (on top of the puck is fine) after loading and swirl 8-10 times in the water before lathering up your face it is the slickest lather you will ever make. Loading on the brush for 30-45 seconds and making lather in a separate bowl with a bit of water in it as some suggest may also work but I haven't tried it. I also recommend foregoing the ceramic bowl option and just using a large coffee or shaving mug, the branded ceramic bowl isn't tall enough to contain the lather you will make.
 
Arko. Yes, it smells like a 1940's laundry room but the lather is the best you will find for the price, it even beats out soaps costing five and ten times as much. It does come in stick form but is too soft to use as a stick, it works best smushed into the bottom of a large coffee mug with a large prescription bottle...

That's strange, I find Arko to be as hard as any shave stick I've used, including La Toja, Speick, Valobra. I prefer grating sticks into a tin anyway but not because they are too soft to rub directly on my face. Which shave sticks do you find harder?
 
I gotta disagree with you about Arko being to soft to use as a stick. It's perfect as a stick, can't see why anyone would want to use it any other way.

Always thought Tabac was about the easiest puck soap to get a great lather from too. Pretty much bullet proof.
 
After testing well over a hundred different soaps I can only say that of the crop currently available- its AOS hands down.
 
... Always thought Tabac was about the easiest puck soap to get a great lather from too. Pretty much bullet proof.

I agree wholeheartedly, it's very forgiving for those that might add too much water, soaks it up like a sponge. I prefer this a bit wetter than other soaps for the added slickness.

On the other hand, for me the QCS pucks took a bit of experimenting to get a consistently good lather, it's a bit finicky on how much water it wants to hold.
 
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JCinPA

The Lather Maestro
My favorite is Queen Charlotte soft soaps, although I never had any issues lathering them. I understand some do.

Another must try are the Mystic Water soaps. I had a tough time dialing them in, but they are the equal of the QCS, once you do, IMO, and I think either QCS or MW are as good as MdC when you nail them on their sweet spot.

The ingredient lists are similar and they are similar, why list both? The scent lineup is very different. I'd suggest any exerienced shave try both. Both sell samples.
 
So far, the only soap that has been inconsistent and has given me hard time to get the lather right each time was Cade. I have 15-20 soaps and creams in rotation, so I don't use each one of them that often. When I'm in mood for Cade, I still have to be careful and try to remember how to lather with it. When I get it right, it rewards me with a great shave. If it wasn't for the great scent, I doubt I'd bother playing with it. I believe it likes a very dry brush to load, and add water very slowly. It's easy to miss the point when the lather is ready and to put too much water. Also, I need to add some water to it before each pass.
 
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