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I'm back with two razors to refurb

So I'd started here a few months ago and went silent. Turns out I had a Hairyali razor and had pushed through with that, however once it got blunt(er) I just gave up until I was able to get a proper replacement.

eBay to the rescue. I've now got a Dorko Solingen with jimps, a round tip with an extra hollow but appears to be hollowed out more on one side. It's and 1/2" wide.

The second is an Alexander Beckmann with an American crest (the eagle with Latin motto). It's got a full hollow and a Spanish Point. It's 3/4" wide.

So this is partially to show off, I'm excited to get back to shaving properly but also to ask for advice. The pins on the Dorko could probably do with replacing and the scale is partially damaged so that could be done together. But other than that what things should I look out for? A sharpen and sand off any slight tarnishing? Is that all I need? Photos attached

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Do not use sandpaper, steel wool or polish on the etching on the Beckmann. You will be sanding away, things will be looking better and then, poof, the etching will vanish right before your eyes.

You can cover the etching with nail polish, let harden, and then polish the rest of the blade right over the polish. When you are done simply gently remove the nail polish with a soft cloth using acetone. You can buy a small bottle of nail polish remover/100% acetone for a few bucks at your local drugstore.

There is a tone of valuable information in this thread - peruse through the last year:

 
I'd say the Eagle Etched blade could use some hand polishing. A basic metal polish because it is an etch. Not just printed on the blade. Hand polishing the Dorko too. But the Dorko is small. Not sure I'd waste the time taking it apart and cleaning it up. Meaning to get rid of the rust in the pivot. And the edge looked bad in the pic. Not straight at all. Now if you're wanting to use it to learn how to pin and hone with it then go for it.
 
I always first spray them down with WD40 and let it sit a few minutes, especially between the scales. Wrap a paper towel around a wood coffee stir stick and remove all the gunk between the scales. Stubborn spots will come off with steel wool wrapped around the stick.

Scrub the blade clean with WD40 and 0000 steel wool, polish the blade with 0000 steel wool and any good metal polish.

Polish the scales with metal polish and paper towels.

Once clean, you can decide if further restoration work is needed. If sanding go slow start with 600 and polish with 1,000 finish with 0000 steel wool and metal polish.
 
I'd say the Eagle Etched blade could use some hand polishing. A basic metal polish because it is an etch. Not just printed on the blade. Hand polishing the Dorko too. But the Dorko is small. Not sure I'd waste the time taking it apart and cleaning it up. Meaning to get rid of the rust in the pivot. And the edge looked bad in the pic. Not straight at all. Now if you're wanting to use it to learn how to pin and hone with it then go for it.
Yea tbh I felt it with the Dorko, it was cheap. But I'm pleased with it for what I paid for it. As you suggested it will be good to practise sharpening, honing, restoration work that kinda thing on it, to improve.
 
I always first spray them down with WD40 and let it sit a few minutes, especially between the scales. Wrap a paper towel around a wood coffee stir stick and remove all the gunk between the scales. Stubborn spots will come off with steel wool wrapped around the stick.

Scrub the blade clean with WD40 and 0000 steel wool, polish the blade with 0000 steel wool and any good metal polish.

Polish the scales with metal polish and paper towels.

Once clean, you can decide if further restoration work is needed. If sanding go slow start with 600 and polish with 1,000 finish with 0000 steel wool and metal polish.
Good first steps. Tbh I don't think the Beckmann needs a lot since I've cleaned out (as your suggestion) other than a sharpen. A polish yes but otherwise really pleased thanks for the help
 
Do not use sandpaper, steel wool or polish on the etching on the Beckmann. You will be sanding away, things will be looking better and then, poof, the etching will vanish right before your eyes.

You can cover the etching with nail polish, let harden, and then polish the rest of the blade right over the polish. When you are done simply gently remove the nail polish with a soft cloth using acetone. You can buy a small bottle of nail polish remover/100% acetone for a few bucks at your local drugstore.

There is a tone of valuable information in this thread - peruse through the last year:

Really helpful particularly the nail varnish trick. I must admit there's so much info on the website it can be hard to know where to start. I do better with something to focus on start with and work through. With your suggestions I've got a place to dig into further from the thread you suggested. Does that make sense?
 
If I am going to clean a razor, I take it apart - unpin it, clean everything 100%, then repin it.
That's the only way to get all the crud out. I usually wind up wrapping w/d paper around a toothpick to clear rust out of the pivot hole, and sometimes wedges need to be scrubbed too.
Cleaning without disassembly is is like waking up and spraying on cologne without taking a shower.

Most of what you need to know is already posted in numerous places on the board and repeating it all here would be sorta redundant. You're looking for guidance, and the search function and sticky's are probably your best starting points.
Click here for a great place to start off.
There's a ton of YT videos also, very helpful to see the steps in the process while it's being discussed.
 
I agree with Gamma about cleaning. But some folks are a bit pickier than others when it comes to cleaning. I try to disinfect everything in my life. But that's just me.
In reality (so I've been told) Any germs from shaving from previous people are gone after a few days. The issue is the junk/nastiness left behind. Now we are not talking about rust. Rust is bad! Not only can it cause issues with your razor because it will grow, but it's one of the last things you would want to contaminate your strop. So always do your best to get rid of rust. A toothbrush and soap work well cleaning pivots also floss can sometimes get in deeper but your not going to get all the way into a pivot unless it's worn and loose. WD-40 will work its way into the pivot and if you work the action it will loosen up a lot of gunk. Just be careful as any lube or oil in a pivot will make a razor looser.
 
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