How to remove pins so as to change scales?

[kimfella]

I tried shaving with my Tip-Top the other day and it feels good enough to make it worthwhile to continue with the restoration. The action of the scales seemed loose when I was shaving, so I figured I should rescale it. I suppose I could just peen the pivot pin a bit, but there are other issues, not the least of which is removing the rust on the tang just near the pivot - i.e. protected by the scales.

So what it the best way to remove the pins? I'd like to save the scales. Not sure if I want to reuse them here, but eventually. I was planning on simply filing (very carefully) the pins by hand until I reach the washer. Hopefully I can do this without also filing the scales. If this is the way to go, should I file both sides, or just tap the pin out to the unfiled side? The pins are silver in colour and the washer is approximately 1/32 thick.

Also "Restoration". Does that refer just to bringing the razor back as close as possible to the condition and design as original? This Tip-Top just has the two pins, at either end. If I were to add the third pin as a tang stop, would it no longer be a restoration, but a 'modification' or something?

This razor also feels light. That may simply be my being more used to my usual "Best Brand" razor. It may be something I'd get used to after using the Tip-Top for a while. Does anyone have any opinions on whether or not I should add backing plates (thin brass) to the scales? This would add weight as well as strengthen/support the scales. I'm thinking it may also throw the balance off.

Advice? Thoughts? Opinions?
Thanks.

 

[Leche]

You should be OK with a very small file and being careful. If they are very nice or rare (like ivory or bone) I would consider letting someone experienced do it.

 

[kimfella]

I think they are 'plastic' ivory, but they might be real ivory. They are yellowish, like aged ivory, and have fine darker lines, like a grain, running the length of them. Who would know? If I took them to a local jeweler is that something he/she might know?

You're right, I wouldn't want to ruin then if they are real. If they aren't, ruining them would be an annoyance and disapointment, but not a disaster.

edit: my wife is a potter and knows many in the local artist community. She may know someone locally who works with ivory and such materials.

The middle picture is closer to the real colour.

 

[leighton]

If thats the picture of the scales, they are plastic.

You'll know real ivory when you touch it.

 

[Cedrck]

Those scales are most likely “Faux Ivory” Celluloid. I have never seen "branded" nickel silver inlay in genuine Ivory (it may exist, but I have never seen it).
Rub the scales with a polishing cloth until it gets warm and have a sniff, if you smell Camphor (moth balls) then it’s defiantly Celluloid.

Those scales are branded (the inlay) so it would be good to save them. If you are not interested in saving the lock washers, place a few layers of cellophane tape to cover the lock washer and protect the scales, then carefully file the rivet until almost flat with the scales and then tap the pin out the other end with a 1/16th pinch. Be sure to rest the razor on a block of woof of thick plastic with small hole a drilled a little larger than the lock washer at the other end, so the pin has somewhere to go as you tap it out.

If you want to save the lock washers then carefully drill the pin out with a 1/16 inch drill bit, you only need to drill out most of the mushroomed pin head in the center of the lock washer to weaken the joint, then knock out the pin with a punch as described above.

Then when you need to reassemble, you only need an easily obtainable length of 1/16th inch nickel silver rod and the saved lock washers, when done pining, it may look like the joint was never opened.

Hope this helps

 

[Ray-man]

If you don't have a 1/16" punch and have to buy a new one, make sure you sand down the outside diameter of the end just a little. A new punch will more than likely break the plastic, or celluoid, when it tries to force itself through the hole.

Just a heads up.

Ray

 

[Cedrck]

And if you don't feel like buying a new punch (or if you are like me who cannot afford one)... you can go to your nearest supermarket/pharmacy and pick up an eye-glasses repair kit, usually at the checkout counter (less than $2). It has a flat blade screwdriver that is just a bit narrower than 1/16th inch, if you blunt the bladed end will have a useful razor pin punch...

As with all tools you should wear eye protection when using a punch...

 

[kimfella]

Thanks gents, all good info. I'd like to think I would have thought to use tape on my own, but knowing from past experience, I would have thought of it AFTER I scratched the scale. Thanks for the heads up.

Somewhere I saw a suggestion to do the filing on the back scale. Mechanically, I don't think it makes any difference, but any slip of the file would scratch the least impotant scale. However, if there were to be any tearout from punching out the pin, that would be on the front scale.

On a slightly different note, 'somewhere' I saw a suggestion to tape the underside of a scale/pair of scales when drilling the pin holes (making new scales). The tape was supposed to prevent any tearout. Whenever I've been concerned with tearout I've clamped a sacrificial piece of wood there. I suspect tape would just be pushed off.

 

[Malacoda]

On a slightly different note, 'somewhere' I saw a suggestion to tape the underside of a scale/pair of scales when drilling the pin holes (making new scales). The tape was supposed to prevent any tearout. Whenever I've been concerned with tearout I've clamped a sacrificial piece of wood there. I suspect tape would just be pushed off.

You shouldn't have to drill all the way through. Once you drill away the peened (e.g. mushroomed) portion on one end of a pin - which should happen once you get past the washer and start to enter the scale - you should be able to stop drilling and then, as others have said, tap out through the blade and second scale with lit hammer taps on drift pin or jeweler's screwdriver.

In fact, if possible, you should avoid drilling deep enough to actually go into the razor or through the second scale...

You'd be surprised how many pins are actually bent so as be slightly U-shaped due to years of wear and tear - so if you drill all the way through you the bit obviously won't follow the 'U' shape of the pin and you'll end up making either the blade's pivot hole or the second scale's pin whole larger and off center - causing it to be loose and sloppy on the new pin when you reassemble.

BTW - while they take a bit more patience (5-10 minutes per pin), I've found the pen-style hand/mini drills work great. Since they're nothing more than a jewelers screw drive with a drill bit that your turning by hand, there's no risk of the bit dancing or drifting... no heat... and FAR less chance ruining a scale than using a drill press or rotary tool.

 

[kimfella]

BTW - while they take a bit more patience (5-10 minutes per pin), I've found the pen-style hand/mini drills work great. Since they're nothing more than a jewelers screw drive with a drill bit that your turning by hand, there's no risk of the bit dancing or drifting... no heat... and FAR less chance ruining a scale than using a drill press or rotary tool.

I had one similar to that, but have no idea where it is now. I think I'll try to find one locally to replace it.

Ah, here it is:



I also have (God only knows where) a mini hand crank (eggbeater) drill that I used for model-building - not good for this application. And I seem to remember a mini push-ratchet one somewhat similar to the second one here.

. I have a modern full size one (again, somewhere). Also not so good for this app.

p.s. is there some BBcode to shrink a picture on the fly? Something like [Img size=400h ] ....pic url [/ img]

 

[kimfella]

Drove all the way into Toronto to buy a pinvise there. Got home and opened the package just to be sure there were bits in the case, closed it up and put it down. Now I can't find the damn thing. Drove over to Princess Auto where I had seen pinvises earlier. None there, nobody knows anything about them.

I'll have to do another very thorough search (it is almost definitely within 15 feet of me as I type this) and if I can't find it I'll end up attacking the project with a small file.

I did find a small hammer of my brother's, the type with a split in the head - to hold a nail I think - though not a ball peen hammer. It only served to remind me I haven't seen my ball peen hammer or my tiny tack hammer in ages. Getting old sucks.