I am in the unknotting part of a couple of reknot projects, and I am finding that all the handles are hollow. Is the best way to build up a shelf for the new knot to adhere to be to mix up some epoxy and BBs to fill the space? The handles are pretty light, so I wouldn't mind adding some weight to them, I just want to make sure I am on the right track here.
how to build a shelf
- Thread starter wheelhouse
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I use cork and epoxy, it really depends on the weight you want. If you want a heavier brush, go with a heavier fill. Good luck Sir, happy restorations!
Here is the method that I find the quickest and the least messy.
This is a "copy and paste" from a previous post:
After reading many threads about filling hollow handles I tried a mixture of different methods.
1) A member suggested plumbers putty. Unfortunately I am an electrician so no plumbers material......but I had Duct Seal, a putty like substance that we use to seal the space between the wires and the inside of conduit at certain termination points. I packed about 1/4 inch in the bottom. Duct Seal is formulated to do no harm to a multiple of different different wire insulation materials; I hope it will not react to the plastic of the handle.
2) Small lead shot. 2.5mm or .09 in shot. I had a can of it that I used to cool chisel tips while sharpening them. I put in about 1 tsp on top of the Duct Seal.
3) More Duct Seal. I left just over 1 inch between the top of that layer and the opening.
4) I then put "Part 1" of BONDO Body Filler into the remaining hole until just below (3mm) the top.
5) A couple of drops of BONDO Cream Hardener, and mixed it in with a tooth pick.
It hardens in a few minutes, but I will leave it a day and then drill it out to the proper depth. A dab of epoxy to set the knot and I will be finished.
It sounds like a long involved process but it took less than 10 minutes and was a lot less messy than other methods I have used.
I failed to weigh the handle before, but a similar one weighs 31 grams. My "filled" one weighs 82.
(If you want to try Duct Seal ask any electrician; they probably have a half dozen partial packages in the bottom of their van)
This is a "copy and paste" from a previous post:
After reading many threads about filling hollow handles I tried a mixture of different methods.
1) A member suggested plumbers putty. Unfortunately I am an electrician so no plumbers material......but I had Duct Seal, a putty like substance that we use to seal the space between the wires and the inside of conduit at certain termination points. I packed about 1/4 inch in the bottom. Duct Seal is formulated to do no harm to a multiple of different different wire insulation materials; I hope it will not react to the plastic of the handle.
2) Small lead shot. 2.5mm or .09 in shot. I had a can of it that I used to cool chisel tips while sharpening them. I put in about 1 tsp on top of the Duct Seal.
3) More Duct Seal. I left just over 1 inch between the top of that layer and the opening.
4) I then put "Part 1" of BONDO Body Filler into the remaining hole until just below (3mm) the top.
5) A couple of drops of BONDO Cream Hardener, and mixed it in with a tooth pick.
It hardens in a few minutes, but I will leave it a day and then drill it out to the proper depth. A dab of epoxy to set the knot and I will be finished.
It sounds like a long involved process but it took less than 10 minutes and was a lot less messy than other methods I have used.
I failed to weigh the handle before, but a similar one weighs 31 grams. My "filled" one weighs 82.
(If you want to try Duct Seal ask any electrician; they probably have a half dozen partial packages in the bottom of their van)
I've used hot melt glue to fill.ready in minutes. Fill to desired level and voila'!
I used large nuts to get close, and poured epoxy over them to get my final height. If that was too heavy I used one or two on the bottom and sliced wine corks to get my final height, then filled with epoxy. Sometimes the cork floats, so I super glue the entire shebang together before dropping and super glue tacking it into the handle. Then pour epoxy around it until level with the top of the cork.
Epoxy itself will cure to a nice hard, level surface. Not my preferred method but there's another option for ya. Simply fill to the desired level and the allow to cure while sitting on a level surface. Then epoxy the knot to the epoxy. I've used pennies a few times and that seems to work well. Used a dime in one for a smaller knot as well. Washers work well, as does cork. Lots of options.
I agree with all of the above! 
Basically, you need to decide how high you want the shelf, how heavy you want the handle, and whether you want it bottom-heavy, top-heavy, or something in the middle. There's a wide variety of materials that can be used as fillers and/or weights. You are limited only by your imagination. As long as everything is glued securely in place, you're golden. (You don't want loose BBs rattling around like a maraca!)
Basically, you need to decide how high you want the shelf, how heavy you want the handle, and whether you want it bottom-heavy, top-heavy, or something in the middle. There's a wide variety of materials that can be used as fillers and/or weights. You are limited only by your imagination. As long as everything is glued securely in place, you're golden. (You don't want loose BBs rattling around like a maraca!)+1.
I once had a brush handle warp from the heat generated during the epoxy curing ( I filled the handle with epoxy). Now I use silicone to build the shelf, I found it just heavy enough.
That's not a bad idea! How's this for a new shaving product? Baby rattle badger brushes! A million dollar idea!
Sorry...too late!That's not a bad idea! How's this for a new shaving product? Baby rattle badger brushes! A million dollar idea!
"Snargle's Baby Rattle Badger Brush" [SUP]Patent Pending[/SUP]
I have used hot glue on a couple of brushes with success. I also tried silicone on one brush but when the brush sat in the sunlight the silicone expanded and cracked the handle. I'm guessing the silicone never cured all the way through, only the top portion that received a bit of exposure to air. Silicone may work with longer curing times and avoiding direct sunlight (such as sitting on a window sill where I store several of my brushes).
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- #13
I ended up using hot glue and BBs, worked great! Thanks for all the ideas!
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