How do I NOT Get a Close Shave?

[kurt1911]

Hi Everyone, thanks for all of the great info you've got here. As the title says, I'm looking for advice on how to NOT get too close of a shave. A little background; I've been cursed with sensitive skin and a coarse beard, mostly on the chin. Ever since my beard came in enough to be noticeable, I've struggled with ingrown hairs and irritation. I've tried cartridges, three different DE razors with various blades, straight razors, and a few different electrics. The 'best' (best as in resulting in the least irritation) results I've gotten have been from electric razors, primarily because they don't shave too close. I do still get some irritation and a few ingrown hairs if I'm not careful, but less than with other products.

Which brings me to the original question; are there any wet-shaving products available that will NOT give a super close shave, particularly in the area below the lower lip? That's the biggest trouble spot for me. If I go with the grain and come down the chin, I run into the protruding part of my chin, cut too close and get ingrown hairs. If I go up against the grain, it's easier to follow the curve of the chin, but then it cuts too close below my lip and I get ingrown hairs. I need something that will cut a bit above the skin. BBS is NOT the goal here; I could care less about smoothness, I just need to look presentable. If I weren't still in the Air Force I'd just grow a beard, sadly that's not an option yet.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. I'm considering a Parker Semi Slant, hoping that the angled blade will slide the hairs a bit easier without getting too close. My chin hair is coarse and tough enough that even a brand new Feather DE blade pulls with my Merkur DE handle.

 

[Cyyou20901]

You’re probably going to think I’m being funny. I’m not. Maybe try wet shaving the spots you can, then use the electric where you need to. Similar to my routine when I have a mustache or goatee.


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[smudge]

Rockwell 2C - a lot of people find the number 1 plate rather ineffective when it comes to getting a really close shave. Could be right up your alley.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Have a read of the first four posts of this thread...

The Wanderer's Guide To DE Shaving

Part One I was self taught with a DE razor 25 years ago, and had to figure out a lot of things the hard way. I learned a lot of things over the years, but wish there had been an experienced DE shaver who could have taught me the basics early on. This guide is offered so that you can get to...

www.badgerandblade.com

... and you'll have the necessary ingredients for tailoring your shave as you need it, and insights for addressing issues that arise. It might be that you need to change some of the things I advise, but at least you should hopefully have a better idea of what to change, and what not to.

 

[dmshaver]

Have a read of the first four posts of this thread...

The Wanderer's Guide To DE Shaving

Part One I was self taught with a DE razor 25 years ago, and had to figure out a lot of things the hard way. I learned a lot of things over the years, but wish there had been an experienced DE shaver who could have taught me the basics early on. This guide is offered so that you can get to...

www.badgerandblade.com

... and you'll have the necessary ingredients for tailoring your shave as you need it, and insights for addressing issues that arise. It might be that you need to change some of the things I advise, but at least you should hopefully have a better idea of what to change, and what not to.

Agreed, great advice. Wetshaving is a wonderful pastime that allows you to get as close, or not close, as you like. But it will take some time to learn what you like & how to use the tools that are right for you.

Good luck, & I hope you stick with it! Feel free to ask as many questions as you like.

 

[Slanterino]

If you have sensitive skin like me, getting a slant like a Merkur 37C helps a lot, because it's efficient as hell, you don't need too many swipes to et a clean shave.

Also, don't use creams or soap that are heavily scented since those scent come from perfume and they can irritate or burn your skin. Try something like omega shaving cream.

 

[abershaver]

A single WTG pass with a Gillette Guard might work well for this. Or the same one pass with a Broman and a milder blade like an Astra SP. Stubble reduction rather than removal. I too aim for a shave that isn’t too close in order to avoid irritation. Failing that an electric Phillips Oneblade (not sure what this is called in the US) does a similar job of very close trimming.

 

[BigJ]

Take this with (at least) a grain of salt as I enjoy a close shave!

Perhaps you could go with a mild razor, such as a Feather AS/D2, with a mid-sharp blade. Just a thought.

 

[kurt1911]

Thank you all for the suggestions! Especially to Aimless Wanderer for the detailed instructions, that helps a lot.

Yesterday morning I used a Merkur 38 HD with a Feather blade, Proraso Sensitive Skin Green Tea Pre-shave Cream and pre-shave oil. No cuts but it burned all over for the entire day. Today I tried using an Edwin Jagger DE89 instead in the hopes it would be milder. I took the same blade out of the other razor and used the same pre-shave, cream and prep. It burned a bit less (but still rather uncomfortably) on my cheeks afterwards but wouldn't really shave my chin at all.

Even with a blade that's only on it's second use it just won't cut chin hairs with a light touch. I'm left with what looks like 1 day stubble. The razor just stops when I hit that area unless I press harder, which experience has already taught is a bad idea. I don't want a BBS shave, but it needs to be close enough to pass muster at Air Force Reserve duty, and this isn't good enough.

I'm thinking of taking tomorrow off to allow the skin to heal, then trying again on Thursday with the Merkur. I greatly prefer the longer knurled handle and heft relative to the EJ. I'll just try a Dorco blade and a lighter touch this time. If that doesn't work, maybe a Parker Semi-Slant razor would do the trick? I could see how the slanted blade might be more effective against the wires growing from my chin. Hitting them straight on doesn't seem to work even with the Feather blades, which are supposed to be the absolute sharpest. Wish me luck.

 

[Abz88]

You said you've tried going with the grain and against the grain in your problem area and both give you different problems. Have you tried going across the grain and seeing if that helps?

 

[aldomarino]

since you asked for opinions...mine is that you are concentrating too much on the hardware, the razor and the blade. Prep and technique is far more important. I'd recommend laying on some Nivea cream for a while before you shave, then hot water, then a really good thick shave soap like Arko.

As far as the hardware goes, forget the Feathers would be my advice, at least for now. Kinda hard to handle. Stick with a milder blade.

 

[Herrenberg]

If I go with the grain and come down the chin, I run into the protruding part of my chin, cut too close and get ingrown hairs. If I go up against the grain, it's easier to follow the curve of the chin, but then it cuts too close below my lip and I get ingrown hairs.

Maybe I'm not reading this right, but why couldn't you go with the grain, stop before you run into the protruding part of your chin, then go against the grain, and stop before you reach the part of your lip that gives you trouble?

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Thank you all for the suggestions! Especially to Aimless Wanderer for the detailed instructions, that helps a lot.

Yesterday morning I used a Merkur 38 HD with a Feather blade, Proraso Sensitive Skin Green Tea Pre-shave Cream and pre-shave oil. No cuts but it burned all over for the entire day. Today I tried using an Edwin Jagger DE89 instead in the hopes it would be milder. I took the same blade out of the other razor and used the same pre-shave, cream and prep. It burned a bit less (but still rather uncomfortably) on my cheeks afterwards but wouldn't really shave my chin at all.

Even with a blade that's only on it's second use it just won't cut chin hairs with a light touch. I'm left with what looks like 1 day stubble. The razor just stops when I hit that area unless I press harder, which experience has already taught is a bad idea. I don't want a BBS shave, but it needs to be close enough to pass muster at Air Force Reserve duty, and this isn't good enough.

I'm thinking of taking tomorrow off to allow the skin to heal, then trying again on Thursday with the Merkur. I greatly prefer the longer knurled handle and heft relative to the EJ. I'll just try a Dorco blade and a lighter touch this time. If that doesn't work, maybe a Parker Semi-Slant razor would do the trick? I could see how the slanted blade might be more effective against the wires growing from my chin. Hitting them straight on doesn't seem to work even with the Feather blades, which are supposed to be the absolute sharpest. Wish me luck.

Hmmm ... if it's closeness you're struggling with, the chances are you haven't found the right angle yet. Or at least not in all areas. Effectively, you're cutting high. As your skin is so adamantly telling you, adding pressure to compensate for poor angle is not the way to win. As for "The razor just stops when I hit that area unless I press harder", pressure is the force onto the face (perpendicular), not shaving across (parallel). You should be pressing inwards to make it go forwards! If it's tugging, again, that would suggest the angle is off (which could be too steep, or too shallow - the result is the same).

Changing razor, just changes the angle you need to hit, and makes it even harder for you to learn it. That's like a sniper missing with his first shot, and then shouting "Can you move sideways a bit, please?" Moving the goalposts in the hope that you're moving them the right way, isn't going to help much. Well, it might actually help some areas, but make other areas worse, as ALL the angles all over the face need adjusting for the new kit. There is a learning curve, and practice is what you need. There is skill required to reap the rewards offered by traditional shaving, and that skill needs to be learned and practised.

If you want a practice shave tomorrow, while your skin is resting. Take the blade out, then "shave" with no lather so you can see where the cap is lifting, and where the comb is lifting, on the various parts of your face. If your skin deflects while you're doing that - too much pressure. This might help you grasp both angle and pressure quicker, and have less days being punished by razor burn or inflamed roots.

 

[Ron R]

To get a CCS,DFS,BBS range you have to use the proper razor(mild range, Gillette super speed.....). You also have to know your beard grain growth direction with a beard map so not to shave ATG. I would suggest 1 or 2 pass shave with no pickups unless you figure its needed. I think you should get your desired affects of your shave just following a simple procedure and stick with it. When your done shaving you should feel some stubble but not really visible.
I will leave this beard map and just print one off, leave a 2 or 3 day growth and visually look at the direction is the most accurate way to see your beard grain direction IMO.( beard map looks weird to me but it works well)

Have some great shaves! Stay and think safe in these times!

 

[kurt1911]

since you asked for opinions...mine is that you are concentrating too much on the hardware, the razor and the blade. Prep and technique is far more important. I'd recommend laying on some Nivea cream for a while before you shave, then hot water, then a really good thick shave soap like Arko.

That’s entirely possible, my focus does tend to drift to tools. Which Nivea cream are you referring to? What prep steps would be worthwhile besides shaving after a very hot shower, rubbing in the pre-shave with more very hot water, and applying lots of very hot lather with a brush? Notb testing to be argumentative, just want to know what I might be missing.

Abz88, across the grain in that area might not be possible. It’s kind of a hollow. This is where a soul patch would grow if I allowed it.

 

[aldomarino]

That’s entirely possible, my focus does tend to drift to tools. Which Nivea cream are you referring to? What prep steps would be worthwhile besides shaving after a very hot shower, rubbing in the pre-shave with more very hot water, and applying lots of very hot lather with a brush? Notb testing to be argumentative, just want to know what I might be missing.

Abz88, across the grain in that area might not be possible. It’s kind of a hollow. This is where a soul patch would grow if I allowed it.

Just the standard Nivea in the blue jar. Nothing fancy.

 

[Mark1977]

I have a Rockwell 6C. The plate 1 is soooo mild that it's impossible to get a close shave. I don't even feel the blade when I was testing out this plate.
U might wanna get the 2C.

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[emily666]

Rockwell 6s.
I used a fresh German Personna on plate 4 last week which was super sharp rather prickily and irritating so I worked my way down to plate 2 which provided a really excellent smooth irritation free shave.Rockwell gave me the flexability to find a comfortable plate setting .As the blade smoothed off a little I have changed up to a plate 3 and continued to get excellent shaves.I then tried the blade in my fatip open comb slant and picillo and neither gave an irritation free shave.

 

[fekoljabut]

Shave with EJ d89 and work on your technique. Everything that you described in the first post is just lousy preparation and poor technique related. Sorry.

 

[Invicta]

BBS is NOT the goal here; I could care less about smoothness, I just need to look presentable.

A two pass shave (no ATG pass) will achieve the standard you are aiming for and that will be a presentable standard but not too close. If you get irritation after two passes you need to work on technique and preparation. It does mean you have to map your beard but that is fairly easy.
You may have to look for different blades but consider the Gillette Silver Blue or Astra SP for a good balance of smoothness and sharpness.