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Help! Simpson's lettering Color..

Well, I'm pretty disappointed. I just picked up a used Eagle G3 from BST and after sterilizing it, I did the Ambrose lather treatment. My lather was pretty heavy and covered the lettering. To my surprise, when I rinsed it off all the gold lettering came off! :angry:

The grooves are pretty deep, so I was going to run to the hardware store tomorrow and see if they have any gold coloring. Anyone know what would be the best match? If not, I'll probably just use black.

Also, how should I go about doing this? Should I get a small paint brush and only try to paint the lettering, or since they are grooved pretty deep can I paint over the whole thing and just wipe off all the excess assuming paint will stay in the grooves?

Furthermore, after I do this what should I put over the paint to keep this from happening again?

Thanks all!
 
here's a product I used on an antique musical instrument to restore a couple maker's marks- 'Rub 'n Buff' by Amaco. It's a wax based product that you rub into the recessed letters and... well.. buff the extra off. I picked mine up at the local hobby shop, but I don't know how common it is. I also don't know how it will hold up against water and lather, but it is a wax-based product so it should hold up reasonably well.

I don't know if you want to pursue this route, but here is the website.
 
I *think* that guys who re-paint Gillette adjustable razor numbers use model paint and the method you described (slop it on and wipe the excess off the surface and the grooves will capture the paint). Not sure if this will work on the faux ivory or not, so please exercise caution.

Gold lettering? I always considered Simpson lettering to be black(ish).
 
I *think* that guys who re-paint Gillette adjustable razor numbers use model paint and the method you described (slop it on and wipe the excess off the surface and the grooves will capture the paint). Not sure if this will work on the faux ivory or not, so please exercise caution.

Gold lettering? I always considered Simpson lettering to be black(ish).

I guess it always looked gold to me, but black may be best. The grooves are very deep though so I hope that it stays. Would covering it in figure nail polish help to keep it water freE?
 
I guess it always looked gold to me, but black may be best. The grooves are very deep though so I hope that it stays. Would covering it in figure nail polish help to keep it water freE?

Yes, clear nail polish was the trick used to keep Somerset era Simpson stickers from falling off.
 
Sticker is fine, the lettering in the "G3" and "Best Badger" and "Eagle" is what came off.

Ah, I misread your post. In my experience, the etched lettering has a dark color to it. I have never noticed a gold hint to it. I always figured that the color came from the burning of the handle's material during the laser etching process.

The lettering is quite fine and would require a really fine brush. I might even use a toothpick to do the work. If it were me, I would look for a lamp black or black model paint, possibly a Testors Paint. To protect it, I would use a clear coat.

If I recall correctly, I have seen some Simpson brushes that have no coloring in the etched lettering.

Good luck!
 
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Ah, I misread your post. In my experience, the etched lettering has a dark color to it. I have never noticed a gold hint to it. I always figured that the color came from the burning of the handle's material during the laser etching process.

The lettering is quite fine and would require a really fine brush. I might even use a toothpick to do the work. If it were me, I would look for a lamp black or black model paint, possibly a Testors Paint. To protect it, I would use a clear coat.

If I recall correctly, I have seen some Simpson brushes that have no coloring in the etched lettering.

Good luck!

I just don't like that look. To be honest, maybe this would give me an opportunity to give the lettering a different color. I don't foresee selling this brush, so instead of black maybe I could go with red or blue :biggrin1:

To be honest, the brush came without a sticker, but I emailed vulfix the other day and they are sending me some replacements.

Just couldn't believe the etched lettering came off as well.
 
From the few Simfix brushes I've had, I always thought the letter "coloring" was nothing more than residue from whatever compound they used for final polishing collecting inside the grooves. Some where golden like, other have been darker.

I've been able to restore flakes falling off by rubbing a candle over the letters; car wax may give a better effect.
 
mine came off as well...don't mind at all, it looks fine without the color..for me, this seems to be some rubber material.

I wouldn't use paint
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Best grade brushes bear gold lettering. The two I've owned (Eagle and Colonel) did.

If it were me, I'd probably fill it in with a gold pain pen or something. I like the rub n buff idea, too.
 

johnniegold

"Proper Bob"
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Best grade brushes bear gold lettering. The two I've owned (Eagle and Colonel) did.

If it were me, I'd probably fill it in with a gold pain pen or something. I like the rub n buff idea, too.

The only gold-lettering I have is on the Astor Ltd Ed. Anniversary Brush.
 
An Update:

I decided that I would just use the color of my choice. Thought black would look good. I tried several coats (just applied and wipe off as the letters are pretty recessed to keep it in), but it didn't quite stick as I would have liked.

In the end I just used some black emery compound that stuck nice and even in the grooves. I'm waiting on a sticker from vulfix and am just going to seal it all with finger nail polish.

I think the gold lettering is just a byproduct of their buffing procedure, as it didn't seem like paint when it fell off. Almost used Tripoli (kind of gold color), but just went with black. I think it turned out pretty well.
 
I like the way they look with the faded lettering and sticker. I don't think theyre supposed to be permanent anywho.
 
If you go with black, another option would be a black grease pencil (carpenters use them so try Home Depot). simply rub on, then wipe off. Should be much safer than trying a 'wash' technique with paint. Would still recommend doing a small test wipe and rub on the bottom.
 
If you go with black, another option would be a black grease pencil (carpenters use them so try Home Depot). simply rub on, then wipe off. Should be much safer than trying a 'wash' technique with paint. Would still recommend doing a small test wipe and rub on the bottom.

I updated the thread a couple posts back. Just used emery compound and it worked great.
 
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