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I have kept my Stetson Open Road and Stratolounger in their original form, other than snapping the brim down. I have several of the Akubra Campdraft hats, purchased in open crown form so I could form as I like. I tried to do an open road type bash and it just did not look right, too soft so I went with a teardrop shapes and one is a simple center dent. For the value and quality the Australian Akubra hats cannot be beat.
 

strop

Now half as wise
I've looked at the Akubras that you bash yourself, but haven't pulled the trigger. I was afraid I would screw up a nice hat. Do they need to be steamed to hold the shape, or do you just shape them how you like and they stay that way? How difficult is it to change shape, or is it a one and done thing?
 
I've looked at the Akubras that you bash yourself, but haven't pulled the trigger. I was afraid I would screw up a nice hat. Do they need to be steamed to hold the shape, or do you just shape them how you like and they stay that way? How difficult is it to change shape, or is it a one and done thing?

I have never used steam on mine, just put some water, distilled or deionized is better because it does not leave any mineral deposits, until very damp then shape and let dry. I have never had any problem with one of them holding it's shape. If you are not satisified, simply repeat the process.
 
Hi,

Steam out of a teakettle would do. The heat will release starch in the felt better than water will. Shape when damp and warm and let dry.

Stan
 
I have a good fedora which I purchased many decades ago.

While the hat it in good condition, the sweatband is leather, and over time adsorbing moisture it has been hard and shrunk a bit.

If I go to a hat store do you think they will replace the sweatband? Would it be a task I could YouTube and try be hand?
 
Hi,

Steam out of a teakettle would do. The heat will release starch in the felt better than water will. Shape when damp and warm and let dry.

Stan

Steam will work fine. Water works as well for me on the Akubra hats. I never heard of using starch in the felt, but had read somewhere about a thin lightweight shellac being used for a stiffener, which I believe to be the case as some of the newer Stetson and Resistol hats are so stiff that the level of stiffness could never be achieved with starch. In that case steam, the heat and moisture would soften the shellac. All of my Akubra hats are rather soft, so I doubt if very much if any stiffener is used in them.
 
Hi,

Steam out of a teakettle would do. The heat will release starch in the felt better than water will. Shape when damp and warm and let dry.

Stan
Hi Stan ,

I did pull the trigger , bought a silver belly 6x Open Road . I have several western hats , but wide brim seem inappropriate in dresser situations . I wanted to ask , I've never owned a hat stretcher , but some of my older hats are needing stretching (pinching in the front , no longer long oval , more rounded) , I used to wear a 7 1/4 , but my last was a 7 3/8 , I measured before purchasing to check , 23" , so 7 3/8 it is . Plus in my older hats , I think , rain and not wearing some for years , the shape has changed . Not sure if the steam kettle with me doing it will do the trick , or if it needs professional work to straighten them out , stretch the shape back , get the shape back to wearable condition . What do you recommend ? My Dad and Granddad had rain covers , too , seems they were sold with the hats bought back then , also , I remember having some ... mink oil spray , or something that conditioned them to protect them from weather , but it's been so long , I can't remember . I guess I could check the web , or look at a hatter's site , or call and ask . Why did my head get bigger ? Pretty sure my brain has shrunk . haha ! Thanks Bro ... (I've noticed shirt and pants sizes have changed , a size 30 waist , now is like a 34-36 ! A large shirt is like XL now , wats up !?) Guess I'm shrinking , but my head is growing ! haha ! Thanks again !
 
Steam will work fine. Water works as well for me on the Akubra hats. I never heard of using starch in the felt, but had read somewhere about a thin lightweight shellac being used for a stiffener, which I believe to be the case as some of the newer Stetson and Resistol hats are so stiff that the level of stiffness could never be achieved with starch. In that case steam, the heat and moisture would soften the shellac. All of my Akubra hats are rather soft, so I doubt if very much if any stiffener is used in them.


Shellac is used in making some older style of hats as a stiffener.


i re-enact several periods, and my 1812 shakos(both the Belgic and stovepipe styles) have been treated with shellac when made.
 
Stretchers work I tried one of the "hat jack" brands and found it too thin, not thick enough to fit the entire sweatband so researched and got one of these
https://www.wardrobesupplies.com/products/wooden-hat-stretcher

a lot more costly but well made and it does a good job, just get everything wet especially the sweatband and do not try to stretch too much at a time. If you try to do too much you can actually pull the stitches loose a the back where the ends of the sweat join.

They also make a 4 way model that will stretch side to side as well as front to back
 
Stretchers work I tried one of the "hat jack" brands and found it too thin, not thick enough to fit the entire sweatband so researched and got one of these
https://www.wardrobesupplies.com/products/wooden-hat-stretcher

a lot more costly but well made and it does a good job, just get everything wet especially the sweatband and do not try to stretch too much at a time. If you try to do too much you can actually pull the stitches loose a the back where the ends of the sweat join.

They also make a 4 way model that will stretch side to side as well as front to back
Thanks Jeff ! I ordered a Hat Jack late last night/early this morning , it said Heavy Duty , but I called the guy I bought my last hat from , he said something similar , but said let it come and see , then call him .Then we'll talk < I messed up and ordered a round oval ... , needed a long oval ! Oh No ! It just hit me last night ! I forgot to look , looked and saw ... . augh ! He said he sold a plastic version , but only stretched minimally , mostly a retainer . ... you pay for what you get , and I should have looked , but I saw the price and jumped ! Thanks for the info ... nice stretcher !
 
Whatever Hat you're interested in , and I mean any , Fedora or Western Versions , Whatever you are looking for , I know a Custom Hatter about 30 miles from me that does AMAZING Custom Made Hats , 100% Beaver , or 50/50 Beaver/Hare , on down . He does restoration , too , www.buckaroohatters.com in Covington TN , just north of Memphis . He's made hats for Johnny Dep , others , and movies , exceptional quality ! I've never priced a Custom Hat , but he has others that are handmade , but standard , custom are made for you , like a Custom Tailor . Nice site , plus videos , info , other stuff . Mike Moore is the guy's name , Buckaroo Hatters .
 
Stretchers work I tried one of the "hat jack" brands and found it too thin, not thick enough to fit the entire sweatband so researched and got one of these
https://www.wardrobesupplies.com/products/wooden-hat-stretcher

a lot more costly but well made and it does a good job, just get everything wet especially the sweatband and do not try to stretch too much at a time. If you try to do too much you can actually pull the stitches loose a the back where the ends of the sweat join.

They also make a 4 way model that will stretch side to side as well as front to back

Thank you for the information, and the link.

That is a good resource site.
 
Steam will work fine. Water works as well for me on the Akubra hats. I never heard of using starch in the felt, but had read somewhere about a thin lightweight shellac being used for a stiffener, which I believe to be the case as some of the newer Stetson and Resistol hats are so stiff that the level of stiffness could never be achieved with starch. In that case steam, the heat and moisture would soften the shellac. All of my Akubra hats are rather soft, so I doubt if very much if any stiffener is used in them.

Hi,

I agree that Akubra makes very soft felt, and so I also doubt they use any stiffener at all. Shellac used to be. I am unsure just when that changed. During WWII for sure, because lots of things had to be changed. Before, I would think because it was imported and costs had to be slashed during the depression.

Stan
 
I've been meaning to start a thread with pictures, but since the Open Road seems to be active in this thread:

I have a Stetson that looks like an Open Road, but it doesn't have the bound edge. Any idea what this might be?

It's quite stiff, with a cattleman's crease and a narrower brim. The creases aren't perfectly parallel, unlike some of the Open Roads I see. I measure the brim at 3 inches, which I think might be 1/4 inch more than an Open Road, but looks pretty narrow on a 7 5/8 inch hat.
 
Hi Stan ,

I did pull the trigger , bought a silver belly 6x Open Road . I have several western hats , but wide brim seem inappropriate in dresser situations . I wanted to ask , I've never owned a hat stretcher , but some of my older hats are needing stretching (pinching in the front , no longer long oval , more rounded) , I used to wear a 7 1/4 , but my last was a 7 3/8 , I measured before purchasing to check , 23" , so 7 3/8 it is . Plus in my older hats , I think , rain and not wearing some for years , the shape has changed . Not sure if the steam kettle with me doing it will do the trick , or if it needs professional work to straighten them out , stretch the shape back , get the shape back to wearable condition . What do you recommend ? My Dad and Granddad had rain covers , too , seems they were sold with the hats bought back then , also , I remember having some ... mink oil spray , or something that conditioned them to protect them from weather , but it's been so long , I can't remember . I guess I could check the web , or look at a hatter's site , or call and ask . Why did my head get bigger ? Pretty sure my brain has shrunk . haha ! Thanks Bro ... (I've noticed shirt and pants sizes have changed , a size 30 waist , now is like a 34-36 ! A large shirt is like XL now , wats up !?) Guess I'm shrinking , but my head is growing ! haha ! Thanks again !

Hi,

Oh, Man! Left wide open for a joke, there! :p

Yeah, they shrink some. Hair growth plays a part as well. I wear a crew cut in summer, and a regular in winter. So, I have slightly larger felt hats than I do straw.

I use vintage wooden stretchers. They are taller and are also a full form. They are tapered somewhat, and by using two - one my size and one the size smaller - can usually take care of minor shrinkage using those. For some jobs, I move over to a hot block stretcher.

Stan
 

strop

Now half as wise
Whatever Hat you're interested in , and I mean any , Fedora or Western Versions , Whatever you are looking for , I know a Custom Hatter about 30 miles from me that does AMAZING Custom Made Hats , 100% Beaver , or 50/50 Beaver/Hare , on down . He does restoration , too , www.buckaroohatters.com in Covington TN , just north of Memphis . He's made hats for Johnny Dep , others , and movies , exceptional quality ! I've never priced a Custom Hat , but he has others that are handmade , but standard , custom are made for you , like a Custom Tailor . Nice site , plus videos , info , other stuff . Mike Moore is the guy's name , Buckaroo Hatters .


I've looked at the website more than once. Nice to know they are the real deal. I may have to make a road trip one of these days.
 
I've been meaning to start a thread with pictures, but since the Open Road seems to be active in this thread:

I have a Stetson that looks like an Open Road, but it doesn't have the bound edge. Any idea what this might be?

It's quite stiff, with a cattleman's crease and a narrower brim. The creases aren't perfectly parallel, unlike some of the Open Roads I see. I measure the brim at 3 inches, which I think might be 1/4 inch more than an Open Road, but looks pretty narrow on a 7 5/8 inch hat.
It could be a Stetson Twenty-Five , or similar ; I think they had 3" brims , not sure but I think came open crown (top) , molded to the style crease the buyer wanted .
 
Some Twenty-Fives were Twenty-Five Open Road Steston's ...

$5438512297_d7f1f137c2_b.jpg
Lower Right is a Twenty-Five , next to an Open Road ... and

$s-l225.jpg
Here's a Twenty-Five ... 3" Brim , no trim ... .
2.75" brim more or less Open Roads , .25" not much ... variations . But Stratoliner's have 2 1/2" Brims , I think .
 
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It could be a Stetson Twenty-Five , or similar ; I think they had 3" brims , not sure but I think came open crown (top) , molded to the style crease the buyer wanted .

Thanks, Michael. Sounds like it might be. The back of the size tag says "United Hatters, Cap and Millinery Workers", which would put it after 1934. The Stetson crest on the sweatband has a field of stars rather than a maple leaf, but the sticker in the crown (unlined) has a maple leaf. From what I read, the transition to the maple leaf was around 1950.
 

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