Going to Autozone....
- Thread starter rimmini
- Start date
Depends on how fine the grit is, but I would incline to think I wouldn't work for honing, though it would work for lapping hones.
Either way you would need some kind of embedded abrasive surface for setting the bevel at least IMO.
Either way you would need some kind of embedded abrasive surface for setting the bevel at least IMO.
- Thread starter
- #3
Actually, it worked great. I was able to take the nicks out of a razor I have been working on for days in about ten minutes. Not saying I will use it all the time... at least not until I can figure out how to protect the spine from this stuff but a little Permatex valve grinding compound did do the trick this time.
Hey, great!
Did the grit affect the edge at all? Or is it ok? I guess it would be similar to a slurry on a coticule. Any ides the micron size of the compound?
Did the grit affect the edge at all? Or is it ok? I guess it would be similar to a slurry on a coticule. Any ides the micron size of the compound?
yeah I would think it would make a good sub. I used that stuff religiously when rebuilding heads- as you stated, to seat valves properly. man that took elbow grease. lol!
- Thread starter
- #6
Not sure if it messed up the edge..... I haven't used it yet. But it did clean the nicks out. After that its should be a simple matter of honing the edge. It is working pretty well for setting the edge on a training razor I bought today. Its late and its bed time but I did go from a butter knife edge to one that will shread a reciept. More tomorrow.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
If you are going to protect the spine, don't forget to protect the edge, too. You don't want to grind down the blade width while the spine thickness remains the same.
- Thread starter
- #8
Why is that?
The edge was not ruined by the lapping compound but it did need to be refinished and stropped.
My butter knife blade is getting there too.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
What happens to the cross sectional shape of the blade if it gets narrower but remains at its original thickness?
HINT: it has something to do with the bevel angle, a not inconsequential consideration.
Ruin the spine? Again, what about the edge?
The old edge was not merely ruined... it is GONE. You made it go away. It's not even there anymore. You can never get that steel back. No biggie... this was anticipated when the razor was designed and manufactured. A straight razor can start out as a 7/8 chopper and retire as a 3/8 toothpick and still shave, as long as the bevel angle remains within a reasonable range. The spine of a razor is not ruined simply because you honed a few microns of it away. It is meant to wear in proportion to the edge. That is WHY most vintage blades, even with considerably less steel than when they were made 100 or 120 years ago, still shave. If electrical tape had been invented in 1870 and immediately latched on as a way to keep from "ruining" the spine, you would see a lot of sad old razors with 30 degree bevels. The straight razor was never meant to be honed with tape. It was simply meant to be honed. Normally. Even removing 1/32" of blade width (I have removed well over 1/8" on occasion, fixing a frown or chip) can change the bevel by a degree or more. You only have just so much to play around with. Find an old beater and purposely and deliberately give it a 20 degree bevel and see how it shaves. The typical bevel is 16-1/2 to 17-1/2 degrees. The math is obvious.
That's why I say if you protect the spine from the hone, you should protect the edge from the hone as well. In other words, don't do either. Normal wear on the spine is not ruining the spine. It is meant to be that way. It is normal and natural. The only difference is you can see the flat on the spine get wider, but you don't see all that steel at the edge disappear forever. The fact of the matter is, if the spine and edge wear away in proportion, the bevel remains more or less the same. And the razor keeps on shaving as long as there is any steel left in it.
There are situations where you should tape the spine, but not if you don't have a good reason such as a full wedge blade, or a spine that has somehow already worn too thin. Or a showpiece that you want to hone just because it is after all a razor, but that of course you won't use as an everyday shaver and won't be honing it all the time.
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- #10
Cool thanks for the lesson. I figured it was something like that. I am use to my Antique store 15 and 20 dollar blades so marring the spine was never even an afterthought . With my two new ones coming in I figured I might want to consider not marring it. But now that I think about it if you can't shave with it might as well not have it. Thanks again.
What about blades that got there removable hone guides put on? After couple of laps on a 12um the guide was really abused. If I go on I don't se it lasting much longer.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Removable hone guide? Never heard of one. Your hone guide is the spine of the razor. Got a pic? I would like to see what you are talking about before I open my mouth about something I don't have a clue about.
I might just start a new thread so i dont have to hijack this one.
Pics are inbound.
Pics are inbound.
