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Gillette Slim Adjustable and Super Speed Problems

I'm not sure if this has been covered in other threads already, but when this double whammy hit me, I did what every noob does: freak out. :eek2:

First problem: In my insane quest for a Fat Boy, I picked up a Gillette Slim Adjustable razor as a way of testing the waters. After sitting unused for a few days (I was reluctant to abandon the Super Speed I grew so comfortable with), I decided to give it a go, and realized the adjuster dial was a little stiff in its movement. It's not unbearable, but how do I properly fix that problem before it gets worse? I soaked the razor in a bowl of mineral oil and that didn't seem to help much.

Second problem: Going back to use the SS, the TTO mechanism grew extremely stiff as I twisted it open. Repeated attempts yielded the same result. Scouring through the ShaveWiki and finding safety razor maintenance tips, I boiled it, poured Calcium/Lime/Rust remover down the center hole in the plate and applied mineral oil as instructed and - somehow - the TTO knob is even stiffer, almost to the point of tearing skin from my fingers when I try to open it.

Does anyone have solutions to these problems? Is my Super Speed done for? Or am I overlooking something?
 
Does anyone have solutions to these problems? Is my Super Speed done for? Or am I overlooking something?

I have only limited experience in razor cleaning but I can say a couple of times the TTO knob has stuck all of a sudden during cleaning. I guess it's caused by loosened gunk accumulating on its way out. Cleaning the insides completely can take an unbelievable amount of work/time but for me, further cleaning has always resolved any stiffness issues.

One thing I've found useful is to pour some lime remover or alcohol down the shaft and let the razor sit in a upright position for quite a while. I have had to repeat this process several times on the dirtier razors. Even when I've thought the razor is as clean as possiby can be, I've had to do it all over again as more of that dirty stuff starts oozing out again.
 
With the adjustable - make sure you loosen the TTO BEFORE changing the adjustments.

Cleaning wise, soak in weak detergent for a day or so - it should free up any gunk.
 
I had a similar issue with a few of my TTOs, some after cleaning like you. I soaked in dish soap for 24 hours and that helped a little. I put WD-40 on the TTO knob on a couple and that loosened them up. You will get varying opinions on WD-40 though, some recommend against it. If you use it, soak the razor in dish soap for a few hours after. And try not to get too much on the numbers.

I have also read about people pouring lighter fluid down the middle of it, or paint thinner, to loosen up the adjuster on the Slims and Fatboys. Again, be careful on the numbers if there is paint left in them.
 
Cleaning wise, soak in weak detergent for a day or so - it should free up any gunk.

I soaked in dish soap for 24 hours and that helped a little.

+1
I had a Slim with a very uncoöperative knob when twisting into or out of the locking position. Finally, I discovered that soaking in a solution of water and dish washing liquid helped, so I extended it. A soaking of about 3-4 days had it working much better.

One person's experience. YMMV.
 
You might have a bent arm on the side. Look at it very carefully and see if that is the case. I have a Rocket that was stiff - I went through the same drill you did. Then I noticed that one of the arms on the door was bent and used needle nose pliers to straighten it out. Worked like a charm. Although there are tiny teeth marks from the pliers; but I feel it was worth it because it shaves like a dream.
 
I've bought adjustables before where the TTO knob was stiff and wouldn't make the last "lock down" turn at all. I set it up in something that can collect the liquid as it runs out and put a decent amount of naptha lighter fluid (like what goes in a Zippo) down the center hole from the top until it came out clear instead of with dissolved gunk in it and they work like a beauty now.

Unless you have bent hardware, as mentioned above, I think this would solve your problem as well.
 
I would be careful with petroleum-based lubricants. You don't want these to ever get into a cut. Mineral Oil is safer. Although the petroleum based lubes are probably more effective.
 
I would be careful with petroleum-based lubricants. You don't want these to ever get into a cut. Mineral Oil is safer. Although the petroleum based lubes are probably more effective.

Isn't mineral oil petroleum based?

I'm not sure, but I think mineral oil stripped the paint off my Slim's dial numbers. Is that possible?
 
Time and patience are needed - give it a long soak in the liquid of your choice, then work the TTO knob around a bunch, trying to push it a little further each time, and then back into the liquid for another extended soak. You're trying to slowly break up whatever crud is gumming up the works, and will probably have to do this a few times - remember, there's probably decades of hardened gunk in there, it'll take a while to get through it.
 
Well - ok - maybe - but mineral oil very different from WD 40 or lighter fluid, which you cannot ingest or allow into a cut.

Mineral oil is a paraffin (I think - not 100% sure); I don't think WD 40 and lighter fluid fall into that category.

You can drink mineral oil (although not very pleasant). But you can't drink WD 40. I can put Vaseline (related to mineral oil) on a cut. But I would never put WD 40 on a cut.

Isn't mineral oil petroleum based?

I'm not sure, but I think mineral oil stripped the paint off my Slim's dial numbers. Is that possible?
 
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Anything wrong with olive oil?

Not all oils are the same. Any vegetable oil will tend to coagulate and gum up over time, so it's generally not a good lubricant for metal-to-metal working parts. It might perhaps be useful for soaking and cleaning (I don't know), but you'd have to make sure you then clean the oil all off.
 
Since I posted earlier, I've poured alcohol down the SS, let it stand upright for a couple of hours and then started soaking it in soapy water. I tested it out just now, and there's been a minor improvement in the TTO mechanism.

Just have to keep at it.
 
Progress report: even after a few days of soaks, CLR, alcohol and even a tiny bit of WD-40, the SS has only shown marginal improvement. The arms don't appear to be bent, so I'm thinking it has something to do with the inner mechanical workings of the razor. If that's the case...I don't have the faintest clue how to take it apart. I don't think it's possible, at least not with the limited arsenal of tools at my disposal.

I guess it's time to bust out a display rack...
 
Does the TTO knob have up and down play in it? It could be that the crimp down toward the bottom of the handle is no longer holding the knob firmly in place. If that's coming partially out of the groove it could cause stiffness. Pushing up on the knob as you turn should work if that's the case. There is a fix involving a dulled down pipe cutter that onotoman worked out.
 
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