Getting nicks out.
- Thread starter rimmini
- Start date
What stone are you using, if I have nicks I use the DMT 600, takes only a few minutes-7 hours-yikes
Aye, 7 hours would wear any one of mine into a toothpick.
What kind of hone are using? It really depends on the metal for me. If the metal isn't overly brittle I have used a grinder or super high grit sanding belts for razors with big chips. I have done a few where the metal is so damn brittle it's nerve racking with the lightest touch possible to avoid causing other chips. (amazing what a spark or sound of metal being ground can tell you) If the chips weren't so massive I think I'd just prefer to use a hone. Heat is your enemy in these situations. You have to take it very slow. I have one doing just for fun that I have spent weeks fixing it's so damaged. Edge looks like a wood saw. The absolute most brittle razor I have ever seen. Rest fall in between. If you make a mistake can cause enough damage to make it beyond repair so I wouldn't recomend trying first time with anything but a junk razor.
i always use my lower grits or a diamond plate even a sanding block to get me past the nicks, chips and damage of any kind then hone. sometimes i even resort to bread knifing. then, reset bevel and start my plan on honing.
This is pretty much my way as well. I have a Norton 220 for the worst nicks. I put some tape on the spine at that grit and go to work until the nick is out.
Is it a matter of a few nicks on the edge, or is the blade pitted and as you hone the edge back you are simply revealing new nicks?
I think the OP is passed out form honing exhaustion.
Damn, 7 hours.
- Thread starter
- #11
Got pics of the razor?
Golly, yeah. Grab some 1500 grit wet/dry from autozone, maybe 1000. Use that with a flat backing plate as a cheap way to get going...stick it down with some spray adhesive. Did you lap your stone? If you gotta take the metal off, you might as well do it fast. Arks tend to be slow to reeeeeealy slow.
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Need another hone or 3 in the mix. Can't imagine trying that with an Arkansas.
I've been known to use the belt sander with a fine grit belt. Although that was for a really unusual case. Generally, a coarse or medium DMT does the job nicely.
7 Hours? Ugh. I wouldn't have the patience.
7 Hours? Ugh. I wouldn't have the patience.
Ya... 7 hours just on the bevel setting?
Last time I honed for 7 hours, it was split up over the course of a Saturday and I completed 6 blades on DMT1200, Norton 4000/8000, Naniwa 12000, C-Nat, and stropping.
Last time I honed for 7 hours, it was split up over the course of a Saturday and I completed 6 blades on DMT1200, Norton 4000/8000, Naniwa 12000, C-Nat, and stropping.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
OMG, don't use a hard Arkie for repair or bevel setting! If you have a soft Arkie and it has recently been lapped flat, and it is nice and wide, like 2-3/4" or wider, then that would do okay. Unfortunately, it would be too coarse to shave off of. In fact, even a black or translucent arkie is generally a bit coarse for a razor. An Arkie is great for some things, like sharpening yoru favorite pocketknife for instance, but has limited usefulness when honing razors. Notice how few guys here use them, and how many use Nortons, Naniwas, other synthetics, Coticules, other naturals, or lapping film.
hey now, them's fightin' words.
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/296475-Black-Arkansas
but yeah, they are not the "normal" stuff. typically you'll find lappi-nort-icul-iwas to be more the normal animals suggested for honing, here and on other forums.
Maybe not normal but it's being done. Not for bevel work but a black translucent will put an edge on a razor that will best most.
You could try this guy's method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSzq45W0LTk&feature=related
