I'm about 50/50 is save the etching and deal with pitting if the etching was significant but I prwfer the polished look.... Just want to get an idea of what others thought
Etching vs polish which do you prefer?
- Thread starter Heespharm
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I too prefer the polished look depending on the significance of the etching as well. I will save if it the razor appearance can still meet my standards, if not its gone.
I like to remove the shoulder. There is a lot of sanding involved, so the etching is probably history. If I really like the etching it means living with the appearance and the shoulder.
You remove the shoulders on what kind of blade exactly?
I'd keep the etching if it was possible to do do while removing active rust. If the etching is barely visible anyway, I'll go for a high polish.
I'm sorry, I misspoke, I meant to say stabilizer.
I try very hard to preserve the originality of the blade when possible. I have been asked on several occasions to remove them and go for the shine. Depends on the blade. How bad or the location of the rust that can determine the outcome. Then too some don't mind seeing the patina of an old blade. It's a judgement call.
Big help Huh?
Big help Huh?
I completely agree. I like the look of patina, especially if it's super even patina and covers the entire blade. It almost looks like very fine hammering. Localized rust is another story, and may require extra work. At the very least, I make my best effort to save the etching, since it's most likely the reason I purchased the blade in the first place.
I just can't seem to get that kinda shine, maybe I need to spend more time sanding at a lower grit. Amazing work sir!
Thanks,,,,, but who is sir? I'm Mark!
Well done Mark. Me thinks patience and a steady hand should be high on your credits. Too many of us would have buffed the crap out of old relics like that. Good to see it returning to glory. Well done.
- Thread starter
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Nice work... This makes me want/need a buffing wheel.. Care to share ur buffing process magic.
That's the thing. It's not about the buffing. Same as most anything else. Want a good paint job? Then it's the time that goes into the prep work. Bad body work and bad prep won't look good with a coat of wax no matter how you buff it. Guess you can tell I just got my car back after some body work! It looks great for those reasons.
I know that its probably extremely project dependent, but how long do you usually spend at each grit when sanding? I probably need to use the 220 whether I think it needs it or not, but I have spent an hour at 320 and up, and I still can't manage to get that kinda mirror shine. I have a Wosty wedge that I would love to get to that point, but I just can't get it there. Any pointers?
I don't arbitrarily start at a given grit. Worst cases 220 maybe but I generally start at the highest grit I can that will do the job needed but not create extra work with unnecessary scratches adding to the
mess. Don't make more work.
320 won't be close to getting to anything resembling a shine. That finish is still dull and scratchy looking . Shiny metal will just start to show up around 800 on out.
mess. Don't make more work.
320 won't be close to getting to anything resembling a shine. That finish is still dull and scratchy looking . Shiny metal will just start to show up around 800 on out.
Like others, I'm extremely interested in the specific technique you used to get such staggering results. Would you mind sharing?
As I indicated on the prior post, sanding. That is what removes the rust and the
progression removes prior scratches. Boring I know , and it seems like it should be
more but that is the secret if you want to call it that.
The actual buffing is limited to one or two passes at the end. No more than that.
Proper sanding is the only thing that will preserve the details,maintain the surface while removing the rust and pitting. It's something you work at, develop a routine and technique that works for you or solves whatever problem that appears in each blade. Adjustments are always being made. Experiment. What I do is the same basic things I do working wood or body work on cars. It's a universal thing that applies wherever a smooth surface is the objective.
A show just the other night on building high end yachts the very same routine was followed. I sat there and called the next step.
progression removes prior scratches. Boring I know , and it seems like it should be
more but that is the secret if you want to call it that.
The actual buffing is limited to one or two passes at the end. No more than that.
Proper sanding is the only thing that will preserve the details,maintain the surface while removing the rust and pitting. It's something you work at, develop a routine and technique that works for you or solves whatever problem that appears in each blade. Adjustments are always being made. Experiment. What I do is the same basic things I do working wood or body work on cars. It's a universal thing that applies wherever a smooth surface is the objective.
A show just the other night on building high end yachts the very same routine was followed. I sat there and called the next step.
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Thanks. Simple…but hard. The next time I do a full restore, I'll leave out the buffing at the beginning. I used to look at it as a timesaver, but I generally end up dropping back a grit progression or two to get the look I want. Meanwhile I've blurred the edges of the stamping and/or compromised the etching on the blade.
One of the things about this hobby, or any seriously pursued activity, is the amount of complexity involved in doing a seemingly simple thing to perfection. Like sanding, lathering, shaving, honing etc.
