I am going to try to restore my first handle this weekend and would like some advice. The handle is pretty beatup and has a few small cracked up near the knot. I am going to try to fill them with epoxy mixed with black paint. (the color of the handle) I would like some recombinations for an epoxy that I can use to fix the cracks and also use to set the knot, when that time comes. Thanks
Epoxy to fix a cracked handle
- Thread starter Redman667
- Start date
Any waterproof two part epoxy.
Agree with the above. Can we get a picture.
- Thread starter
- #4
Here is the brush. Not sure if it can be made to look good but I think it will be fun trying.
Nice handle. I would filler with epoxy from the inside with a toothpick and the sand it smooth. you should be good to go.
+1 to those above. Just be sure to get a clear epoxy. I mistakenly grabbed white epoxy, which made it hard to blend with black paint on my last project. Good luck!!
I've used Devcon 5-Minute Clear Epoxy mixed with a little Testor's Black Enamel (the little bottles used for painting model airplanes, etc.) to repair similar cracks/splits on the same handle. It's not going to look perfect, but the bulk of the repair is going to be hidden by the knot.
The Devcon Epoxy is my go-to adhesive for setting knots.
The Devcon Epoxy is my go-to adhesive for setting knots.
There are several ways to repair cracks in wood or plastic. I have used several different methods to repair cracked wood gun stocks that may be worthwhile to repair shaving brushes. One method is to just fill in the crack with a matching color epoxy and hope that stops the cracking. With rifle stocks you want to stabilize the crack, so the material does not continue cracking and get worse..
The best method is to get a drill sized to match the dimentions of the material and the size of the crack you are repairing. You only want to drill out enough material to effect the repair. Size your drill accordingly. Some materials are just too thin to use this method. Carefully drill into the wood or plastic following the crack (just below the surface) to below where the crack ends. You want to stop the crack from lengthening. With wood stocks I sometimes use hardwood dowels the size of the drilled hole. I will force epoxy into the hole before I install the dowel so that it fills the internal cracking to stabilize the stock and stop continued cracking. The dowel is coated with epoxy and driven full length to the bottom of the hole. With smaller sized material, such as brush handles, you may not need dowels and can get by with just filling the just drilled handle. I like to use flat/round toothpicks, depending on the size of the hole or small finishing nails just under the size of the drill bit to force epoxy into the hole.
The above process works very well for rifle stocks. When done with skill is hard to detect and saves the rifle stock. I have never use the method describe to repair any shaving handles, but I believe the same method will work for many brush handles. As with most things, there are variables when applying one successful method and trying to use it on another material.
I have had a thin shelled butterscotch handle break into many pieces that I had to rebuild. It came out ok, but I was not satisfied with the result because I could still see the repaired cracks. It is hard to match up the exact color of a old butterscotch handle with clear epoxy tinted to a butter scotch that matches the handle. After several practice mixes I came close, but when it cured it was not exactly the same color. I did save the handle and now use it for my travel brush. Good luck with repairing your brush.
If you try the above method let us know how it works. I have not had to repair any brush handles with cracks like your handle.
The best method is to get a drill sized to match the dimentions of the material and the size of the crack you are repairing. You only want to drill out enough material to effect the repair. Size your drill accordingly. Some materials are just too thin to use this method. Carefully drill into the wood or plastic following the crack (just below the surface) to below where the crack ends. You want to stop the crack from lengthening. With wood stocks I sometimes use hardwood dowels the size of the drilled hole. I will force epoxy into the hole before I install the dowel so that it fills the internal cracking to stabilize the stock and stop continued cracking. The dowel is coated with epoxy and driven full length to the bottom of the hole. With smaller sized material, such as brush handles, you may not need dowels and can get by with just filling the just drilled handle. I like to use flat/round toothpicks, depending on the size of the hole or small finishing nails just under the size of the drill bit to force epoxy into the hole.
The above process works very well for rifle stocks. When done with skill is hard to detect and saves the rifle stock. I have never use the method describe to repair any shaving handles, but I believe the same method will work for many brush handles. As with most things, there are variables when applying one successful method and trying to use it on another material.
I have had a thin shelled butterscotch handle break into many pieces that I had to rebuild. It came out ok, but I was not satisfied with the result because I could still see the repaired cracks. It is hard to match up the exact color of a old butterscotch handle with clear epoxy tinted to a butter scotch that matches the handle. After several practice mixes I came close, but when it cured it was not exactly the same color. I did save the handle and now use it for my travel brush. Good luck with repairing your brush.
If you try the above method let us know how it works. I have not had to repair any brush handles with cracks like your handle.
