Very nice looks good to me 
Does this really count as resoring?
- Thread starter MissJames
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- #22
Hubby got me this Vom Cleff off of the 'bay. It doesn't seem to need much work. So far mainly focused on getting the gunk off of the scales and then I will polish the blade a bit. I really like the bamboo scales and am hoping to try to make a mold from them. Its a tiny wedge and I like shape of the blade and the thumb notch which has tiny jimps. The number 1957 is scratched into the back scale. Hubby says I removed all the character (the dirt caked into the bamboo shape) so I want to figure out how to put that back in. Maybe pigment rubbed in and then off and then some wax to seal it. Any suggestions?
I was trying to get some better pics of my Wostenholm Pipe razor:
Here is the etching on the front.
Here you can see the warp in the scales and the grind, which I think is a full wedge, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Even though the scales are so badly warped, it still sits fine in them and doesn't catch.
And the Bengall razor, which I got very cheap in order to really learn all the steps of cleaning up a very beat up razor. Starting by hand this time, with WD sand paper at 220 grit. It is very small 4/8 long skinny string bean scales made out of what I think is Vulcanite. When rubbed it smells like burning rubber and the sulfur. I didn't realize how sensitive it is to water. It started to discolor very quickly when I was washing the razor off. I was thinking that it would only react if it was submerged for a long time. With just a some dropplets of water sitting on the scales it started to do the olive green thing within minutes. And it has a big chip in the toe part. For this I made sure to have before and after pics.
Here is before it has alot of deep pitting and rust. The scales are in good shape, but they are sensitive and slighty discolored. But the pins are nice I am not sure if anything usable will come of this but I will learn plenty along the way.
This is after a scrub with toothpaste. I find that Crest whitening with baking soda & peroxide works really well. I would say too well to be rubbing that on your teeth everyday. Then I went at it with some 220 grit sand paper. I focused mainly on the blade for this first round of sanding, since I was trying to keep water off of the scales. I kinda feel bad about taking them off. Its so old and has survived this long in tact. I get a bit sentimental. But if the blade could be any good then it may be best to take them off to really clean it up well since there is lots of rust at the pivot. The pitting is worse on the back than the front. Could this still be saved? Could it shave again? Should I keep going with the 220 grit or move up to 400 grit?
I was trying to get some better pics of my Wostenholm Pipe razor:
Here is the etching on the front.
Here you can see the warp in the scales and the grind, which I think is a full wedge, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Even though the scales are so badly warped, it still sits fine in them and doesn't catch.
And the Bengall razor, which I got very cheap in order to really learn all the steps of cleaning up a very beat up razor. Starting by hand this time, with WD sand paper at 220 grit. It is very small 4/8 long skinny string bean scales made out of what I think is Vulcanite. When rubbed it smells like burning rubber and the sulfur. I didn't realize how sensitive it is to water. It started to discolor very quickly when I was washing the razor off. I was thinking that it would only react if it was submerged for a long time. With just a some dropplets of water sitting on the scales it started to do the olive green thing within minutes. And it has a big chip in the toe part. For this I made sure to have before and after pics.
Here is before it has alot of deep pitting and rust. The scales are in good shape, but they are sensitive and slighty discolored. But the pins are nice I am not sure if anything usable will come of this but I will learn plenty along the way.
This is after a scrub with toothpaste. I find that Crest whitening with baking soda & peroxide works really well. I would say too well to be rubbing that on your teeth everyday. Then I went at it with some 220 grit sand paper. I focused mainly on the blade for this first round of sanding, since I was trying to keep water off of the scales. I kinda feel bad about taking them off. Its so old and has survived this long in tact. I get a bit sentimental. But if the blade could be any good then it may be best to take them off to really clean it up well since there is lots of rust at the pivot. The pitting is worse on the back than the front. Could this still be saved? Could it shave again? Should I keep going with the 220 grit or move up to 400 grit?
Nice scores. The Bengall needs some TLC to shave again, but it should. Clean the blade, adjust the tip profile to something you find pleasing (it is cracked) then you are going to tape the spine and work out all the pitted material on the blade edge till in sound steel. Then you can choose to tape or not tape and set the bevel appropriately, etc.
It is also a good "shorty" candidate since the tip is damaged.
The other two razors are nice looking too.
Phil
It is also a good "shorty" candidate since the tip is damaged.
The other two razors are nice looking too.
Phil
I love the look of the bamboo style scales. Really sets things off. Let me ask you something about your Dremel work. What type of polishing compound did you use and where did you get it? I have seen Dico recommended here but we have no local Ace Hardware that carries it. And did you use any sort of brass brush/wheel bit in your Dremel to reomve rust? Thank you and well done.
Regards, Todd
Regards, Todd
Nice job! You really made my day, I had to show this post to my wife, she thought this straight razor addiction was a just a guy thing. I can appreciate how you're wanting to do it yourself and not get all crazy with buying lots of equipment. Keep up the great work!
currently using a dremel with the skinny wire brush and Mothers Bullit polish for a first pass then another pass using the ligther weight Mothers liq metal polish and the the smaller felt pads. Then final pass with same polish and the larger soft felt pad. I usually also go over the scales with polish and soft pad. I'm in the process of setting up the Dremel workstation for drilling and the router table for cutting scales. I picked up 2 nice hardly used corded Dremels off Craigslist for under $20 each.
Excellent restoration of a very cool looking razor. I love the big pipe stamp on the tang...
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- #28
Thanx guys! This is alot of fun. I'm always surprised when I look back at the before pictures.
For the red and white rouge I just bought the tiny bars they had at the art store. Other wise I also have used the yellow and black sticks of Ryobi compounds. I'm looking to find some Turtle wax rubbing compound, I have read many people recommending it on the forum. I've never used a brush wheel.
Here is a pic of the current stage. I went back to a coarse emery paper. I didn't think the 220 was getting at the devil's spit (just learned that
) on the back of the blade. It what I had on hand, maybe was a bit too coarse but it did the job i think. I have my doubts on weather it will ok on the back side to take an edge. From what I've read, no personal experience there.
I was getting a bit pouty about the depth of the pitting, so I moved on to trying to shape the toe of the blade. I got a cheap kitchen knife stone from the local cheapy store and used that to grind away at the extra metal until I had the right shape. And went back in with the 220, then moved up to 400. Between periods of sanding I also used some Noxon 7 on it a few times to try and get most of the deep tarnish out and active rust that was on the tang and in the pivot area.
For the red and white rouge I just bought the tiny bars they had at the art store. Other wise I also have used the yellow and black sticks of Ryobi compounds. I'm looking to find some Turtle wax rubbing compound, I have read many people recommending it on the forum. I've never used a brush wheel.
Here is a pic of the current stage. I went back to a coarse emery paper. I didn't think the 220 was getting at the devil's spit (just learned that
) on the back of the blade. It what I had on hand, maybe was a bit too coarse but it did the job i think. I have my doubts on weather it will ok on the back side to take an edge. From what I've read, no personal experience there. I was getting a bit pouty about the depth of the pitting, so I moved on to trying to shape the toe of the blade. I got a cheap kitchen knife stone from the local cheapy store and used that to grind away at the extra metal until I had the right shape. And went back in with the 220, then moved up to 400. Between periods of sanding I also used some Noxon 7 on it a few times to try and get most of the deep tarnish out and active rust that was on the tang and in the pivot area.
Don't worry about the deep pitting that is not near the edge. If you do you will regrind the blade before you finish. Tip looks good.
I would start honing, but that is because I care about performance more than looks.
Phil
I would start honing, but that is because I care about performance more than looks.
Phil
Interesting take on reworking the toe... i like it... nice job.
Thank you Miss James. I have also seen Mother's rubbing compounds suggested as well. Our local Walmart carries it so that is an option. We also have a Hobby Lobby and they may carry the jeweler's rouge bars you mention. Eventually I am going to have to find something like the Dico products. At least I suspect so. Your razor looks pretty darned good to me though. Thank you for the response.
Regards, Todd
Regards, Todd
- Thread starter
- #32
Well hones are months away. Until I'm totally resettled in my new digs. I was thinking that this sanding would take much longer. I'm going to go up to 600 to see how that looks. I don't mind a bit of proof of its age. Next I guess I will fiddle with scale ideas. I rubbed some Turtle Wax Super hard shell car wax on the scales and that seems to have sealed the vulcanite. Haven't gotten to snipping them off yet. They don't react to water anymore. I have some ideas for making a mold off of some scales to cast in resin.
