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Do you sand out all imperfections during a restore?

I don't have pics, but right now I'm working on an Ever Ready 100 with a red top and "yellow" bottom (I believe its really white). Anyway, its in two pieces. I glued the crack in the top, and sanded out a dremel gouge that were both my fault. I wet sanded a little on the bottom, and its turning from yellow to an off white or bone color.

Anyway, I don't want to lose the logo or the patina, and there are still knicks and such. Should I just finish up my sanding, hit it with some polish, and call it good? I've got 800, 1000, and 2000 grit paper, and Meguiars PlasticX.

What about coloring in the letters? I don't even know the knot size I'm going to get yet, as I don't have a caliper.
 

JCinPA

The Lather Maestro
No answer to that. Some like the patina and look of use that comes with age, feeling it is character. Others want a 'new' brush. There is no right way, you choose.

See what can be done with Porp's beautifull 300PBT restore, though. Stunning!
 
I think this is likely a topic that fits into YMMV territory. I personally sit on the fence on this one. On one hand a "brand new" look on a brush is neat but at the same time you're restoring an antique so wouldn't you want it to look it? I think I would generally sand out major nicks in the handle but leave minor ones and then move up the grits and the polish. But I've done one where I made it as "new" as possible and I really like the look of it, outside of the lettering which I should really go back and paint. That one is even a bit customized actually, really a neat brush. I'll find the link for ya.

Here it is. This one is pic heavy for sure. It was a lot of fun.

To answer your question on the lettering: pickup some testor's enamel paint from a hobby shop and the follow this thread: this is a great thread by a great guy
 
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