Do you need different sharpness levels for different beard types?

[Relativo]

I've been thinking about this for a while. Watching various honing vids. Watching different shaving vids.

I’ve been examining my own experiences and have come to the conclusion that maybe different beard types require different edges and sharpness.

For example, I have a VERY tough beard and can’t help but wonder that I’d need an edge that is sharper and more durable than someone who has a fine beard? Would a person with a fine beard hone to a particular sharpness which works for them but would not shave someone like me with a thick beard and sensitive skin?

Any thoughts from the more experienced here?

 

[Ookla The Mok]

A sparse thin beard needs the same thing as a thick burly one, a sharp edge. Even with the thinnest of beards, a slightly duller blade is going to lead to discomfort and a poor shave. When the blade isn't as sharp as it should be, it leads to increasing the angle and increasing the amount of pressure used. Both of those are a disaster for comfort. It has been said that the additional heft of a stiffer grind like a wedge of 1/4 hollow will make for a better shave on a thicker beard, but I am of the belief that if your edge is sharp enough any grind should give you a great shave.

 

[Thebigspendur]

Yes, sharp is sharp. A straight needs to be as sharp as possible without overdoing it no matter the beard type.

 

[richmondesi]

Yes, sharp is sharp. A straight needs to be as sharp as possible without overdoing it no matter the beard type.

Exactly right!

 

[mparker762]

For example, I have a VERY tough beard and can’t help but wonder that I’d need an edge that is sharper and more durable than someone who has a fine beard? Would a person with a fine beard hone to a particular sharpness which works for them but would not shave someone like me with a thick beard and sensitive skin?

Just because someone can shave a thin beard with a duller blade doesn't necessarily mean that they should. Sharp blades FTW, thin or heavy doesn't matter. A sharp blade that will comfortably shave a heavy beard will also comfortably shave a thin beard. However, there are personal preferences at play here not only with the sharpness but also the smoothness of the edge, but that seems to be fairly orthogonal to beard type.

 

[English]

The only difference between men with a tough beard and or a slight beard is the blade will dull wrather more quickly the more it has to cut.

But cutting is cutting and sharp is sharp. If it ain't sharp it won't cut and you will tend to get either a poor shave or razor burn.

Sometimes extra weight to a razor adds extra heft and the cutting is easier.
My beard is not too heavy and I find that if a razor is too heavy, I tend to get too close a shave as I let the blade do the work. I like close, but I also like to shave daily and too close ruins the next mornings shave. There's a balance in all of these things.

Razors get heavier for three reasons.
The spine is thicker and sometimes deeper, adding weight.
The blade can be wider or longer, adding weight.
The grind can go from full hollow to full wedge, adding extra weight.

It's a matter of trial and error to find the weight you are comfortable with.

Interestingly enough, the weight of a razor is not usually given in the sales specification. But I'd say 50 grams is everage, 75grams and more is getting quite heavy. I'm sure some of the big wedgy 1" or more cleavers are over 100 grams. I must admit that when I see them, I always think they were for advertising and not for use. But some guys love them. Many many guys like the 4/8" full hollows and more so in Europe. Easy to use under the nose and they take a very sharp edge.

It's so confusing when you are starting out and to be honest, nobody can give the answers, it's a matter of trial and error until you hit perfection.