DE Razors: Old School vs. New School

[Mason_07]

I'm about 2.5 months or so into my wet shaving journey. Due to internet research, I started with an EJ DE89. I transitioned into wet shaving after 13+ years of using an electric (no pre/post shave prep / creams / oils etc... and no razor burn). So, needless to say, my first month of transitioning to a DE was quite rough. After taking the time to find the right blade for me (Feather & Gillette 7 O'Clock Black), improving lather /brush skills, reducing pressure on razor when shaving, and learning the many directions of my hair growth (especially on my neck), things started improving drastically after month 1. I now can get very comfortable irritation free shaves with my EJ DE89. I currently do a two pass shave (WTG & XTG). I find that this gets things close enough for me (I don't really feel the need right now for completely BBS....although i'm still experimenting with my things).

As all of this learning was taking place, I quickly got intrigued with the history of DE razors, and all of the beautiful options with vintage Gillettes that are readily available. I've acquired over 20 Gillette DE razors, ranging from 1918 up through the 1970's (and every decade in between). Out of those razors, I've recently tried several:

-Late 40's Arisocrat
-Gillette New
-Fat Handled Tech

I also have a Fatboy which I plan to try soon as well. The reason that i'm writing this post, is because each of the vintage razors i've tried (although beautiful in appearance) - have not touched the smooth close/clean and irritation free shave which my EJ DE89 provides. The number of nicks increases, the leftover spots requiring touch ups increase, and in some cases I notice the razor almost "skipping" in places where it meets thick stubble. Part of the issue could be that the DE89 has a lot of weight behind it. You can get away with applying no pressure because the razor head / handle combination do the work. The other razors (particularly the New & Tech) seem MUCH lighter and I can't seem to get away with this same technique I use with the EJ. I also find that I have to shave with these other razors in more of a "forgiving" direction. I can't be quite as aggressive in my 2nd pass as I can with my DE89. If/when I do, that's when I end up with quite a bit of irritation in those tricky areas of my neck.

So - Is this just a matter of different razors requiring the user to take time to learn different technique in order to use them efficiently?
Or, is it a matter of modern technology/design outperforming the vintage razors that set the foundation for new/improved EJ designs?

I've played around with some different blades in these, but that doesn't seem to be the issue so much. If I start going with a blade that isn't as sharp as the Feather or Gillette, the shave quality and tugging become an issue. It seems from my initial impressions, that either: 1) The vintage razors just don't perform as well as the EJ DE89, or 2) I need to take time to completely learn new techniques for each of these razors in order to use them to their optimum efficiency.

Granted, I still haven't tried a number of popular models such as the Adjustables (Fatboy / slim) or the Super Speeds. The razors I have tried so far however are considered by many to be some of Gillette's finest...

What are your thoughts/experiences comparing the EJ DE89 to vintage razors in your rotation?

 

[Mick]

I haven't come across a razor that I could not enjoy using.

I guess I would have to be considered a shaving %$&#

 

[Dalejr]

I'm all for anything old school, it's a way of connecting with the past.

 

[Dave Deluxe]

I find my best shaves also come from current production DE razors. Like you I find I get excellent results from the EJ89 and even better results from a current production Slant razor. I use those most of time even though I have a number of vintage Gillettes that I occasionally use. The other razors that give me exceptional shaves are also of the vintage variety but they are SE razors, Gem & Ever Ready. They (the SE's) provide a "barbershop quality" shave with very little effort. Between the two modern production DE's cited above & the SE's, the Vintage Gillettes really take a back seat and I don't see that changing.

DD

 

[Stampede]

I started out with the EJ DE89 as well. While I got a decent shave I did get some irritation starting out. Even before I got my technique worked out with the EJ I tried a Gillette Old Type OC and to my surprise I got a BBS irritation free shave with my first attempt with the vintage Gillette. I also get a great shave from my Gillette Tech with the triangular holes in the base plate. I now can get a BBS irritation free shave with the EJ as well. I guess what I am trying to say is that it is mostly technique. Every razor is different however, if you are careful and get angle and pressure right it is almost inevitable that you will get good or even great shave. Some razors will just suit you better for whatever reason be it looks, feel or just personal preference. It will take a little investment in time to get used to the individual characteristics of any new (to you) razor. I love the vintage Gillette Razors, especially the OC's. They will always be in my rotation. I now have about 30 razors after just 2 months in..... Can you say RAD??? I am still looking for that magical razor and blade combination that leads me to shaving Nirvana.

 

[Equus]

While I really like my EJ89 a lot, I get a bit more consistent and effortless shaves with any of my Techs.

 

[zygalski]

2.5 months...
What an awesome collection!

 

[BotSpanx]

Most people that are familiar with my posts know that I don't really have much love for the vintage shaving gear. I haven't found a vintage adjustable that gets the job done as well, or as comfortably as a Progress, and I have my issues with the Progress. As far as non-adjustables go, my experience is limited to Super Speeds, an Old-type, and a Tech. I just finished my testing period with the Tech last week and I absolutely LOATH it. After much attention to technique, blades, shims, etc., it continued to take me a minimum of three passes plus touch-up to do what the DE89 gets me in two. In fact, for every vintage razor I've tried, I've found a modern equivalent that outperforms it. YMMV, blah, blah, blah.

Many here are interested in the history and nostalgia of vintage hardware, which I totally get. I have more vintage bike parts than anyone should. However, modern manufacturing tech and tolerances yield a more consistent product and in many cases, a more functional one, whether it be DE razors, or derailleurs. Since I transitioned to DE shaving to find a better shave, I gravitate toward the newer designs and newer casting/forging protocols. Some say that the vintage razors are higher quality, which I strongly disagree with. Zamak is not the best material, but if you're dropping a brass razor on the tile, you're still going to throw it out of whack and change its shaving characteristics. The difference is that I can get another DE89 whenever I please and trust that it will be exactly the same as the last one. If superior material is your mantra, nothing beats stainless steel. A material which, thankfully, has found its way into a number of extremely high quality razors in the last few years.

 

[JaxJim]

I haven't come across a razor that I could not enjoy using.

I guess I would have to be considered a shaving %$&#

I'm in Mick's camp-- I've yet to try a razor that I didn't like, vintage or currently in production. Sure, I enjoy some more than others, but I loathe none.

Variety plays a big part in the enjoyment I get from this hobby. I rarely shave with the same razor two days in a row, and while my technique no doubt would improve if I'd stick to just one, that just wouldn't be as much fun as going with a Fat Boy on Monday, a Futur on Tuesday, a Damaskeene on Wednesday, and so on.

 

[kingfisher]

Totally the opposite for me. The DE89 is one of the worst razors I've ever used. It cuts closely enough, and it feels great while I'm shaving, but afterwards I am left with much more irritation than I get with my Fatboy.

I got rid of all my razors except 6. Four of them are vintage razors. Only the FaTip and the Progress, of my modern razors, made the cut.

 

[shavefreak]

I think you will find the fatboy stepping up closer to EJ DB-89 than the other razors. Setting for setting I like the feel of the EJ, balance and weight, but the EJ can't dial down if you want something a little milder. I think you will use them both. Now getting into the SE razors is another direction you could go. Grabbing a nice 1912 gem or ever ready should not cost much to try or if you want to go all out try an ever ready streamline from the 30's. Incredible SE razor.

 

[mdevine]

Early into DE shaving, I tried a ball-end Tech a handful of times. I found the shaves to be awful in that nothing I tried would give a close shave. About a year later, I threw it in my Dopp kit for a trip out of country, figuring that I wouldn't be out much if it somehow disappeared. Much to my surprise, it gave me great shaves during the trip. Since it was clear that the razor hadn't changed, it was obvious that my technique had improved over the previous year. Along with a Weber Bulldog ARC, my pre-war Fat Handled Tech has become my favorite razor. I recommend that you put the Tech in the drawer and come back to it after a while. There is a reason so many were sold through the years, and that quite a few B&B members like them so much.

Mike

 

[santamariasteve]

Early into DE shaving, I tried a ball-end Tech a handful of times. I found the shaves to be awful in that nothing I tried would give a close shave. About a year later, I threw it in my Dopp kit for a trip out of country, figuring that I wouldn't be out much if it somehow disappeared. Much to my surprise, it gave me great shaves during the trip. Since it was clear that the razor hadn't changed, it was obvious that my technique had improved over the previous year. Along with a Weber Bulldog ARC, my pre-war Fat Handled Tech has become my favorite razor. I recommend that you put the Tech in the drawer and come back to it after a while. There is a reason so many were sold through the years, and that quite a few B&B members like them so much.

Mike

Have you considered the possibility that when you took your trip maybe the water was softer, and the soft water was responsible for your Tech performing better than previously? I live in a hard water area, and I find that soft water enhances the performance of any razor.

 

[mdevine]

Have you considered the possibility that when you took your trip maybe the water was softer, and the soft water was responsible for your Tech performing better than previously? I live in a hard water area, and I find that soft water enhances the performance of any razor.

I've used the razor at least 100 times since getting back from Mexico. While the thought makes sense, I'm sure my technique was the problem and not the water.

Mike

 

[BubblesTGB]

I guess I am in the camp of liking every razor that I try. I do , however, appreciate each razor for what it is and is capable of - at least I am learning to as my journey progresses.

The one that I started off with was a new Merkur 38 which provides really awesome shaves. I have zero complaints. From what I understand, this is a similar razor to your EJ DE89.

Then I bought a 1977 super adjustable because that is my birth year and it is a really solid razor - love it. If I crank it past 6-7, it is more aggressive than the Merkur. So, assuming I have good technique, I would hypothetically be able to get a closer shave. I'm still working on technique, so I haven't gone past 7 yet.

Blue is my favorite color and this is an embarrassing story. While I was still a very green noob (5 weeks ago ha ha), I decided I wanted a Gillette Blue Tip because I love the color blue. I found one in awesome shape on The Bay and I shaved with it using a number of different blades. It always gave me a CCS but I couldn't figure out why it didn't seem to shave as closely as the others. Then I did the reading that I should have done to begin with and found out that the blue tip is the mild variant of the flair tip. No wonder my shaves didn't seem as close. D'oh!! Still a great razor and now I am looking for a red tip.

For travel, I have a Travel Tech that I find mild, but really perfect to throw in the travel kit that I am making. Another good vintage razor.

Right now, I am not actually looking for any modern razors. I would like to find a 1942 Gillette from my father's birth year.

So - as has been said - I like shaving with any razor I can get my hands on. I have also come to realize that it is important to know what each razor can and cannot do. That way, the expectations will be in line with what the razor can deliver.

P.S. OP - Shout out to Norwood and the Automile. Lived in MA for the first 32 years of my life.

 

[tm3]

mason you and i have a similar history. i started "proper" wetshaving about 7-8 years ago after using mostly electric razors. i kept a couple of electrics and used them primarily for mowing off multi-day growths. about a year ago i had a change of heart and went back to electric shaving. applying the principles that i had learned with wetshaving as far as prep and technique, the quality of my "new" electric shaves compared to my "old" was like night and day. i can get 90% of the quality of a wet shave in about 1/3 of the time, but wetshaving is just overall more fun.

anyway, per your question i don't have the DE89 but do have several merkurs as well as some beautiful vintage gillettes that family members passed to me because they know that i like "those old timey razors." the shaves that i have gotten from the vintages razors have not been nearly as good as the ones that i have gotten from the merkurs. my theory is that i just have not spent enough time using the vintage razors exclusively to hone the exact technique. my alternative theory is that some people just adapt to some tools better than others and the gillettes may not be a good "fit" for me.

it is fun to try the different options and see which ones hit it out of the park.

 

[celestino]

As has been stated, every razor reacts differently with each person. You just might not get on with the vintage ones. i don't either, but they do provide a great shave for many. Don't worry about it as there are so many great modern ones out there. Enjoy the new ones.

 

[KCee]

I have more "love" for my vintage razors, but the EJ89 is a more consistent performer for me. I've only been DE shaving for about 5 months so I'm still learning, but I find the EJ89 to be nearly idiotproof no matter what blade I load in it. I've gotten better shaves from some of my other razors, but not as consistently; I don't think I've had a bad shave with the EJ. I own a Fat Boy, 60's Super Speed, Slim, Black Beauty, New LC, Ikon OC, Fatip and probably a few more I'm forgetting at the moment. They all have their highlights, but the EJ89 is like the ultimate utility player. Maybe not great in any one category, but very, very good all around.

 

[Mason_07]

Thanks for all of the comments and feedback everyone. I plan to stick with these and do my best to learn to get a good shave with most / all of the vintage ones that I plan to use for shaving (as opposed to purely collecting). I'm sure that a large part of this is related to the fact that I'm still learning and also that I need more exclusive time with each razor to fine tune my technique and maximize my efficiency with each.