I started shaving with a DE about 6 weeks ago and got the sampler pack from WCS. I know what my preferences are with blades, and I know others share the same preference or even hate the ones I like. So, I've been wondering if the differences are technique or if there really are differences in the blades. I did find some things that I think are interesting - especially when considering comb type. So:
I looked at the Red Personna Platinum, Derby, Merkur Super Platinum, Israeli Crystal, Feather, and Dorco 301. I used a dial caliper to measure the thickness, an optical loop to look at the edge and corners, and just used my fingers to get a feel for the stiffness when bending and torquing the blades. I know the "finger" technique is subjective, but you can feel and see a difference between "some" of the blades.
All blades are so close in variance in the thickness between blades in the same box that I couldn't find a measurable difference with the caliper. But there was a difference between manufacturers. I don't have a way of evaluating the differences in metallurgy, even small amounts of carbon or nickel can affect stainless steel significantly, so I would expect that the metal used for the blades is not identical.
All blades are ~0.1mm (just under .004in). The Merkurs were the thinnest at about 0.09mm, the Feather, Crystal, Personna, and Dorco were all right at 0.1mm, and the Derby was just over that - say 0.11mm.
The Feather and Merkur are clearly the most flexible. The Crystal and Dorco are seemingly identical in feel (and size, and finish). The Personna is a little stiffer when flexing than the Crystal - but not significantly. The Derby was the stiffest.
When I was inspecting the blades with the loop - something really jumped out. The finish of the corners ranged from all being rounded to all being a sharp point.
The Feather had rounded/finished corners on all 8 blades. The Crystal and Dorco had 1 blade with a sharp corner out of every 3. The Personna had 5 blades with rounded corners, 3 blades with 1 sharp corner, and 1 blade with all sharp corners. The Derby had 2 blades in 9 that had 2 sharp corners. The Merkur had all 10 blades with sharp corners.
So, how would any of this matter. I have an open comb Merkur 12C and a closed comb Edwin Jagger 89L. When you look at the end of the Merkur heads (which both of these razors have), the head of the open comb razor presses down on the blade to the comb. The edge of the blade extends about 1.5mm (1/16") into the comb - but the blade is supported all along the edge up to the extension. The closed comb is supported by a bar (pedestal ?) underneath the blade and the head above it. When a blade sits in a closed comb razor, the act of dragging it along the face will allow it to flex - probably to fit the face. When an open comb blade drags along your face, it has less ability to conform to your face, but allows for hitting a specific point along the edge.
So, my conclusions, and YMMV, are:
If you have a razor which protects your skin from the corners of the blade - and I think the older TTO Gillettes are like this - you should be able to use the Merkurs and have a great shave. If your razor doesn't protect the corners, the slightest lateral motion will probably nick you. Because of the flexibility though, a closed comb razor could cut you because of the less support along the length of the blade's edge. Technique could overcome both of these risks, and I'm finding that the results are becoming more alike as I get more experienced with each razor.
The Feather blade has the same flexibility problem as the Merkur if you have rough or tight skin. You won't have the corner problem with either an open or closed razor. An open comb razor will also reduce the flexing along the edge - as will experienced technique with a closed comb.
I would say that the transition from the other blades to a Feather or Merkur is the biggest jump. So, the first shave with either could be a bad experience. Once familiarity increases, there are fewer quality variables with the Feather, and both will be more effective with advanced shaving techniques because of the flexibility.
The Derby, being the stiffest, should give a great shave in a closed comb razor if the corners aren't pointed. This would be especially true if the shaver has rough skin and a light touch. I don't know if stropping could "ease" the corners or not. I can't measure closely enough to see if the Derby results in a greater gap in the open combed razors than the more flexible blades.
The Crystal, Dorco, and Personna are in between the others, with the Crystal and Dorco having the fewest sharp corners. I can see how they would be better than the flexible blades in a closed comb razor in newbie hands. Also, the quality differences between these blades and the more expensive blades may not justify the expense. The Crystal and Dorco just feel like the same blade, and very, very similar to the Feather/Merkur - but again, there may be other variables that I just can't/didn't measure.
I don't have a way to measure "sharpness". It could be the finish/polish of the edge, the shape of the edge, or the thickness of the edge. Assumptions need to be made somewhere and I would assume that part of the higher cost would be in the finish of the edge - and the Feather is noticeably better finished. I don't like all the glue that is on the Feather blades to keep them in the wrapper though. The Merkur is also very nicely finished except for the corners. I can see where different comb types can give very different results for the same blade - based on the experience of the user. I'm not sure that the differences in the blades would be significant enough in the hands of an experienced user, with their most used razor - except for the sharp corners.
That's what I've noticed. Hope it helps.
I looked at the Red Personna Platinum, Derby, Merkur Super Platinum, Israeli Crystal, Feather, and Dorco 301. I used a dial caliper to measure the thickness, an optical loop to look at the edge and corners, and just used my fingers to get a feel for the stiffness when bending and torquing the blades. I know the "finger" technique is subjective, but you can feel and see a difference between "some" of the blades.
All blades are so close in variance in the thickness between blades in the same box that I couldn't find a measurable difference with the caliper. But there was a difference between manufacturers. I don't have a way of evaluating the differences in metallurgy, even small amounts of carbon or nickel can affect stainless steel significantly, so I would expect that the metal used for the blades is not identical.
All blades are ~0.1mm (just under .004in). The Merkurs were the thinnest at about 0.09mm, the Feather, Crystal, Personna, and Dorco were all right at 0.1mm, and the Derby was just over that - say 0.11mm.
The Feather and Merkur are clearly the most flexible. The Crystal and Dorco are seemingly identical in feel (and size, and finish). The Personna is a little stiffer when flexing than the Crystal - but not significantly. The Derby was the stiffest.
When I was inspecting the blades with the loop - something really jumped out. The finish of the corners ranged from all being rounded to all being a sharp point.
The Feather had rounded/finished corners on all 8 blades. The Crystal and Dorco had 1 blade with a sharp corner out of every 3. The Personna had 5 blades with rounded corners, 3 blades with 1 sharp corner, and 1 blade with all sharp corners. The Derby had 2 blades in 9 that had 2 sharp corners. The Merkur had all 10 blades with sharp corners.
So, how would any of this matter. I have an open comb Merkur 12C and a closed comb Edwin Jagger 89L. When you look at the end of the Merkur heads (which both of these razors have), the head of the open comb razor presses down on the blade to the comb. The edge of the blade extends about 1.5mm (1/16") into the comb - but the blade is supported all along the edge up to the extension. The closed comb is supported by a bar (pedestal ?) underneath the blade and the head above it. When a blade sits in a closed comb razor, the act of dragging it along the face will allow it to flex - probably to fit the face. When an open comb blade drags along your face, it has less ability to conform to your face, but allows for hitting a specific point along the edge.
So, my conclusions, and YMMV, are:
If you have a razor which protects your skin from the corners of the blade - and I think the older TTO Gillettes are like this - you should be able to use the Merkurs and have a great shave. If your razor doesn't protect the corners, the slightest lateral motion will probably nick you. Because of the flexibility though, a closed comb razor could cut you because of the less support along the length of the blade's edge. Technique could overcome both of these risks, and I'm finding that the results are becoming more alike as I get more experienced with each razor.
The Feather blade has the same flexibility problem as the Merkur if you have rough or tight skin. You won't have the corner problem with either an open or closed razor. An open comb razor will also reduce the flexing along the edge - as will experienced technique with a closed comb.
I would say that the transition from the other blades to a Feather or Merkur is the biggest jump. So, the first shave with either could be a bad experience. Once familiarity increases, there are fewer quality variables with the Feather, and both will be more effective with advanced shaving techniques because of the flexibility.
The Derby, being the stiffest, should give a great shave in a closed comb razor if the corners aren't pointed. This would be especially true if the shaver has rough skin and a light touch. I don't know if stropping could "ease" the corners or not. I can't measure closely enough to see if the Derby results in a greater gap in the open combed razors than the more flexible blades.
The Crystal, Dorco, and Personna are in between the others, with the Crystal and Dorco having the fewest sharp corners. I can see how they would be better than the flexible blades in a closed comb razor in newbie hands. Also, the quality differences between these blades and the more expensive blades may not justify the expense. The Crystal and Dorco just feel like the same blade, and very, very similar to the Feather/Merkur - but again, there may be other variables that I just can't/didn't measure.
I don't have a way to measure "sharpness". It could be the finish/polish of the edge, the shape of the edge, or the thickness of the edge. Assumptions need to be made somewhere and I would assume that part of the higher cost would be in the finish of the edge - and the Feather is noticeably better finished. I don't like all the glue that is on the Feather blades to keep them in the wrapper though. The Merkur is also very nicely finished except for the corners. I can see where different comb types can give very different results for the same blade - based on the experience of the user. I'm not sure that the differences in the blades would be significant enough in the hands of an experienced user, with their most used razor - except for the sharp corners.
That's what I've noticed. Hope it helps.
