I just got two strips of leather in the mail. both 3"x42". one latigo and the other english bridle. both are quite thick. whats the best way to cut these? would a common utility knife work?
best way to cut leather
- Thread starter dreaded_rust
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- #3
no I'm talking about just cutting it down to a shorter length. the 3" width and the thickness are both fine, but it seems it may be dificult to cut because it is so thick.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
An ordinary utility or box cutter type knife with a fresh blade will work just fine. You might want to clamp a straight edge across it for a guide. If you want to dress the edge nice and straight, clamp it between two pieces of wood and then sand the edge of this whole sandwich. Finally, lightly chamfer the edge with a sanding block.
42"? Pretty long, yeah. So you got a lot to play with. Whatever method is at hand, try just cutting off a half inch or so and see how it comes out. But I think a sharp utility knife blade will work great.
42"? Pretty long, yeah. So you got a lot to play with. Whatever method is at hand, try just cutting off a half inch or so and see how it comes out. But I think a sharp utility knife blade will work great.
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- #5
thats a good idea with the clamping. thanks for the advice .
yeah I figured 42" would be enough to possibly get two strops from each. dont know what I'm goin to do w/ 4 strops, maybe I'll toss one on BST
yeah I figured 42" would be enough to possibly get two strops from each. dont know what I'm goin to do w/ 4 strops, maybe I'll toss one on BST
I just cut a 5" wide piece into two 2-1/2" wide pieces. A utility knife and metal straight edge will work fine. Mine was 3/16" thick--pretty thick. Do not attempt to cut through all the leather in one pass. Make a few light passes instead. What I did was mark both the front and back where I wanted to cut it. Two passes on each side did the trick, and meant that the final, severing pass took place in the middle of the leather's thickness, which tended to reinforce the leather, rather than cause tear-out.
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I would make a few practice cuts. It was harder than I though to make a nice clean square cut even with a straight edge.
Clamp a straight edge or square across the leather, use a fresh blade in your utility knife and do not try to cut through in one pass unless you want the cut edge running at some odd angle. The knife will wander if you try to take to large of a cut. if cutting a light colored piece of leather like veg tanned wipe the protective oil off of a new blade first or else you will lightly stain the edge.
With the finished cut piece laying on a table take a kitchen spoon and run if firmly down each long edge to slightly burnish it and break the sharp corner. You want to mash the very corner down ever so slightly to make a neater job and to reduce the chance of fine edge nicks.
As Ken has said too, sacrifice a 1/4" or 1/2" off of one end and try a practice cut or two first so your real cut comes out well.
It is very satisfying to make your own gear.
Enjoy,
Tony
With the finished cut piece laying on a table take a kitchen spoon and run if firmly down each long edge to slightly burnish it and break the sharp corner. You want to mash the very corner down ever so slightly to make a neater job and to reduce the chance of fine edge nicks.
As Ken has said too, sacrifice a 1/4" or 1/2" off of one end and try a practice cut or two first so your real cut comes out well.
It is very satisfying to make your own gear.
Enjoy,
Tony
To add to what Tony said above, there is a tool I use on thick leather that shaves a slight bevel the sharp corner. It looks like a little V shaped chisel. I bought mine second hand on ebay. Tony's way is probably easier for you if you are only making a couple though.
To add to what Tony said above, there is a tool I use on thick leather that shaves a slight bevel the sharp corner. It looks like a little V shaped chisel. I bought mine second hand on ebay. Tony's way is probably easier for you if you are only making a couple though.
What's the size on that edge beveller, if you don't mind? Or more generally, what would be best for a razor strop? I'm thinking around #2.
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Nice to see you around Tony! Seems the demand for your strops are greater than ever!
To add to what Tony said above, there is a tool I use on thick leather that shaves a slight bevel the sharp corner. It looks like a little V shaped chisel. I bought mine second hand on ebay. Tony's way is probably easier for you if you are only making a couple though.
You can find this version at Tandy. These will work much better if you take the time to sharpen them a bit. The cutting edge often has a burr on it that will tear the leather. I would use something like this on the back side to get a nicer corner then use a plastic or bone "slicker" on the edge to round and burnish. Tandy offers a plastic slicker that looks like a wheel for a dollar or two that works wonders when rubbed briskly along the edge.
Tony
Mine needed sharpening when I got it (I assumed because it was old.) I was able to do it with folded 1k grit wet/dry paper. Now it just cuts very easily and leaves a little skinny spiral of leather behind. I know when it is sharp because I can keep the cut off strand really thin without it breaking for the length of the cut.
I'm not sure what size it is. I just bought a lot of second hand leather tools when I started. That stuff is kind of pricey new.
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- #15
I way over thought this. a simple utility knife sliced right through this stuff. I'll post a new thread in a few days after I finnish witht the first strop.. thanks for the tips guys
As a follow-up to what Tony and legion said, Tandy has some nice short videos on how to treat the edge after cutting. Just placed an order for an edge beveller, some water-based dye, and satin finish with them yesterday. On the phone, I found their customer service to be very helpful and knowledgeable. I chose the cheaper, flat edge beveller, rather than the more rounded, expensive one. There also is a video on how to sharpen this on their site. Think I'll use water and the bone-folder I already have to press the edge, rather than their slicker, since I won't be doing the backside for now.
I think half moon knives are good too.
Tandy circle slicker http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Mallets-Handtools/8122-00.aspx
Tandy wooden slicker http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Mallets-Handtools/8121-00.aspx
Tandy edge beveler http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Mallets-Handtools/8076-296.aspx
Tandy wooden slicker http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Mallets-Handtools/8121-00.aspx
Tandy edge beveler http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Mallets-Handtools/8076-296.aspx
