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Beginner coticule problem

I bought a coticule, slurry stone and BBW a while back to learn to hone. I've honed three different razors numerous times and I'm having a frequent problem that I would love to get some help with. Here is what happens.

I'm using the dilicot method except that I establish the bevel on a diamond hone because it is quicker and I have it. But from then on I am following the method as described, or at least I was. Somewhere between halfway and 2/3rds or so into the dilution phase I'll be drawing the blade along the hone, everything is fine the stone is telling me it is getting pretty stable with that level of dilution and it feels and sounds good and then I get a sound/sensation as if the blade ran over a piece of grit. After that the feel of the draw is not as satisfying and one or more additional times the same thing reoccurs. After going back to the bevel and rehoning four times in succession I looked at the edge under a dissecting scope and noticed microchips in the edge. Thinking I was doing something wrong or maybe the steel in that razor was sub par I tried another razor this time looking at the bevel and edge after each series of strokes. I even put a brand new SE blade under the scope so I could compare the edges throughout the process.

The same thing kept happening so i started being really methodical and looking at the edge after every step. Same thing, the bevel looks good after the diamond hone, the scratches on the bevel slowly disappear and are replaced by a sort of grainy eveness and the edge looks good until sometime well in to the dilution phase and then bingo, grit chip.

I started paying a lot of attention to where on the blade the chips occurred and where the edge was on the stone and I thought I narrowed it down to a place on the stone that was reproducible. At that location, which is not precise you understand, there is a darkish dot on the stone smaller than a pinhead. Here is the coticule:

View attachment 130333

And here is the dot, the white balance is off, the stone is much paler yellow in the flesh:

View attachment 130334

I don't want to blame my tools for my bad technique and I am not entirely sure of this. Maybe it is my imagination, but I was paying very close attention last time and drawing the blade really slowly and with a very light touch, and I am sure I'm not doing anything untoward to make it chip. When this first happened I thought maybe I was tilting the blade and running the edge against the stone's edge. But I know for sure that was not happening the last couple of times I had this happen. I have lapped the stone again to be sure all is flat and smooth.

To complicate matters I was able to hone a third razor without incident which adds to the uncertainty. But for two razors the problem was reproducible and always happened near the same portion of the stone (flipped it 180 a couple times to be sure) so I am wondering if it is unheard of to have a hard inclusion in a stone that periodically blebs off a large chunk that chips a blade that is nearing the sharp, delicate stage. Alternatively I guess it may not release a chip but simply raise above the surrounding stone as it wears slightly. I also feel a bit of raspiness in this part of the stone when honing, but only near the end of the dilution phase.

Any suggestions or comments? If I get time this weekend I'm going to hone one of the aforementioned razors again and a new one I just got to double check my observations. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Run something over it like your pocketknife edge in that spot and see if hear feel it. If so dig it down slightltly or lap it out. having a miniscule low spot will not affect anything. If you cant hear scratchy thats not it. Thats a beautiful stone by the way.
 
It's entirely possible that is the problem. You can try lapping it out, but I wouldn't want to dig it out. I don't think it'd cause any problems, but if I had to dig out something to make it usable, I'd probably send it back for a replacement (which if you bought if from Ardennes they'll be happy to exchange).

Quick question about the razor that didn't chip. Did you avoid that spot?
 
You have a good hypothesis, and good photos. If you did grind a divot out for that area, it should be good for some number of strokes. I can see that it might just be a permanent vertical flaw (PVF).

After some reflection, I think I agree with the idea of returning this one to Ardennes (after contacting them, of course).
 
It's entirely possible that is the problem. You can try lapping it out, but I wouldn't want to dig it out. I don't think it'd cause any problems, but if I had to dig out something to make it usable, I'd probably send it back for a replacement (which if you bought if from Ardennes they'll be happy to exchange).

Quick question about the razor that didn't chip. Did you avoid that spot?

+1 :thumbup:...try lapping it and if it doesn't work, send it back for an exchange
 
For the last razor I honed, which I am shaving with to great results, I operated on the theory that I was stressing the increasingly sharp and fragile edge and making it chip (since I couldn't remove the spot I thought I'd test an alternative hypothesis). I also had decided that this stone cuts fairly fast (never used another coticule for comparison but compared to any other stone of this grit it cuts remarkable fast). So I diluted faster. I also changed my dilution method to try to minimize variability. When I was ready to dilute I wiped the stone with a paper towel to remove 1/3 of the slurry, added water and lapped again. And midway through the process I stopped back honing and slowed waaaaay down to be very deliberate. And I used a very light touch throughout. I believe the technique calls for a pound of pressure or so, but I used as little as I could and still keep it flat on the stone.

I couldn't really avoid the suspected area but I went very lightly.

And it worked, no chips, but my gut tells me next time I use it I'll get the same problem. So I'm starting a new razor and I'll see what happens. Don't have the time to set aside for a full hone at my speed, but I got the bevel set and cutting arm hair tonight and I'll try to finish up tomorrow.

I bought the set at Best Sharpening Stones, I'll have to check into their return policy if the problem turns out to repeat itself and I'm sure it is the stone. I'm hoping it is just my technique, I really have bonded with this stone after about 10 honing repetitions and would hate to start over. But I guess all coticules have that sensual combination of fine abrasiveness and silky glide and auditory and tactile feedback. It is hypnotic.
 
Just a thought... a pound of pressure seems like a lot. IIRC ,Bart recommends something like 1/2 that... in the 200 to 300 g range.

I've spent a bit of time working with a stone on top of a set of kitchen scales and so I know i tend to use even less... If I've got a razor that is prone to chipping, the first thing I try is to use even less pressure than that.
 
Did the weight from (bad) memory in my post. When I was honing I had the technique on my Iphone while I was doing it so I was following his instructions to the letter. Still I could have been using too much weight. The timing and location of the chipping was so repeatable I came to suspect an anomaly in the stone but it is still possible that my strokes were uneven and so put additional weight in the same point of the stroke. I'll repeat honing on one of the chipping blades (shaves OK but leaves irritated skin for obvious reasons so it needs a rehone), and this new one and report back.
 
My first biggest hurdle in getting an edge through dilucot was too much slurry to start off with. My second biggest hurdle was too much pressure during half strokes, and this one is definitely more noticeable by sound and feel. I know Bart says to use some pressure, and to weigh it, but really you're not exerting actual pressure onto the razor with your finger. More like just resting the finger there to further guide it along. Just the simple weight of your finger will do just fine, and is usually the pointer I use. Best to err on the side of caution. Also, if your Coti is like mine at all, you'd know if there was an inclusion in it preventing you from honing correctly. If it's anything like the one in mine, you hear and feel the blade scrape, and it's an awful noise and feeling.
 
You may want to read this thread.

Kind regards,
Bart.

PS. I still haven't figured out what B&B's policy is on sending people to off-site information on other boards. I hope it's okay to do, if the information is relevant. I have done and will continue to point in the reverse direction also.
 
You may want to read this thread.

Kind regards,
Bart.

PS. I still haven't figured out what B&B's policy is on sending people to off-site information on other boards. I hope it's okay to do, if the information is relevant. I have done and will continue to point in the reverse direction also.


Thanks Bart, that at least confirms I may not be totally deluded. I am reluctant to blame the tool until I'm sure it isn't me so I'm going to find some honing time this week and have another go. I don't mind carving a small hole if need be, part of working with a natural stone I think.

Can you tell what type coticule it is from the picture? As a former geology major I find the details of the stones and variation fascinating. The characteristics of this formation are being analyzed with a subtlety and precision that is rarely matched. Neat stuff and compelling nerdy fun.
 
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Well, we are getting to the time of year when light for photography isn't widely available at 58 N. I'll try this weekend if we don't have horizontal rain and gusts to 50 on my deck. Time to stay indoors, read and obsess over things I can do on the kitchen counter.
 
Had a few more hours with the coti. I put it under the scope and poked around at the suspect place and it didn't seem hard at all. In fact, at 60 power the place seemed soft and caramelly when I poked it with the pin. The whole surface was very soft at that scale and easily yielded to the pin head.

Honed a couple more razors being very deliberate and paying close attention to the feel and edge. Got one done pretty well, the other chipped. Went back to to the technique description on Bart's site and reproduced it step for step with the same results. Frustration, then I decided to watch the video again and lo and behold I noticed that he is 1) holding the stone in his hand and 2) using one hand. Eureka.

I had been putting the stone on a counter top at a convenient height to keep it steady and flat and I was using the finger of my left hand to gently press down on the blade. I had figured with two hands I could keep the blade flat on the hone better.

Apparently not. I switched to using one hand while holding the stone in the other and got much better results. I think the hand holding the stone flexes to compensate for variations in the balance by the one holding the blade. Honed up three razors tonight and they all look good, two of them pop hairs. The third is a Torrey that is maybe a 1/2 hollow grind. Don't know if it is because of the thicker blade or maybe the steel is harder but it takes more time to hone and I haven't quite got it really sharp. Shaves well with the grain but pulls badly XTG. More work to do, but at least I'm on the right track now. Need to work on my finishing. I'd like to get my HHT test past the popping stage, but I think getting really good at honing will be easier than getting really good at the HHT test.

I'm happy it was just my technique causing problems, I like that little rock. I'll be in the market for a narrower stone soon, several of my razors are not perfectly straight and don't want to sit on the hone flat. Here are photos of my coti in case there is anyone who can tell me what type it is. Doesn't really matter I suppose, just curious.

View attachment 131475

View attachment 131476
 
sounds like you're doing really well! Great!
I find in my modest collection that there are a few razors that seem to need a trip back to the stone to get the edge where I need it. I start with just a couple light rubs with the slurry stone, and do another very patient set of dilutions, starting from a very light, misty slurry.
Sometimes I think it's a harder steel and just needs a little more work. Wide bevels i find can take a bit more work too.
 
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