There's a lot of great advice on this forum, but there's a lot of well intentioned advice that I don't agree with. Here's Bad Wet Shaving Advice: Part 2
Part 1:
Part 1:
I have to say I still think advising a newbie of no pressure is good advise and it’s what works for me. I know the razors weight is applying pressure but whenever I add any extra pressure of my own it always gives a little more irritation of some sort. Perhaps other people are different but for me any extra added pressure isn’t worth it.
I know with light razors you have to apply pressure so the no pressure advise doesn’t work but that’s also why I recommend heavy razors and can’t stand light razors. I really don’t understand why people like them. If I take the same razor design one is lightweight aluminum and I add my own pressure, the other SS and I don’t apply extra pressure - the results for me is a smoother shave on the heavier design that doesn’t cause irritation. Maybe others are better at applying even amounts of pressure than I am.
The only other disagreement I have is the water temp. I agree it doesn’t make a difference for shaving performance as far as the lather or shaving goes but where it does seem to make a difference is opening or closing your pores? That’s why a shave after a hot shower works so well for me. I also turn on the hot water and rub hot water into my face for 30 seconds with hair conditioner to keep my face warm and as soon as I’m done washing the conditioner off my face with the hot water I apply my cream/soap.
Before I start shaving I leave the razor head under the running hot water for a few seconds to warm the razor and blade up although I can’t say if that helps but it’s a habit I started. I also let the water run as I shave and after every stroke or two I run the razors head under the water so more water gets on my face for lubrication. I doubt it would matter too much if it was hot or cold at this point but I leave it on hot.
And lastly after the shave is complete I turn the cold water on and pat the cold water into my face for 20-30 seconds to cool it down. I find this helps a little with irritation and produces far less sting if you didn’t get a good shave when applying alum or alcohol/witch hazel. I usually use witch hazel in a squirt bottle and spray it on my hand and rub it into my face.
For blades I’d definitely have to agree that a blade that works well in one razor almost always works well in another and that most blades are very similar. I’ve had a couple occasions where a certain razor didn’t like a certain blade but that is very rare for me and may be due to other variables. All of that said, I do love testing out new blades. Certain ones really stand out to me but for the most part 95% of the ones I’ve shaved with I could use everyday and be happy with.
I appreciate your advice here. Skin, even stretched skin, doesn't present a flat surface to the razor. Using absolutely no pressure means only a tiny piece of skin is in contact with the razor. If you want the full razor's width to contact skin, you have to use pressure. (The guard will do the job for you in most razor designs.)Thanks for the comment!
Regarding pressure, my point is that there must be pressure to shave. Whether it comes from the weight of the razor or from your hand, you need pressure. And the amount of pressure you need to add changes depending on the razor. Even “heavy” razors may need some pressure. A 90g razor is still “heavy”, but not as heavy as a 120g one so why use the same pressure? We get a lot of customers who have bad results because they’re scared to add pressure due to this hard rule.
Light razors give you more options. We have a video about the benefits of titanium that addresses this. Heavy razors have the pressure set for you - you can’t turn it off or reduce it. Lighter razors let you dial the pressure up or down to increase or decrease blade engagement and efficiency. It’s very helpful when wielded skillfully.
The water temp point refers only to the temp of the water while shaving. I think a hot shower for prep is important, but the temp you use to lather doesn’t matter.
I wonder if he no pressure mantra may be due to many modern DE razors being more aggressive than the classic vintage tools sold in the mid 20th century. Some Gillette razor instructions from the 1960's only mention using light strokes due to the plastic (teflon?) coatings on the blades of the time. This implies a need for heavier pressure in the past. Most of their instructions of the time make no mention of pressure.Thanks for the comment!
Regarding pressure, my point is that there must be pressure to shave. Whether it comes from the weight of the razor or from your hand, you need pressure. And the amount of pressure you need to add changes depending on the razor. Even “heavy” razors may need some pressure. A 90g razor is still “heavy”, but not as heavy as a 120g one so why use the same pressure? We get a lot of customers who have bad results because they’re scared to add pressure due to this hard rule.
Light razors give you more options. We have a video about the benefits of titanium that addresses this. Heavy razors have the pressure set for you - you can’t turn it off or reduce it. Lighter razors let you dial the pressure up or down to increase or decrease blade engagement and efficiency. It’s very helpful when wielded skillfully.
The water temp point refers only to the temp of the water while shaving. I think a hot shower for prep is important, but the temp you use to lather doesn’t matter.
I wonder if he no pressure mantra may be due to many modern DE razors being more aggressive than the classic vintage tools sold in the mid 20th century. Some Gillette razor instructions from the 1960's only mention using light strokes due to the plastic (teflon?) coatings on the blades of the time. This implies a need for heavier pressure in the past. Most of their instructions of the time make no mention of pressure.
I recall hardly ever getting a nick from my Gillette Black Beauty Super Adjustable that was set towards the milder end of the adjustment spectrum. With a lot of blade exposure any excessive pressure will easily result in nicks and cuts. With my mild King C. Gillette and current adjustable at it's mildest setting it's almost impossible to get weepers. You are right that some pressure is needed. The key is to tailor it to beard and razor characteristics.
Your absolutely right about cartridge razors being a big part of the root cause. I've seen published research on them that shows how they are designed specifically to operate with significant pressure.That's plausible for sure. But I think it's even more a response to people coming from cartridge razors which require you to add a ton of pressure to get the thing to even cut hair. The pressure was probably better understood when everyone use safety razors so maybe they didn't have to think about it too much. A lot of wet shaving advice these days is geared to guys transitioning from cartridge.
Your absolutely right about cartridge razors being a big part of the root cause. I've seen published research on them that shows how they are designed specifically to operate with significant pressure.
I shaved with disposable Sensor 2+ razors while traveling recently. Sooooo much pressure, and no matter how hard I pressed the shaves were still average at best.Your absolutely right about cartridge razors being a big part of the root cause. I've seen published research on them that shows how they are designed specifically to operate with significant pressure.
I have to say I still think advising a newbie of no pressure is good advise and it’s what works for me. I know the razors weight is applying pressure but whenever I add any extra pressure of my own it always gives a little more irritation of some sort. Perhaps other people are different but for me any extra added pressure isn’t worth it.
I know with light razors you have to apply pressure so the no pressure advise doesn’t work but that’s also why I recommend heavy razors and can’t stand light razors. I really don’t understand why people like them. If I take the same razor design one is lightweight aluminum and I add my own pressure, the other SS and I don’t apply extra pressure - the results for me is a smoother shave on the heavier design that doesn’t cause irritation. Maybe others are better at applying even amounts of pressure than I am.
The only other disagreement I have is the water temp. I agree it doesn’t make a difference for shaving performance as far as the lather or shaving goes but where it does seem to make a difference is opening or closing your pores? That’s why a shave after a hot shower works so well for me. I also turn on the hot water and rub hot water into my face for 30 seconds with hair conditioner to keep my face warm and as soon as I’m done washing the conditioner off my face with the hot water I apply my cream/soap.
Before I start shaving I leave the razor head under the running hot water for a few seconds to warm the razor and blade up although I can’t say if that helps but it’s a habit I started. I also let the water run as I shave and after every stroke or two I run the razors head under the water so more water gets on my face for lubrication. I doubt it would matter too much if it was hot or cold at this point but I leave it on hot.
And lastly after the shave is complete I turn the cold water on and pat the cold water into my face for 20-30 seconds to cool it down. I find this helps a little with irritation and produces far less sting if you didn’t get a good shave when applying alum or alcohol/witch hazel.