A few questions about strops

[Landri]

(mods feel free to move this thread if is in the wrong forum)


Hi there fellows!
I’m putting my gear together to give the SR shave a second chance (yes, I do believe in redemption). My question here is about strops.
I recently knew a guy which works with leather, so that got me thinking about doing a totally customized strop. I got a rough idea of the long and wide that I want in the strop; but had no clue regarding the thickness or the material of the strop, how thick it needs to be? any material I should look or avoid? any characteristic I should look or avoid in the leather?

I also want to attach some others strop to the leather one, to have access to all my strops in one place. I have read in some post here that you can use your own jeans to strop, any one tried to do some sort of hanging strop out of it? How thick it had to be? The same applied to the use of a seat belt to strop; but isn’t that some sort of plastic?
I honestly tried to look for this info on the forum, but I ended empty hand.
Any help will be highly appreciated!!
Cheers,
Renato

 

[Landri]

I'll put some extra details.
I'm thinking on given the leather strop this shape:



(the text is on spanish so I can handle to the artisan)
I believe that a 20" for strop surface and 3" wide will be more than enough, I'm close to the usual or ideal size?
Also I'm considering asking for a thickness of 0.5 centimeters (0,2 inches according to an online converting tool).
The question reaming the same: I'm close to the standards for strops?

 

[rockviper]

I want a strop like Willi's!
(see ~ 50secs in)

 

[Landri]

That's even a cooler idea!! an small strop that fit anywhere!!... I think I should consider it...

 

[Landri]

I've decide that this thread is gonna be a work in progress kind of thread.
Today I found a nice piece of leather.. I couldn't restrain my self I bought it (a little bit more tan us$2).
First I'm gonna shape it: take anything that is not my strop out of the way:

I've also bought a material that is made from a plant (sorry I don't know how it's call in english) I wanna use it pasted with a seat belt (also pasted) and some cotton (actually an old pair of jeans will provide me this) fabric for cleaning.

Thanks for watching.
(any advice will be highly appreciated)

 

[paco664]

dime el nombre en español... puedo traducirlo....

 

[Landri]

dime el nombre en español... puedo traducirlo....

Huincha de caña.


(I've been watching your videos, you don't cease to amaze me!!!! )

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

I have made a few strops with a variety of materials. 18-20 X 3 inches is the ideal length for me. You could go longer or narrower. A 3 in. width will strop an edge full length without having to x stroke and take the chance of nicking the strop or damaging the edge. Any wider and it begins to cup depending on thickness. As far as thickness goes, any thickness will work as long as it lies flat when pulled taught.

I am experimenting now with strops made of a paper fabric about the thickness of a paper bag. So far they work great and are the best thing for spray pastes like Diamond or CBN.

I have also experimented extensively with Poly/Nylon strapping. Seatbelts work great, if new. A used seat belt will have a lot of grit imbedded in the weave and scratch your bevel and edge. You will not be able to wash it out. If you can buy new seatbelt strapping or nylon strapping buy the finest weave and at least 2in width. Canvas also works well especially sailcloth.

Denim, Jean fabric tends to want to cup, edges will fray and sewing seams become problematic, results have been so-so for me. There are better alternatives. Denim, Nylon, the woven material you have that looks like tight burlap, linen and any cloth will work in place of linen. If the weave is tight enough, it will make a great pasted strop for Chrome Oxide or Polish. Linen is used to clean the bevel of soap, skin, blood and rust prior to stropping on leather and keep the leather clean so it will polish the bevel without impurities from your last shave.

That leather looks like it will work, if you smoothed the back side a bit you could use it in place of linen. Smooth it by sanding with a diamond plate or scrape it with a sharp knife or woodworking scraper, so you end up with an even nap like suede.

I recommend new stroppers learn on Poly/ Nylon stropping before using leather. Poly/Nylon is very forgiving, much less likely to cut or nick than leather and the results will be about the same or better than leather. As you stropping skill improves, then buy a good leather strop. Only then, will your edges benefit from a good leather strop anyway.

From what you have in the photos you have the makings of a respectable kit. Stropping really is more about technique, than what you are stropping on, especially when you are learning to strop. Learning to strop properly is essential to the longevity and the keenness of your edge. Strop slowly and evenly. Speed does not matter, consistency does.

 

[Landri]

Wow, thanks for that great input!!!

I have made a few strops with a variety of materials. 18-20 X 3 inches is the ideal length for me. You could go longer or narrower. A 3 in. width will strop an edge full length without having to x stroke and take the chance of nicking the strop or damaging the edge. Any wider and it begins to cup depending on thickness. As far as thickness goes, any thickness will work as long as it lies flat when pulled taught.

I am experimenting now with strops made of a paper fabric about the thickness of a paper bag. So far they work great and are the best thing for spray pastes like Diamond or CBN.

I have also experimented extensively with Poly/Nylon strapping. Seatbelts work great, if new. A used seat belt will have a lot of grit imbedded in the weave and scratch your bevel and edge. You will not be able to wash it out. If you can buy new seatbelt strapping or nylon strapping buy the finest weave and at least 2in width. Canvas also works well especially sailcloth.

Denim, Jean fabric tends to want to cup, edges will fray and sewing seams become problematic, results have been so-so for me. There are better alternatives. Denim, Nylon, the woven material you have that looks like tight burlap, linen and any cloth will work in place of linen. If the weave is tight enough, it will make a great pasted strop for Chrome Oxide or Polish. Linen is used to clean the bevel of soap, skin, blood and rust prior to stropping on leather and keep the leather clean so it will polish the bevel without impurities from your last shave.

That leather looks like it will work, if you smoothed the back side a bit you could use it in place of linen. Smooth it by sanding with a diamond plate or scrape it with a sharp knife or woodworking scraper, so you end up with an even nap like suede.

I recommend new stroppers learn on Poly/ Nylon stropping before using leather. Poly/Nylon is very forgiving, much less likely to cut or nick than leather and the results will be about the same or better than leather. As you stropping skill improves, then buy a good leather strop. Only then, will your edges benefit from a good leather strop anyway.

From what you have in the photos you have the makings of a respectable kit. Stropping really is more about technique, than what you are stropping on, especially when you are learning to strop. Learning to strop properly is essential to the longevity and the keenness of your edge. Strop slowly and evenly. Speed does not matter, consistency does.

 

[Landri]

The home made-non cool tools-no previous experience strop!!!

 

[paco664]

i like it!!!

 

[Landri]

i like it!!!

I like how much it cost me!!!
And I just discover how much I enjoy the DIY stuff... B&B showed me another hobby!!

 

[blackman]

That's really cool Landri. Very impressive.

 

[Landri]

That's really cool Landri. Very impressive.

Thanks.
I'll PIF this strop and use the knowledge to built another (better?) one. I'm also working on a brush with interchangeable knot

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Excellent, a 10-12 in piece of nylon Para-cord or leather shoelace, 4-6 in a loop, to the D-ring that will connect to your hook, it will give you flexibility in hanging the strop and keep it level laterally for you. I would use the hemp strop in place of linen for cleaning prior to stropping on leather.

The seatbelt appears to have an even fine weave and will give you a nice finish on you bevel and edge. Practice on this strop, it will be almost impossible to cut until you develop muscle memory for correct stropping . Go slow, keep the razor flat on the strop, and pay attention at the flip.

If you have another piece of the Seatbelt try pasting one side with Chrome Oxide and the other with a fine polish Flitz or MAAS. Any fine polish will work as a finish paste, paint 2 in X’s about 3/8 to a 1/2 in wide with your finger, the length of the nylon strop. This set up will maintain an edge for a long time, well over a year and refresh a failing edge. You can find Chrome OX at most hardware stores. It may not be as pure as that sold for razors but for just starting out it will work well for you.

As you progress in your stropping & shaving technique you will want to refine and upgrade your kit. For now your ingenious & well- constructed kit can keep you going for many years. Sometimes, especially those of us on shaving sites, make way too much of best and most perfect materials. We forget that for hundreds of years everyone shaved with a straight razor and maintained them with what they had on hand. I doubt most folks fretted much about the grit of their rocks, how flat they were or what part or kind of animal their strop was made from.

H.

 

[Landri]

Excellent, a 10-12 in piece of nylon Para-cord or leather shoelace, 4-6 in a loop, to the D-ring that will connect to your hook, it will give you flexibility in hanging the strop and keep it level laterally for you. I would use the hemp strop in place of linen for cleaning prior to stropping on leather.

The seatbelt appears to have an even fine weave and will give you a nice finish on you bevel and edge. Practice on this strop, it will be almost impossible to cut until you develop muscle memory for correct stropping . Go slow, keep the razor flat on the strop, and pay attention at the flip.

If you have another piece of the Seatbelt try pasting one side with Chrome Oxide and the other with a fine polish Flitz or MAAS. Any fine polish will work as a finish paste, paint 2 in X’s about 3/8 to a 1/2 in wide with your finger, the length of the nylon strop. This set up will maintain an edge for a long time, well over a year and refresh a failing edge. You can find Chrome OX at most hardware stores. It may not be as pure as that sold for razors but for just starting out it will work well for you.

As you progress in your stropping & shaving technique you will want to refine and upgrade your kit. For now your ingenious & well- constructed kit can keep you going for many years. Sometimes, especially those of us on shaving sites, make way too much of best and most perfect materials. We forget that for hundreds of years everyone shaved with a straight razor and maintained them with what they had on hand. I doubt most folks fretted much about the grit of their rocks, how flat they were or what part or kind of animal their strop was made from.

H.

Thanks for the kind words and advice!
Sadly is kind of difficult to get any of the mentioned items (MAAS? I still don't know what is that) around here, and I don't think I can get CrOx any time soon for a local dealer.
Maybe I just need to keep asking. In the last couple of months I've noticed that more and more mortar and brick store started carrying DE razors (mostly Merkur and cheaps chinese knock offs), Straight (just Dovo and just one overpriced model), AS (nothing too fancy, but with a more "classic" appeal than the Nivea or Gillette AS), creams and soaps (once again nothing fancy; but at least I got a couple more to choose from) and DE Blades (not good blades; but blades at least).

Maybe if anyone can explain me more about those products (components, similar brands, main use, etc) I could talk a local dealer and see what he can offer me. The same goes to the CrOx: where do you get it, what is it commercial use, etc.

Anyway I'm pretty proud of what I've build. I've never been the handy guy type, and anything that doesn't suck will be good enough for me.
Cheers

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Landri, Mass and Flitz are just fine grit metal polish, any metal polish or auto polishing compound will work the finer the better.

Chrome Oxide is used for buffing metal and jewelry and polishing bevels on woodworking tools. Most any hardware stores will carry a stick or Crayola of Chrome Oxide. It is universal and should not be hard to fine. Find a cabinet shop or woodworker they can direct you, sell or give you a small chunk. You don’t need much.

Definitely not sucking.

 

[brother cavefish]

i used equestrian parts and english bridle leather for mine, it works great

 

[smalltank]

dats frikkin coool man!..2.5" wide strop?

 

[Kavik79]

cavefish: I like the shape of that handle you made there

landri: out of curiosity, isn't it a bit awkward using the middle piece while trying to keep the other pieces out of the way?