686 or GP100?

[BallisticBurrito]

Alright..so I've decided that I will finally buy a .357 revolver after I pay my car off. I've wanted one for ages (actually a .38..but whatever), longer than I've wanted a 1911, M1 Garand, shotgun, etc. etc.

I've narrowed my choices down between the Smith and Wesson 686 and the Ruger GP100. I know a place that has both of them in stainless and 6" barrels for roughly $90 price difference.

I've read that the 686 has a slightly better action and slightly better accuracy yet has QC issues when it comes to finish and some people have had barrels that were off-center. And I've read that the GP100 has crappy adjustable sights (albeit that blog post was from 2008), the fit and finish is a little rougher and it isn't quite as accurate as the 686 yet is built like a tank and would probably survive the apocalypse.

For the most part whichever I use will be a range toy but also used for home defense. If I break down and get a 4" instead of a 6" I'll probably use it for carry during the winter under a heavy coat. When it comes to the range it will probably never go far beyond 25 yards..so pinpoint accuracy isn't really necessary.

The type of grip that comes stock doesn't really matter since I will probably put on some checkered Rosewood fingergrooved grips from Eagle Grips anyway.

AID ME!

 

[OkieStubble]

Flip a coin. While the trigger and lock works are a little slicker on the 686, any compentent gun smith can smooth out the action on either gun. Also the same with the sights as after markets can be readily found for both. So really, it comes down to whichever you like the best. I have the smaller version of the GP100 the Ruger SP101.

If I made a suggestion, it would be to seriously consider the 4 inch over the six if you plan on carrying the gun. Or at least the six inch for the 686 and the 4 inch for the GP100. The GP 100 is a whole lotta gun with a 6" barrel attached to it. Good luck with whichever you choose.

 

[BallisticBurrito]

Yeah if I do decide to carry it would be the 4"..I'd never try to carry a 6" revolver.

I found Wilson Combat springs for the GP100 on Brownells that lets one monkey around with the trigger and hammer springs a bit..that would probably help the action out a bit.

I find that I use "probably" a lot.

 

[P Funk]

Is it the 686 SSR that you are considering? If so I too have heard of the tilted barrel issue. S&W has a lifetime warranty so they should rectify any problems if you run into them.
Rugers are nice but Smiths are a class above IMHO (when they are right).

I ultimately went with a Model 60 pro when I finally picked up my .357. It is a 3inch, 5 shot and I couldn't be happier. It is my only revolver so I don't have extensive experience with them.
I do have a Ruger Mark III which is a great plinker and a few 1911s (my platform of choice). I don't think you can go wrong either way but if you do go with the Smith, there are spring kits available for it as well.
Are either or both available for rent at a range nearby?

Good luck with your decision.

 

[Rudy Vey]

I have the S&W 686 P ( seven rounds with the 4" barrel) and could not be happier. Great gun and very good shooter. The built-in trigger lock is a good idea, however, the other day our range officer warned me not to use it. He had seen a few cases where the lock would not unlock and the gun had to be sent to S&W to get it fixed. I just use the band lock that came with the gun as well. Our vet has the Ruger and we are going out to the range in a few weeks and will try each others gun. Also, as someone said, try to rent them and compare them by shooting -my range has both to rent, with about another 50-60 guns to try out.

 

[Mick]

I would say if you want to get a super sweet 357 take your time and find a decent Cold Python. Probably the nicest 357 ever made. They've been out of production for a while but there are enough of them around that they are not difficult to locate. Made in blued, nickel, and stainless finish in 2, 4, 6, and 8" barrel lengths

 

[Acmemfg]

The GP 100 is built solid. It has absolutely no delicate air about it. It's designed to last forever and shoot whatever fits in the chamber.
The S&W has a tad more finesse about it; finish is maybe a bit better..maybe. The lock system is too gimmicky for me, just something else to fail
(Side note, a basic padlock through the top strap works fine to secure any revolver).

Although I am a big S&W fan, I must mention it is the ONLY pistol to have ever failed on me (broken mainspring...just snapped in two one day).

The GP100 in a 4 inch barrel is probably one of the most versatile pistols out there and vastly underrated.

 

[Obiwan]

I don't have experience with with either, but the 686p is next on my "to buy" list.

 

[Devilpup]

Gp100 is built like a tank. A friend had a 686 that the top of the frame and the forcing cone cracked. He replaced it with a second and the cylinder alignment was so poor that the rounds were hitting the forcing cone and the round fired.

 

[thebikingengineer]

I haven't fired either gun, but I much preferred the feel of the GP100 in the store. If you run out of rounds you'll have a nice hammer with which to beat your attacker. I don't think either company puts out bad guns so you'd be pretty safe either way.

BTW Turtle, those Colts are gorgeous.

 

[Topgumby]

Among the firearms that I've owned and parted ways with, the two I miss the most are the Ruger GP100 (mine was four inch) and a lowly police surplus Model 10 HB that had an action that was smoother than a Feather blade gliding through peach fuzz.

I think either would be a good choice, but I'd look for an older Smith and Wesson.

 

[noelekal]

Here's another vote for older traditional Smith & Wesson revolvers. I've subjected any of several Smith & Wesson revolvers to heavy use and a good deal of abuse over 30 to 37 years and they're still giving perfect satisfaction despite the high volume shooting and heavy handloads. The one I've had longest is a Model 10 Heavy Barrel like Topgumby mentions. The actions are slick and smooth and they are reliable.

 

[Jim]

My S&W Model 19 was a pleasure to use, you just do not get the same feel with the newer ones unless you put some work into the action.

 

[slugg77]

I have put several rounds through my GP100, never an issue. I have shot my friend's 686 and it also performed flawlessly, but since I own the GP, I voted for it.

If someone asks if you prefer blondes, brunettes, or redheads, "yes" is an appropriate answer. This poll is similar to that question.

 

[MrMurphy]

I've owned a 581 (blued, fixed sight version of the 586) which is a blued 686.

A 4" 686 will generally have a better trigger out of the box, and weigh a bit less than the Ruger.

Odds of you ever seriously screwing one up are low.

As someone else said, if you ever had to beat someone to death with a pistol, the GP100 wins in that department between the two, though I have it on good authority that the trigger guard of an S&W N-frame .45 will serve as a handy impact weapon when applied to a criminal's head from a cop who started out with revolvers.

Realistically between the two, the one which feels better in the hand (not the grip, but overall) would be your best bet, both are excellent. I like Hogue Monogrips in rubber for .357s, they tame the recoil and keep it grippy.

I'm biased in this because my first handgun was a Ruger Security-Six (which the GP replaced), 4" .357, and I've also owned the 581, S&W's equivalent piece.

If you dislike the trigger on the gun, fire about 250 rounds. If it hasn't improved, send it to Cylinder & Slide for a trigger job. It will come back far better.

The S&W lock malfunctioning is a well known issue among some shooters who know more than average, enough so that S&W still makes runs of their 642 and 442 J-frames without the lock because many cops refuse to use 'lock' guns as backups from having seen failures with them (making the gun lock up unintentionally, and being unable to reverse the condition). Other guys drill out the lock and replace it with a plug.

 

[kosby]

Both are fine weapons but my preference is a 686. Now with that said, I mean the pre lock model which would be a 686-4 or earlier.

 

[BallisticBurrito]

Since whatever I get will be new (I've been burned on used things more than I care to remember) all of this talk about how crappy the lock is on the new S&W's is making me lean towards the Ruger.

 

[Rudy Vey]

Since whatever I get will be new (I've been burned on used things more than I care to remember) all of this talk about how crappy the lock is on the new S&W's is making me lean towards the Ruger.

You do not have to use the built in lock. Mine came also with a gun lock with a cable, some 15" long, just put this through the chamber or the barrel will take care of it.

 

[BallisticBurrito]

You do not have to use the built in lock. Mine came also with a gun lock with a cable, some 15" long, just put this through the chamber or the barrel will take care of it.

Yeah but I've read that the lock has a mind of its own and will either not unlock..or will lock itself randomly. That's one hell of a liability in a defense gun.

 

[noelekal]

The lock did fail and lock up a Smith & Wesson Model 329 that I'd been handed to try out on an occasion. I will not have anything to do with a Smith & Wesson revolver with a lock. It's so much baggage.

One thing about it; not one of my Smith & Wesson revolvers will ever lock up on me for they are not so equipped.

I would be more trusting of a cleaned used "traditional" Smith & Wesson revolver than I would a new one but that's only one opinion.