How to know when a blade is done?

[DocPapi]

So, I've read in several places that you'll know when a blade is worn out when it starts pulling hairs instead of cutting them. I haven't had that experience, but after about a week of using a blade - sometimes less and regardless of manufacturer - it doesn't seem to do as well on hard spots. Especially on the point of my chin and jaw, it seems to ride over the stubble without actually cutting it.

So, my question is am I doing something wrong with my technique, or is that another symptom of the blade getting worn out? Or maybe both? Any tips on technique for those areas would be much appreciated.

Greg

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Some folks get 100+ shaves per blade. Some get 2. Don't try to measure yourself against other people, you're shaving your face not theirs, and with your prep, your technique, your lather etc.

As to deciding when they're done, blades tend to lose comfort for me, and it starts to feel like I'm shaving with a rusty hacksaw blade. Others seem to just suffer a loss of efficiency. After a while, you'll develop your own feel for when a blade is spent.

 

[dfoulk]

I feel that I have pretty good technique now that I've done this a while. In terms of blades, as an experiment, I've taken Feather blades to about 30 shaves without feeling a major decrease in the quality of the shave. Maybe slightly less efficient in clearing stubble in the later shaves but definitely still usable if I wanted to take it even further. It was a good exercise to understand the blades a bit better and to know that I was binning them way earlier than I had to. If nothing else I now have the confidence that in using a blade with a dozen shaves on it. I'm not shaving feeling like I'm on the very last shave that this blade has to offer.

That being said blades are cheap and easily attainable, so I'm not going to try and stretch every shave from every blade. I used to use six sided dice and bin them after six shaves. I've since switched to some twelve sided dice, because why not plus it saves me the trouble of unwrapping and switching the blade out. So what I'm doing now is I'll bin the blade after the 12th shave or before if I feel any tugging or discomfort which I never seem to get to.

Another consideration is the blades that I choose as I'll generally use the higher quality sharper ones (usually Feather, sometimes Polsilver, Gillette Yellows, Gillette Silver Blues or Astra SP). Some actually do work better in specific razors and I use Feather blades about 90% of the time. I do avoid the lesser quality blades. With some inferior blades I have seen them degrade much quicker with many giving a really great first shave but the second shave is not anywhere near the first shave in quality. I have experienced many blades that need to be binned after three shaves and several others that fall off a cliff in quality after only one. So your blade choice definitely matters.

Lots of factors at play here. Your skin, your shave prep, your water quality, the soap you're using, your lather quality, the razor you're using and the blade. I do also take apart the razor and wipe everything down after every shave. This includes gently folding a towel over the blade and patting it down to remove any water that is present while taking care not to effect the edge. Not sure how much of a difference it makes but leaving a wet blade in a razor I suspect can't be the best thing for it. Plus this only take a minute and all my razors still look like they're brand new.

This is just what works for me so you may find others do things differently.

In terms of what you're experiencing goes it might well be your technique or that you're using a milder (less sharp) blade. The aggressiveness of your razor may be a factor as well. With a less aggressive razor your technique may need to be a bit better to clear all of the stubble. You could try a more aggressive razor or a sharper blade (Feather) in the razor you have. If your technique is bad the Feather blade will punish you though. To see where you're at in terms of technique pick up an alum block and after your shave wet it and rub it on your face. Where it stings your technique needs some improvement. Where there's no sting you did well. Rinse your face with cold water after the alum block and then apply an nice aftershave balm to sooth your skin.

I'd recommend that you use an alum block to determine how your technique is. It's also beneficial to know which way the hair on your face grows as they can all grow in different directions on the different parts of your face. You'll find that going against the grain will likely do a better job in clearing that specific area but against the grain will give you the greatest chance of irritation so a very good soap helps here as does the aftershave balm. Best to do three passes in different directions and possibly a little touch up against the grain in that area if that's your trouble spot.

Good luck.

 

[xxvaleria]

I feel that I have pretty good technique now that I've done this a while. In terms of blades, as an experiment, I've taken Feather blades to about 30 shaves without feeling a major decrease in the quality of the shave. Maybe slightly less efficient in clearing stubble in the later shaves but definitely still usable if I wanted to take it even further. It was a good exercise to understand the blades a bit better and to know that I was binning them way earlier than I had to. If nothing else I now have the confidence that in using a blade with a dozen shaves on it. I'm not shaving feeling like I'm on the very last shave that this blade has to offer.

That being said blades are cheap and easily attainable, so I'm not going to try and stretch every shave from every blade. I used to use six sided dice and bin them after six shaves. I've since switched to some twelve sided dice, because why not plus it saves me the trouble of unwrapping and switching the blade out. So what I'm doing now is I'll bin the blade after the 12th shave or before if I feel any tugging or discomfort which I never seem to get to.

Another consideration is the blades that I choose as I'll generally use the higher quality sharper ones (usually Feather, sometimes Polsilver, Gillette Yellows, Gillette Silver Blues or Astra SP). Some actually do work better in specific razors and I use Feather blades about 90% of the time. I do avoid the lesser quality blades. With some inferior blades I have seen them degrade much quicker with many giving a really great first shave but the second shave is not anywhere near the first shave in quality. I have experienced many blades that need to be binned after three shaves and several others that fall off a cliff in quality after only one. So your blade choice definitely matters.

Lots of factors at play here. Your skin, your shave prep, your water quality, the soap you're using, your lather quality, the razor you're using and the blade. I do also take apart the razor and wipe everything down after every shave. This includes gently folding a towel over the blade and patting it down to remove any water that is present while taking care not to effect the edge. Not sure how much of a difference it makes but leaving a wet blade in a razor I suspect can't be the best thing for it. Plus this only take a minute and all my razors still look like they're brand new.

This is just what works for me so you may find others do things differently.

In terms of what you're experiencing goes it might well be your technique or that you're using a milder (less sharp) blade. The aggressiveness of your razor may be a factor as well. With a less aggressive razor your technique may need to be a bit better to clear all of the stubble. You could try a more aggressive razor or a sharper blade (Feather) in the razor you have. If your technique is bad the Feather blade will punish you though. To see where you're at in terms of technique pick up an alum block and after your shave wet it and rub it on your face. Where it stings your technique needs some improvement. Where there's no sting you did well. Rinse your face with cold water after the alum block and then apply an nice aftershave balm to sooth your skin.

I'd recommend that you use an alum block to determine how your technique is. It's also beneficial to know which way the hair on your face grows as they can all grow in different directions on the different parts of your face. You'll find that going against the grain will likely do a better job in clearing that specific area but against the grain will give you the greatest chance of irritation so a very good soap helps here as does the aftershave balm. Best to do three passes in different directions and possibly a little touch up against the grain in that area if that's your trouble spot.

Good luck.

Excellent advice.

 

[Macfrommichigan]

Blades are cheap. I desire BBS. 4 shaves and toss.

YMMV is the rule on this.

 

[ajkel64]

I just aim for 7 shaves per blade. I change razors every Monday morning so Sunday night I pick a razor for the week and pick a blade and then I try to make that combination last 7 shaves. Most blades do but some definately feel done after 4 shaves and some could on for a lot more. I shave before I shower so my whiskers may not be as soft as they could be.
YMMV as usual.

 

[DocPapi]

Thanks everyone...seems like I should have been able to figure it out on my own, and probably would have after a while, but better to ask and shortcut the learning process.

I like the idea of using dice (or some other counting method) to monitor number of shaves on a blade. I don't shave every day, usually just when I teach or have a meeting with people more important than me, so I often lose track of how many times I've used a blade.

Lots of knowledge and experience here!

Greg

 

[BigJ]

My general rules are:
#1. Any tugging and it is time to toss a blade.
#2. If I get bored and want a change.
Blades are the most YMMV aspect of traditional wet shaving!

 

[Invicta]

....So, my question is am I doing something wrong with my technique,

A bit of both but don't underestimate the value of good lather.
The 12 sided dice sounds ideal for you if you want to count shaves.

 

[vgaworld]

If your razor snags or pulls, your blade is getting dull and should be replaced. Dull blades can cause nicks, cuts and razor burn.

 

[PreachTheWord]

I get my most comfortable shaving from my blade on the 2nd or 3rd shave. When that level of comfort begins to deteriorate (causing irritation) I toss it and get another one.

 

[Jer78]

I get my most comfortable shaving from my blade on the 2nd or 3rd shave. When that level of comfort begins to deteriorate (causing irritation) I toss it and get another one.

Ditto. They are cheap so not a worry, JM.

 

[clsmith123]

Longevity is determined by beard thickness and hair coarseness. There can be no bragging about long blade life because each beard is different. Just shave a blade till you don't like it and replace the blade.

 

[Scaramouche]

For perspective, I can get 200 Derby Extra blades on Amazon for about $12 (.06 ea). I shave every day; over a year, that's $22 to use once and toss. If I use them twice, that's a savings of $11 - for a year of shaving. Amortized over a year, that's a savings of a little over .03 daily. The second shave with the same blade, for me, is worse than the first, the third even more. A duller blade, less smooth, a less close shave. Although others have different experiences, and even say they find subsequent shaves improved, one fact is irrefutable - the blade is not as sharp after you use it once. In fact, it's not as sharp on one side after one pass. So if I hunted for a lifetime for that perfectly sharp, smooth blade to give me a perfect shave, and finally found it, it's less so after one shave - for me. I'm willing to spend .03 daily for a new, sharp blade for every shave. A host of variables if you use more expensive blades, shave 50 times with the same blade, save every other week - but the fact is if I spend $200 (or even $20) on a DE razor, $10-20 on a soap puck and $10-20 on a nice aftershave (not counting pre-shave, witch hazel, alum and any other ritual product) and multiples of same - to get the closest most comfortable shave achievable and spend 20-30 minutes to achieve it, tossing a .10 blade bothers me not a whit. YMMV.

 

[clsmith123]

What gets me is the arrogance that seems to come with bragging about blade longevity. It seems that some people believe that their technique is superior if they get 30 days from a blade. My teenage son can get 10 or more shaves from a blade because he has thin blond facial hair. My beard is thick and course. Three is all I can get without tugging and irritation. I believe the longevity discussion is absurd as each beard is different.

 

[DocPapi]

My whiskers are more like your sin’s even though I’m 3-4 times his age. The conclusion I’m coming to is that it’s really more art than science, a subjective “feel” that I’ll come to recognize over time.
Greg

 

[YouYou]

Hello,

When I start have small nicks, it's time to toss the blade.

Take care
YouYou

 

[DocPapi]

My whiskers are more like your sin’s...

Sorry, meant "son's," not sins. Fat finger syndrome...

 

[Christoph]

I'll never know the answer to this in terms of my personal experience. My blade is changed every Sunday whether I have used it once or 7 times. Its just my personal ritual. Heck, I might even change the blade even if I went a week without shaving, but this has never happened.

But I guess I would be curious to know how many good shaves I could get from 1 blade

 

[Esox]

So, I've read in several places that you'll know when a blade is worn out when it starts pulling hairs instead of cutting them. I haven't had that experience, but after about a week of using a blade - sometimes less and regardless of manufacturer - it doesn't seem to do as well on hard spots. Especially on the point of my chin and jaw, it seems to ride over the stubble without actually cutting it.

So, my question is am I doing something wrong with my technique, or is that another symptom of the blade getting worn out? Or maybe both? Any tips on technique for those areas would be much appreciated.

Greg

It may be the blade, but it might also be the razor.

Using a razor with less blade support like my R41, the blade can and has skipped right over my difficult to shave areas and left lather behind in the stubble.

Using a razor with more blade support like my Fatip Grande with the same blade, it just wipes the lather off and the stubble with it without skipping.

If you can have the shave you like in the same razor with the same blade for shaves, say, 1-4 and then the closeness diminishes, a fresh blade is a simple fix. If that closeness is lacking on the first shave, focus on technique and blade choice.

Once your technique is solid and you've found your best blades, if you still have the same issue you might need to reaccess things.

I'd suggest staying with the same razor and trying a few different blades. Shave with comfort in mind first, closeness second. In time any trouble areas you have, you'll learn to deal with easily and wonder why they were such a problem.