What did you reload today?

[simon1]

I’m an idiot, I just try and pretend to be smart here.

I am setting at this desk talking to you right now.

View attachment 1652855

The desktop hangs over 1 1/2 to 2 feet on either side’. I bet temporary mounts would work?

I had a nice sturdy bench I built when I was in a 2,000 + square foot house, but downsized. The only thing I have now is a plywood piece bolted to a Workmate bench. Not the sturdiest, but it works.

 

[GR5233]

The current state of my reloading area. I hope to have it all back together by the end of this week. View attachment 1652839

Love the setup. Can’t wait to see what it looks like when you finish it

 

[Kentos]

I had a nice sturdy bench I built when I was in a 2,000 + square foot house, but downsized. The only thing I have now is a plywood piece bolted to a Workmate bench. Not the sturdiest, but it works.

View attachment 1652879

When I was at a condo I had the exact same set up. It only wobbled a bit resizing rifle brass.

 

[Whisky]

Anyone here ever reload with Fiocchi primers? Grafs has SP for just under $800 per 12k. I’m seriously considering this but have no experience with them.

 

[Whisky]

I had a nice sturdy bench I built when I was in a 2,000 + square foot house, but downsized. The only thing I have now is a plywood piece bolted to a Workmate bench. Not the sturdiest, but it works.

View attachment 1652879

How old is that can of unique? Is it metal?

 

[Kentos]

Got Milk? (pics)

So my loading table is a wood core 1-3/4” door mounted on 4x4 posts with 2x4 rails. It’s a monster but very sturdy, and at 3-0 x 6-8 gives me room to spread out.

I used a double layer of 3/4” plywood so that I could recess the head of the bolt in the plywood. A single layer would plenty strong enough, but recessing the bolt head would leave less than a 1/4” left to hold the bolt in the ply.

One c-clamp is plenty, but I use 2 when resizing.

I also mounted a cheap vise the same way with a lip in the ply for gunsmithing duties.

Being able to take the press/vice off is great when I need more room on the table, or when the wife wants to use it for sewing

 

[Kentos]

This reminds me that I need to tidy up the bench lol.

 

[nortac]

While inset mounting plates work very well, using @Kentos 's method of C-clamping a press mounted to sandwiched boards allows for use of a desk or other table/counter top without permanently defacing it. I have a large vice, a Co-Ax press and a priming tool mounted similarly. Allows for a multi-function workspace if one is unable to dedicate a bench purely for reloading. @OkieStubble , this looks like an ideal solution for you, but you'd probably need to remove the glass top that you appear to have?

 

[OkieStubble]

While inset mounting plates work very well, using @Kentos 's method of C-clamping a press mounted to sandwiched boards allows for use of a desk or other table/counter top without permanently defacing it. I have a large vice, a Co-Ax press and a priming tool mounted similarly. Allows for a multi-function workspace if one is unable to dedicate a bench purely for reloading. @OkieStubble , this looks like an ideal solution for you, but you'd probably need to remove the glass top that you appear to have?

I'll definitely remove the glass. It's only there to keep me from spilling milk from my cereal bowl onto the wood when I am on B&B.

So I have a question. In @Kentos pictures, I can see the bolts on top, attaching the press to the plywood. But what I can't see is, do the bolts go thru and tighten up on the bottom of the plywood? Wouldn't that prevent the bottom of the plywood from sitting smooth & flush on top of the table top I am C-clamping it to?

 

[OkieStubble]

I had a nice sturdy bench I built when I was in a 2,000 + square foot house, but downsized. The only thing I have now is a plywood piece bolted to a Workmate bench. Not the sturdiest, but it works.

View attachment 1652879

I'm thinking of just starting out very basic and simple, much like yours. So what will I need? 1. A single stage press? 2. A scale? 3. Some Dies, a bucket of powder and maybe some brass & bullets for .45 ACP, .30-.30 and Grendel?

What else?

 

[OkieStubble]

So my loading table is a wood core 1-3/4” door mounted on 4x4 posts with 2x4 rails. It’s a monster but very sturdy, and at 3-0 x 6-8 gives me room to spread out.
View attachment 1652990

I used a double layer of 3/4” plywood so that I could recess the head of the bolt in the plywood. A single layer would plenty strong enough, but recessing the bolt head would leave less than a 1/4” left to hold the bolt in the ply.
View attachment 1652995
One c-clamp is plenty, but I use 2 when resizing.

I also mounted a cheap vise the same way with a lip in the ply for gunsmithing duties.

View attachment 1652999

Being able to take the press/vice off is great when I need more room on the table, or when the wife wants to use it for sewing

Great pics! Now that is a vice!

 

[Kentos]

I'll definitely remove the glass. It's only there to keep me from spilling milk from my cereal bowl onto the wood when I am on B&B.

So I have a question. In @Kentos pictures, I can see the bolts on top, attaching the press to the plywood. But what I can't see is, do the bolts go thru and tighten up on the bottom of the plywood? Wouldn't that prevent the bottom of the plywood from sitting smooth & flush on top of the table top I am C-clamping it to?

They are countersunk. That’s why I used 2 layers. If I used only one there would be less material left after counter sinking them.

 

[OkieStubble]

View attachment 1653098

They are countersunk. That’s why I used 2 layers. If I used only one there would be less material left after counter sinking them.

Ahhh, I see now. Thanks my guy.

 

[nortac]

Anyone here ever reload with Fiocchi primers? Grafs has SP for just under $800 per 12k. I’m seriously considering this but have no experience with them.

I have no experience with them, but I suspect that they are OK, they make good ammo.

 

[nortac]

I'm thinking of just starting out very basic and simple, much like yours. So what will I need? 1. A single stage press? 2. A scale? 3. Some Dies, a bucket of powder and maybe some brass & bullets for .45 ACP, .30-.30 and Grendel?

What else?

You obviously need a press, a quality single stage would be fine. You need dies for each caliber, you will want carbide dies for straight walled pistol cases, don't cheap out and get non-carbide, they exist, but not worth the slight savings. You will need a shell holder for each caliber, some calibers will use the same shell holder if they have the same base, like .38/.357, .308/30-06/any Creedmoor, etc., .40 S&W/10mm, .223/.300 BO. For bottle necked cases, you need to lubricate the case before resizing. I would recommend Imperial sizing wax, comes in a tin like shoe polish, easily applied with your fingers, a little goes a long way.

You need a scale to measure powder by weight. You can use a balance beam scale, but it is slow. Good to have in reserve, but you would really want a digital electronic scale. Much, much faster than a balance beam scale. Digital electronic scales come in all price ranges, some very inexpensive and compact.
You need a way to volumetricly measure/dispense powder. You can start out as cheap as a Lee plastic dipper set, but it will be very limiting. I strongly recommend a good powder dispenser similar to what @simon1 has displayed on his Black & Decker Workmate set up. They are adjustable to throw a given volume of powder, which has to be verified with a scale. You may choose to weigh each and every charge, which you should do when you start out, and then if you are satisfied that your powder dispenser is consistently and accurately throwing the right amount of powder, you might weigh every 5th or 10th charge to verify the weight. So the drill goes like this: you dispense powder into the pan from your scale, verify the right weight and then transfer said charge into your awaiting resized and primed case, prior to seating your bullet. Alternately, if you are confident in the accuracy and consistency of the charge weight being thrown by the powder charger, you can dispense the powder directly into the case without weighing it.

You need a way to de-prime your used cases to get rid of the spent primer. That can be done during the resizing process with the resizing die, or with a special universal de-priming die that only knocks out the primer and doesn't resize at all, or a hand de-priming tool. The most basic way is to just use the resizing die which de-primes at the same time. The reason to deprime in a separate operation is for case cleaning and getting the primer pocket clean before resizing. Clean cases resize easier than dirty ones, but you don't absolutely need to clean your cases, at least at first, but you will want to eventually. Cases can be cleaned manually with soap and water and a small brush, very tedious and slow, not recomended, a vibratory case cleaner using corn cob or walnut shell media, or wet tumbling with SS pins.

You need a way to insert new primers into your clean and resized cases. Most presses, but not all, have a built in or add on way of seating primers, and most of them are problematic at best. YMMV. A hand priming tool or bench mounted priming tool is recommended.

There are endless accessories that can make the whole reloading process easier but that are not absolutely needed to get started. Many of them are inexpensive but very handy. A simple primer pocket cleaning tool is very helpful and almost a necessity if you are not cleaning your cases in a tumbler, etc.
A powder trickler is inexpensive, but very handy. Some powders meter better than others and a small adjustment in the final powder charge is needed because the volumetric powder dispenser threw too little powder or too much. A powder trickler adds powder slowly to the scale pan to bring the charge weight up to the desired level. You can take a pinch of powder with your fingers and trickle that way, but it's slow and messy compared to a cheap powder trickler. If your powder measure dispenses too much powder, you either take a small pinch out with your fingers, or adjust the powder dispenser and try again. Extruded powders don't meter as well as ball or flake powders, so the strategy may be to set the volumetric powder measure to throw light and always trickle up to the desired weight. A well metering pistol powder may regularly be able to be dispensed without having to do any trickling.
Cartridge gauges are handy to check your reloaded ammunition for proper sizing and max OAL. These are used mostly for straight walled pistol cartridges.
Case gauges are used for setting up your dies for bottle neck cases and for determining if they need trimming. Eventually you will need to trim bottle necked cases, but probably not until a couple of firings.There are a number of ways to go about trimming cases, little hand turned lathe devices, gizmos that you chuck into a drill and the archaic trim die that you use with a hand file. Once you trim a case you will need a de-burring tool, many options, manual or powered.
A dial or preferably digital pair of calipers is a necessity. Your eyes will thank you for going digital.
One or more reloading manuals is a necessity.
Powder. Some powders are very versatile, others more specific. You could possibly load all of your pistol calibers with one or two different powders. You will probably need/want a different powder for your 6.5 Grendel and your .30-30.
Primers. Large and small pistol primers, depending on what you want to reload. Small Pistol Primers are still a challenge to find, but slowly getting better. Large and small rifle primers, depending on what you want to reload. Certainly large rifle primers for the .30-30.
Bullets, obviously a wide variety available. You might not find a given preferred bullet, but usually most common styles and calibers are available.
Cases, once fired factory/ range pick -ups. Sometimes new, un-fired brass can be a challenge to find, depending on the calibers popularity/demand.

In summary, the least amount of hardware to get started is a press, dies and shell holders, powder measure, powder scale and calipers.

 

[Whisky]

View attachment 1653098

They are countersunk. That’s why I used 2 layers. If I used only one there would be less material left after counter sinking them.

This is a great Idea. I have a vise I've been trying to figure out where to mound. This just solved my problem. Thanks!

 

[nortac]

How old is that can of unique? Is it metal?

I have a can just like it, cardboard sides, metal top and bottom. Price $12.50 Probably bought in the late 80's or early 90's.

 

[nortac]

A couple of other items that the beginning re-loader needs:
A primer flip tray, I prefer Dillon's heavy aluminum model
A loading block to hold cartridge cases as you process them, particularly powder charging and bullet seating.
A powder funnel. Lyman makes a nifty scale pan/funnel combo.
Scale check weights. Electric scales come with one or two heavy check weights, but a set of multiple small weights is handy to check the accuracy of your scale.

 

[nortac]

I'll definitely remove the glass. It's only there to keep me from spilling milk from my cereal bowl onto the wood when I am on B&B.

So I have a question. In @Kentos pictures, I can see the bolts on top, attaching the press to the plywood. But what I can't see is, do the bolts go thru and tighten up on the bottom of the plywood? Wouldn't that prevent the bottom of the plywood from sitting smooth & flush on top of the table top I am C-clamping it to?

If you want to protect the finish of the desk top, you could cover the underside of the mounting board with either felt or those rubbery liners for kitchen cabinet drawers. A scrap piece of wood between the underside of the desk top and the C-clamp screw would keep the C-clamp from digging into the underside of the desk top.

 

[OkieStubble]

You obviously need a press, a quality single stage would be fine. You need dies for each caliber, you will want carbide dies for straight walled pistol cases, don't cheap out and get non-carbide, they exist, but not worth the slight savings. You will need a shell holder for each caliber, some calibers will use the same shell holder if they have the same base, like .38/.357, .308/30-06/any Creedmoor, etc., .40 S&W/10mm, .223/.300 BO. For bottle necked cases, you need to lubricate the case before resizing. I would recommend Imperial sizing wax, comes in a tin like shoe polish, easily applied with your fingers, a little goes a long way.

You need a scale to measure powder by weight. You can use a balance beam scale, but it is slow. Good to have in reserve, but you would really want a digital electronic scale. Much, much faster than a balance beam scale. Digital electronic scales come in all price ranges, some very inexpensive and compact.
You need a way to volumetricly measure/dispense powder. You can start out as cheap as a Lee plastic dipper set, but it will be very limiting. I strongly recommend a good powder dispenser similar to what @simon1 has displayed on his Black & Decker Workmate set up. They are adjustable to throw a given volume of powder, which has to be verified with a scale. You may choose to weigh each and every charge, which you should do when you start out, and then if you are satisfied that your powder dispenser is consistently and accurately throwing the right amount of powder, you might weigh every 5th or 10th charge to verify the weight. So the drill goes like this: you dispense powder into the pan from your scale, verify the right weight and then transfer said charge into your awaiting resized and primed case, prior to seating your bullet. Alternately, if you are confident in the accuracy and consistency of the charge weight being thrown by the powder charger, you can dispense the powder directly into the case without weighing it.

You need a way to de-prime your used cases to get rid of the spent primer. That can be done during the resizing process with the resizing die, or with a special universal de-priming die that only knocks out the primer and doesn't resize at all, or a hand de-priming tool. The most basic way is to just use the resizing die which de-primes at the same time. The reason to deprime in a separate operation is for case cleaning and getting the primer pocket clean before resizing. Clean cases resize easier than dirty ones, but you don't absolutely need to clean your cases, at least at first, but you will want to eventually. Cases can be cleaned manually with soap and water and a small brush, very tedious and slow, not recomended, a vibratory case cleaner using corn cob or walnut shell media, or wet tumbling with SS pins.

You need a way to insert new primers into your clean and resized cases. Most presses, but not all, have a built in or add on way of seating primers, and most of them are problematic at best. YMMV. A hand priming tool or bench mounted priming tool is recommended.

There are endless accessories that can make the whole reloading process easier but that are not absolutely needed to get started. Many of them are inexpensive but very handy. A simple primer pocket cleaning tool is very helpful and almost a necessity if you are not cleaning your cases in a tumbler, etc.
A powder trickler is inexpensive, but very handy. Some powders meter better than others and a small adjustment in the final powder charge is needed because the volumetric powder dispenser threw too little powder or too much. A powder trickler adds powder slowly to the scale pan to bring the charge weight up to the desired level. You can take a pinch of powder with your fingers and trickle that way, but it's slow and messy compared to a cheap powder trickler. If your powder measure dispenses too much powder, you either take a small pinch out with your fingers, or adjust the powder dispenser and try again. Extruded powders don't meter as well as ball or flake powders, so the strategy may be to set the volumetric powder measure to throw light and always trickle up to the desired weight. A well metering pistol powder may regularly be able to be dispensed without having to do any trickling.
Cartridge gauges are handy to check your reloaded ammunition for proper sizing and max OAL. These are used mostly for straight walled pistol cartridges.
Case gauges are used for setting up your dies for bottle neck cases and for determining if they need trimming. Eventually you will need to trim bottle necked cases, but probably not until a couple of firings.There are a number of ways to go about trimming cases, little hand turned lathe devices, gizmos that you chuck into a drill and the archaic trim die that you use with a hand file. Once you trim a case you will need a de-burring tool, many options, manual or powered.
A dial or preferably digital pair of calipers is a necessity. Your eyes will thank you for going digital.
One or more reloading manuals is a necessity.
Powder. Some powders are very versatile, others more specific. You could possibly load all of your pistol calibers with one or two different powders. You will probably need/want a different powder for your 6.5 Grendel and your .30-30.
Primers. Large and small pistol primers, depending on what you want to reload. Small Pistol Primers are still a challenge to find, but slowly getting better. Large and small rifle primers, depending on what you want to reload. Certainly large rifle primers for the .30-30.
Bullets, obviously a wide variety available. You might not find a given preferred bullet, but usually most common styles and calibers are available.
Cases, once fired factory/ range pick -ups. Sometimes new, un-fired brass can be a challenge to find, depending on the calibers popularity/demand.

In summary, the least amount of hardware to get started is a press, dies and shell holders, powder measure, powder scale and calipers.

Great advice! It's what I need!