The DE Buyers Guide....

[Flaxorca]

Great review! Already ordered my HD before reading this (just of few more nail biting days), but it would only have confirmed my choice anyway. If I am going to try an adjustable, I think the Progress looks like a good choice after reading this review.

BTW here is the Merkur catalogue (PDF), with their complete (?) collection. Not a lot of info, and since they have not named the razors a bit of a puzzle, but nice to see it all together.

 

[Furex]

This is one of the most informative threads I've read on B&B up to date.


After reading it I'm happier I've chosen the Progress instead of the Futur; I also understood how one person starts with just one razor and end up with a full-blown RAD

/me wants more razors!!!

 

[castlecraver]

As this thread was mentioned in another thread just now, I thought it would be a good idea to bump it in case others also missed it.

 

[Johnny Dale]

Great Info! Being a newbie I am looking at taking the plunge on a DE. I was thinking Gillette but the more i read i may go with a Merkur.

I was surfing Amazon and found the Merkur HD Classic "Barber Pole" Long Safety Razor-#38C priced at $44.95. Not sure what they mean by "Barber Pole" but I'm guessing this has a longer handle.

Where should i shop for a Merkur HD Classic? I don't see a razors listing in the local Yellow Pages or is on-line purchasing my best bet?

Thanks!
JD

 

[slayer666]

I'm not sure why but Progress makes my want to buy it. Do I have RAD?

 

[dantes]

Hi,

I used to have a sensitive skin when shaving with mach3 quattro.

I have used a feather popluar loaded with feather Hi blades for about a month & i get great bbs shaves after 4 passes except in the chin / neck area. I am focusing on the chin for now. But in spite of multiple ATG passes I cannot get BBS. My beard is rather thick in this area.

I have been suggested a HD open comb with a milder blade.

What would be your suggestion considering I have a thick beard but a sensitive skin.

thanks

 

[Baines93]

Thanks for the write up, really handy for newbs like me!

Can't wait to start collecting, and using DE's.

Matt

 

[kwetiaw]

what is DE stands for? i'm a newbie here. any other shorts that i need to know?

 

[jholen]

what is DE stands for? i'm a newbie here. any other shorts that i need to know?

DE refers to Double Edge - which is the style of razor that you see here in the post. Sometimes they are also referred to as Safety Razors.

If you're a newbie to B&B, I'd suggest checking out the faq as well as the newbie check-in section of the forum. Oh, and the wiki has a ton of great information. Welcome!

 

[dcnpaulk]

I'd like to see a guide like this for Gillettes.

Anyway joel just one thing:
Are you sure you didn't get the Futur and the Vision mixed up?
You said the handle is heavy and the head light. This is just not true. The head is heavier as the razor is perfectly balenced on the tapered area beneath the adjustment dial where you are supposed to hold it. I do not find it awkward nor has it ever slipped, and I have large hands.

I don't see how it is any more dangerous than any other razor. If anything it is an advantage over TTO mechanisms as you don't have to worry about weather it is closed tightly enough. I would hardly call it cheap either. Nothing on the Futur feels cheap to me.

I know everyone's experience is unique and we all have our personal opinions on each razor but I just feel you are being overly critical of a fantastic razor which many have no issues with at all. However, you are full of praise for the Vision, a razor with a history of problems and which many people have had to return to Merkur for replacements.

I strongly agree with everything Risky wrote and I would just like to make a further comment. First, as a newbie here, let me say that I am amazed at the size, vitality and excellent design of this site/forums! The originators and moderators and all involved in its formation and running are to be thanked and lauded. Super job! I find the forums quite informative as well as entertaining. But as in all publc forums, it is essential to remember that in most all cases we are dealing with personal opinions, which vary all over the place. Thus the YMMV caveats we often see. And that is fine. But newbies in particular must realize that to get the most out of these forums they must read a LOT, not just a few posts. Get the full overview of opinions, and then make your own.

However, the mods and founding fathers have a special responsibility. Their opinions carry a lot more weight because of their long experience and superior knowledge (at least I think so)! Like all of us, they too have their own personal opinions. But especially in the matter of reviews, which influence, especially newbies, to a considerable degree, they should try to be as objective as possible. That is why I think Risky's criticism is important and should be carefully considered.

Now I am such a newbie I don't even know exactly who Joel is in the hierarchy of B&B, but I do know from reading his many posts and reviews that he is as knowlegable and experienced about razors and shaving as anyone here. I highly value his opinions. That is why Risky's comments are relevant. Joel. please, especially when you post negative remarks about a product (and most especially when so many others have posted many positive remarks about that product) give reasons to back up your opinions! It would help us greatly to evaluate whether that opinion is relevant to our own experince or not. For example, you state "but it is strange to use, and not much entertainment or elegance to it. The blade loading and unloading mechanism is TERRIBLE, as it is cheap, and quite dangerous."

Well, the "entertainment and elegance" are obviously things in the eye of the beholder, clearly subjective and not anything I have heard you comment on any other razor. Or am I wrong? It sort of smacks of a hint of bias against this razor from the get-go. But my main concern is the damning statement about the blade loading being "TERRIBLE and dangerous". This surely merits an explanation, because it is beyond mere opinion or taste and hints of a serious defect in the razor's design.

Now admittedly with my inexperience I am at a loss to know exactly what to say about this, and that is why I would love some clarification from you. WHY is it dangerous? I have used both TTO's and the Futur. My own limited experience would not make me think the Futur as more dangerous, in fact quite simple! Am I missing something?

Please do not construe my remarks as anything personal. As I said, I amire your erudition and knowledge about things shaving. But what you have said about the Futur is just so contrary to my own experience, it makes me wonder WHY, what's going on? I learned DE shaving with this razor as an absolute newbie. No experience, just what I have read here. And after about a week's learning curve, I am getting wondeful shaves now. Today's best of all. Nothing bad or dangerous about this razor IMHO, just learn no pressure, gentle, let the weight of that head do all the work (and the head is much heavier than the handle btw). Result....BBS or near to it.

Anyhow....if you have time to reply,thank you! And if not, thank you anyway, and keep up the good work. Love B&B! Cheers!

Paul K.

 

[joel]

I strongly agree with everything Risky wrote and I would just like to make a further comment. First, as a newbie here, let me say that I am amazed at the size, vitality and excellent design of this site/forums! The originators and moderators and all involved in its formation and running are to be thanked and lauded. Super job! I find the forums quite informative as well as entertaining. But as in all publc forums, it is essential to remember that in most all cases we are dealing with personal opinions, which vary all over the place. Thus the YMMV caveats we often see. And that is fine. But newbies in particular must realize that to get the most out of these forums they must read a LOT, not just a few posts. Get the full overview of opinions, and then make your own.

However, the mods and founding fathers have a special responsibility. Their opinions carry a lot more weight because of their long experience and superior knowledge (at least I think so)! Like all of us, they too have their own personal opinions. But especially in the matter of reviews, which influence, especially newbies, to a considerable degree, they should try to be as objective as possible. That is why I think Risky's criticism is important and should be carefully considered.

Now I am such a newbie I don't even know exactly who Joel is in the hierarchy of B&B, but I do know from reading his many posts and reviews that he is as knowlegable and experienced about razors and shaving as anyone here. I highly value his opinions. That is why Risky's comments are relevant. Joel. please, especially when you post negative remarks about a product (and most especially when so many others have posted many positive remarks about that product) give reasons to back up your opinions! It would help us greatly to evaluate whether that opinion is relevant to our own experince or not. For example, you state "but it is strange to use, and not much entertainment or elegance to it. The blade loading and unloading mechanism is TERRIBLE, as it is cheap, and quite dangerous."

Well, the "entertainment and elegance" are obviously things in the eye of the beholder, clearly subjective and not anything I have heard you comment on any other razor. Or am I wrong? It sort of smacks of a hint of bias against this razor from the get-go. But my main concern is the damning statement about the blade loading being "TERRIBLE and dangerous". This surely merits an explanation, because it is beyond mere opinion or taste and hints of a serious defect in the razor's design.

Now admittedly with my inexperience I am at a loss to know exactly what to say about this, and that is why I would love some clarification from you. WHY is it dangerous? I have used both TTO's and the Futur. My own limited experience would not make me think the Futur as more dangerous, in fact quite simple! Am I missing something?

Please do not construe my remarks as anything personal. As I said, I amire your erudition and knowledge about things shaving. But what you have said about the Futur is just so contrary to my own experience, it makes me wonder WHY, what's going on? I learned DE shaving with this razor as an absolute newbie. No experience, just what I have read here. And after about a week's learning curve, I am getting wondeful shaves now. Today's best of all. Nothing bad or dangerous about this razor IMHO, just learn no pressure, gentle, let the weight of that head do all the work (and the head is much heavier than the handle btw). Result....BBS or near to it.

Anyhow....if you have time to reply,thank you! And if not, thank you anyway, and keep up the good work. Love B&B! Cheers!

Paul K.

Paul,
Firstly, thanks for your kind words.

This is a newbie guide and it is not designed to go into great lengths/details about every aspect of each razor, otherwise this would be an unbearably long, complex, and confusing "advanced" guide. If you're a beginner looking for your first DE, the vast majority of fellas want the essentials - not an overwhelming amount of info.... it then becomes too hard to compare the different razors.

While I appreciate your comments/feelings toward the futur, I do disagree with your assessment. Firstly, the futur is NOT head heavy. You may THINK it is, but this is only due to the exceptionally heavy handle of the razor. When you put it up against your face at an angle, the weight of the handle puts a lot of pressure on the head, thereby making the head SEEM heavy. Take the razor apart, grab a digital scale and weigh the head, then weigh the handle. You'll see the handle will be quite a bit heavier.

As far as loading the razor - i've been active on shaving forums for going on 7 years, and i've heard a lot of horror stories. 90% of the horror stories i've heard RE: people cutting the hell out of themselves whilst loading (or unloading) a razor have been from the Merkur Futur. To unload (or load) the futur, you have to remove the top of the razor by force, and it is held it place via a spring/wires. Even when dry, extreme caution should be used, as the futur is slippery at the head, and if you slip or make an error, you slice your fingers/hand. Often, people will find a blade unshaveworthy mid-shave, and will change the blade with slippery hands/razor and will slip - and cut the hell out of their hands. Sure - you CAN load a Futur safetly if shown how to do so, and if you take the right precautions, it would be very hard to cut yourself, however of ALL razors, it's by far the dumbest, and most unsafe design I have experienced.

Merkur classic designs are much safer as you can unscrew the head of the razor off (there is no spring/wire tension to require use of pressure/force) and can be easily re-loaded, regardless of whether your hands and the razor are covered in pre-shave oil. Try re-loading a futur (without using a towel) with your hands, and the razor drenched in lather, oil, etc. You might get away unscathed, however you'll find it considerably more difficult than you would with any other razor. While it might seem trivial to you - some fellas here are awake and shaving at 4AM, and aren't all "with the picture" when they're exceptionally tired/groggy.

TTO's like the vision, Fatboys, etc are even easier. Merely twist the bottom of the razor until the doors are fully open, turn the razor over a trash can to drop the blade from the head, and drop a new blase in (holding the unsharpened sides of the razor blade, tighten the head down, and you're set.

Accidents can happen with ANY razor, however it is my opinion (and history has shown) the Futur is most prone to accidents. Fellas have had them get loose in their luggage whilst traveling (it's the only razor where the top pops off, all others are screwed down) and plunged their hands into their suitcase to retreive their clothing/items - only to find a DE razorblade embedded into their hand. Others have just plumb lost the top hald of their razor traveling -and have had to purchase a mach III or disposables for the remainder of their travels.

Again, the Futur isn't bad (I still have one) but with so many other options that are as good, or better than the futur (many for less $) it certainly isn't what I recommend to beginners, or consider a particularly noteworthy razor.

Will it give you about as good a shave as you can get from a DE? Yes - no question, however I (merely my opinion) think a slant, slant hammer, and vision are superior shavers, and for most, the classic, or 38C will prove as effective as the Futur, albeit with a lower cost, increased grip, and a better loading mechanism.

As always, YMMV. Enjoy your Futur, it's a good 'lil razor!

 

[dcnpaulk]

Paul,
While I appreciate your comments/feelings toward the futur, I do disagree with your assessment. Firstly, the futur is NOT head heavy. You may THINK it is, but this is only due to the exceptionally heavy handle of the razor. When you put it up against your face at an angle, the weight of the handle puts a lot of pressure on the head, thereby making the head SEEM heavy. Take the razor apart, grab a digital scale and weigh the head, then weigh the handle. You'll see the handle will be quite a bit heavier.
<snip>

To unload (or load) the futur, you have to remove the top of the razor by force, and it is held it place via a spring/wires. Even when dry, extreme caution should be used, as the futur is slippery at the head, and if you slip or make an error, you slice your fingers/hand.
As always, YMMV. Enjoy your Futur, it's a good 'lil razor!

Joel,

Thank you for your prompt reply. I understnd now how you arrived at your comments (I think). As to the relative weight of head/handle, I don't think it's the absolute weight that matters, so much as the balance point (handle heavy or head heavy). As Risky pointed out, it balances about 3/4 of the way toward the head, making it "feel" head heavy.

Also, I now understand your remrks about the danger of loading. Your remark quoted above makes me think you are PULLING the head off! Thus "you have to remove the top of the razor by force". If done the way Merkur recommends, you push the side of the top (a small flange there) with your thumb and the top pops off! No force required, and your fingers don't go anywhere near the blade.

So no prob for me, and we'll just agree to disagree with this. But thanks for the clarification and your attention. Much appreciated!

Paul

 

[joel]

Joel,

Thank you for your prompt reply. I understnd now how you arrived at your comments (I think). As to the relative weight of head/handle, I don't think it's the absolute weight that matters, so much as the balance point (handle heavy or head heavy). As Risky pointed out, it balances about 3/4 of the way toward the head, making it "feel" head heavy.

Also, I now understand your remrks about the danger of loading. Your remark quoted above makes me think you are PULLING the head off! Thus "you have to remove the top of the razor by force". If done the way Merkur recommends, you push the side of the top (a small flange there) with your thumb and the top pops off! No force required, and your fingers don't go anywhere near the blade.

So no prob for me, and we'll just agree to disagree with this. But thanks for the clarification and your attention. Much appreciated!

Paul

We're opening it in the same way - but you're now talking semantics. A pop and a pull are similar - however you can't "pop" the top off with a slippery hand, as often when you "pop" the top off when slippery, at the top comes off, your finger slides into the blade.

I'm not sure how long you've been using your Futur, but it took me about 3-4 years to acquire my "accidental discharge" to the thumb. Might take awhile - but one day (hopefully not) you'll see/feel what I'm talking about.

 

[dcnpaulk]

I'm not sure how long you've been using your Futur, but it took me about 3-4 years to acquire my "accidental discharge" to the thumb. Might take awhile - but one day (hopefully not) you'll see/feel what I'm talking about.

I had a suspicion that something like this might be the root of your animosity toward the Futur! Sorry to hear about that, and hope damage was not too great! But I guess mama was right about always being careful with sharp objects! Thanks for the warning, and I think the lesson is (really just the same as when we are shaving, eh?) always be attentive to what we are doing and give proper respect to those sharp edges! Thanks Joel.

Paul

 

[Rousey]

Thamks Joel, great review. After weighing up the options I am going for the HD as my starting DE.

Cheers Rousey

 

[Aftaab]

I've been DE shaving for a couple of months now and bought the Futur merely based on its looks. It is a pretty decent piece of kit and although I don't have anything to compare it with yet (Gillette SS from the late 40's purchased off eBay in transit) I do believe it is very well built. I haven't had any issues loading it and find that if I place a face cloth on the edge of the basin I can pop the top off without issue when changing the blade. The top snaps on snuggly when you load a new blade. I haven't come across any issues with slippage either. I am using Proraso cream with a Shavemac 177 and can create some serious lather with it. In spite of being a somewhat messy shaver - lather everywhere - I haven't had the razor slip yet.

I do think that the adjustments are a bit overwhelming at first. I started at a 2.0 and have gone up to 3.5 and back down to 3.0. If you are new to DE shaving there are so many variables involved: what brush? what soap or cream? what razor? It may be wise to get a decent fixed head razor to begin with. I'm looking forward to using my Gillette Super Speed from the late 40's when it does arrive as I'm led to believe it is quite a 'mild' razor. At that point I will have something to compare with my Futur. No doubt I will try other razors, but for now I really like the Futur.

 

[SRock]

Excellent write up Joel! This is a great guide.

 

[Confilo]

I had been wet shaving since I started to get facial hair. I'm 60. I also think Joel is a very knowledgeable wet shaving mentor. I haveed learn a lot from him and these forums.
There is more to shaving than to remove beard.
He is also entitled to his opinion on the Futur and perhaps it might or not have to do with a nasty cut; however I respectfully disagree with his Futur assessment but I understand that he is trying to keep inexperienced hands from a razor that in his opinion presents some hazards.
If you are groggy at 4 am when shaving, God forbid, you should use one of the multi contraptions. What about those gentlemen like our grandparents who use straight razors?
I find the Futur very simple and wonderful razor and I admit that whenever I use it having read Joel's review remind me to be careful

 

[Hawkeyeted]

I bought the Merkur "Vision 2000" in 2007, following the use of a Progress for about three years. I have to say, the V2K is quite a magnificent razor.

The Vision pictured here is the "Original" Vision (notice the hex screw on the handle). It got terrible reviews when first produced due to its "questionable" construction and the amount of maintenance required. However, the V2K is of much better construction having removed the hex screw and reduced the number of parts. The result is a tool that is lot easier to maintain. If you're not willing to take the time every three months or so to disassemble for a cleaning, this isn't the tool for you.

While the Progress is considered the "Honda", the V2K is the Lamborghini of DE razors. It's not cheap (USD ~$125), gives the same quality of shave as the Progress IMHO, but the "feel" of the razor in your hand is second to none. It's hefty, very well balanced, and makes blades literally "sing" as the remove growth.

While a Honda will get you on your date just the same, which would you rather arrive in?

 

[bd80wb]

DE, DE, which one for me?

This is the tune nearly all of us have hummed at one point&#8230; so many options, so little information, and such a price difference! Who wants to buy a well built implement that will last generations, only to find out they over/under bought, or just plumb purchased the wrong razor for their wants, needs, and desired effect? Well &#8211; I aim to clear up some confusion, and give you the knowledge to venture forward with the purchase of the RIGHT double edge razor for your wants and needs.

First off &#8211; What are your wants, desires, and end goals? Some of you may be fighting a horrid ingrown hair problem, where as others might be getting severe irritation from conventional products/methods, or the last group&#8230; wanting the closest possible shave. Before you read any further &#8211; stop and truly think about what your desired goal is. ANYONE can get a perfectly baby butt smooth face, the distinction is how long it will take them to do so, and how torn up their face will be. There must be a balance between closeness and comfort/irritation. Also, keep the size of the razor in mind&#8230; if you are a very large individual, a tiny razor is not going to be as effective, as it will be hard to hold and control and you will inadvertently apply too much pressure, and have miserable shaves. Conversely, if you are a smaller individual, a large razor will be a bit too unwieldy, be too large for you hands/face and be a bit laborious.

Adjustable or Fixed head?
There is no real NEED for an adjustable razor, however with an adjustable razor &#8211; you are armed with the ability to essentially make the razor &#8220;mimic&#8221; other razors. If you wish for an incredibly close, aggressive shave, you can dial the razor in accordingly; just as you can dial it down and have an incredibly comfortable, smooth (yet not baby&#8217;s butt smooth) shave. Many of us do not want to fumble with adjustments, and typically end up sticking to one &#8220;medium&#8221; not so aggressive setting on an adjustable anyways &#8211; so adjustable, at least for me is not a major selling point in my eyes. Fixed head razors, in my opinion tend to be a bit more rigid, and provide a more consistent shave, are far less prone to break or &#8220;loosen up&#8221; and are far less expensive. It boils down to the type of person you are&#8230; if you truly feel you would get so involved as to change settings on different passes, etc &#8211; then the adjustable razor might be your ticket! Remember &#8211; the best is NOT always the most expensive.

Razor by Razor &#8220;review/comparison&#8221;
So you know you want a DE, but are still not sure which one? Here are several examples of DE&#8217;s that are currently in production, and can be readily purchased at specialty stores on via the internet.

FIXED HEADED RAZORS&#8230;.

Merkur Classic HD

I would recommend this razor for EVERYONE. Aggressive enough to get a superb shave, but delicate enough to make it difficult to really make hamburger out of your face. A wonderfully comfortable, balanced and easy to use tool. This razor is perfect for those who have normal to sensitive skin, and a light to moderate beard. It can and will work well for those with tougher beards, but there are better solutions out there for you tougher bearded fellas, so keep reading. This razor is also quite reasonably priced, and will provide you with generations of use. Only complaint? The razor is a bit small. The long handle might be a better option for some of us bigger guys&#8230;.
Razor Stats
Handle Length: 2.65in
Beard: Light to Medium
Skin Type: Sensitive to Normal
Skill Level: Beginner to Advanced
Level of aggression (1-5): 2

Merkur Slant Bar

If the HD or Classic won&#8217;t cut it, this ugly beast is your ticket. This is in my opinion the most effective shaving device (save for a straight razor) and happens to be my favorite DE razor. Baby butt smooth shaves with zero irritation &#8211; but it does come at a cost. This razor has quite an aggressive stance, and if used improperly, or by an unskilled hand, will cause TREMENDOUS damage to your face. So long as you keep it slow, steady and apply ZERO pressure, you should be fine. If you do NOT have an incredibly thick, tough beard, this is not needed, and a Merkur classic/HD should do the trick just fine. If used correctly this is an incredibly effective tool, and CAN be incredibly easy on the skin. Great size and weight, but a bit small for those of us with large hands.
Razor Stats
Handle Length: 2.65in
Beard: Heavy to Werewolf
Skin Type: Normal to Leather Tough
Skill Level: Advanced
Level of aggression (1-5): 5


ADJUSTABLE RAZORS&#8230;

Merkur Progress

The Progress is just one of those all around fantastic tools, and I highly recommend it to beginners. Good size, weight, adjustments, built well, bulletproof. This is the &#8220;Honda&#8221; of razors, just gets the job done, does not make any lofty claims or excuses. It isn&#8217;t the closest shaving razor, it isn&#8217;t the best looking razor, and it isn&#8217;t the most comfortable or luxurious, but it is superb, and it is a fantastic deal. This razor can be dialed down to work wonders for those with a light to medium-tough beard, and sensitive to normal skin. The handle is a touch on the short side, but it is large enough to work acceptably for those with large hands.
Razor Stats
Handle Length: 3in
Beard: Light to Medium/heavy
Skin Type: Sensitive to Normal
Skill Level: Beginner to Advanced
Level of aggression (1-5): 2-4

Merkur Futur

The futur is an interesting tool. It has an incredibly heavy handle, with a light head. Very awkward and prone to slip when gripped with a wet hand. This razor sports an impressive range of adjustments and is highly effective &#8211; but it is strange to use, and not much entertainment or elegance to it. The blade loading and unloading mechanism is TERRIBLE, as it is cheap, and quite dangerous. Some are quite fond of the Merkur futur, but it is my opinion the Merkur Progress is a much better razor, and is less costly, so I do NOT recommend the futur.
Razor Stats
Handle Length: 3.5in
Beard: Light to Heavy
Skin Type: Sensitive to Tough as leather
Skill Level: Advanced
Level of aggression (1-5): 3-4

Merkur Vision

The &#8220;bad boy&#8221; of the Merkur adjustable line. This thing is a monster, and provides the widest array of adjustments, the greatest handle size, the best weight distribution and the coolest &#8220;look.&#8221; Although it is quite pricey, I feel it is a superb razor, and with its lifetime warranty, it is more of an &#8220;investment&#8221; compared to the aforementioned razors. This razor is superb for both the beginner (with the ability to REALLY dial it down) and for the advanced &#8220;baby face&#8221; junkie as this thing can be opened up to REALLY and I mean REALLY get serious. A vision opened to its widest setting is an incredibly fearsome force. This is a fantastic razor as it give you &#8220;growing room&#8221; so a beginner never has to worry about needing more firepower.
Razor Stats
Handle Length: 4in
Beard: Light to werewolf
Skin Type: Sensitive to Tough As Leather
Skill Level: Beginner to Advanced
Level of aggression (1-5): 1-5

OVERALL
No one razor is truly perfect for everyone&#8230;. Choose wisely, but my suggestion is to start with a Merkur Classic HD, and if you ever feel the need for a closer, more aggressive shave, upgrade to a Merkur Slant Bar.

Just remeber... take your time and buy the right razor.... just look at the size difference of the two "bad boys"

Big difference from razor to razor... if you have any questions feel free to tack them onto this thread!

Is the Merkur rake edge safety 25 a good razor? It was not mentioned in the DE buyers guide.