New DSLR on the way. Flash options?

[fast14riot]

I have one of the GF modifiers that I just got in my batch of free goodies, I haven't used it much yet, but so far it makes a tremendous difference for indoor or party shots. You can see it here next to my SB800 and SB23 speed lights.

Even without a flash modifier, just tilting the flash up to bounce it off the ceiling will help tons. I will have to get some comparison shots uploaded tonight with some shave gear for the subject.


-Xander

 

[Legion]

I have a SB-800 and it is good, but probably a bit on the large side for a D3100. I would recommend you look at an SB-700.

 

[cb91710]

Even without a flash modifier, just tilting the flash up to bounce it off the ceiling will help tons. I will have to get some comparison shots uploaded tonight with some shave gear for the subject.

Gary has 3 comparison shots posted on the link above. The difference... I won't say is "amazing", but it makes the difference between a "snapshot" and a photograph.

The bounced image is better than the direct, but still shadowing on the wall behind the model, and harsh shadows under her chin, nose, browline.
The diffuser almost adds a backlighting effect... the hardness of all shadows is gone, the shadow on the wall no longer draws your eye away from the model, but there is just enough to provide definition to the face.

But it would be cool to see some "real world" comparison shots.

 

[cb91710]

If you are not a fan of camera mounted flash (I am not) and you still want to be mobile there are several mounting frames that will take the flash away from the lens to help improve the shadow/highlight.

Off-camera is not a priority for vacation shots... I'm just wanting something that will perform more like my old Minolta (I think the model was HiMatic-E) or my old Canon pre-Rebel body (bought it around '90 to shoot airshows, no AF, but it was an awesome camera).

For shots for B&B, I'm always going back and forth between shooting almost macro, and backing off and zooming in.
The on-camera flash is overloading for tight positioning, and produces hard shadows, but backing off, even using the flash, the L810's autofocus just doesn't get it (see the bright Coticule shot above)... I think my S550 would have done a better job.
Off-camera for tight work? I'd be concerned about the shadows being too harsh, but a light box will correct that.

What burns me is the L810 was only about $150 less than the 3100... I really wish I had taken more time making that decision, but at the time, I just wanted an upgraded camera for my daughter's wedding and never even considered anything more.
I swear the GN on the 810's pop-up is around 5 or 10... it doesn't illuminate a wall 30ft away.

 

[cb91710]

Camera (from Crutchfield) and Flash (from Best Buy) both arrived today.

I think I'm going to be very happy with this setup. I spent a bit playing with some of the settings, and the ISO 12800 option is going to be nice.
I also really like the "Programmed Auto" option where I can manually select between a fast shutter with a low stop to blur the background, or slow the shutter but increase the depth of field.
I'm not quite "getting" the differences between Shutter and Aperture priority modes... seems that all three modes do the same since you can select from any speed or stop manually.

The Sigma flash is a beast! I didn't realize how big it was (I guess I should have with a GN of 61).
I'm guessing that my question above, the difference between the Super and not is an LCD display and more programmability. I don't think that's something I'm going to miss.
Now, the Sigma instructions are horrible. The flash came with a tripod adapter (not documented), I'm assuming that the IR sensor behind the red cover will allow the unit to operate as a slave if I have the pop-up on the camera active? (EDIT: Just tested and this does not work, I'd need a remote cable or wireless)
Very nice that it includes a wide-screen drop-down and light catcher. I didn't realize those were options. I'll probably still buy Gary's dome rig though.


Lenses... I'm assuming that I want to stick with Nikon/Nikkor glass and not mess around with Sigma?

 

[AllenG]

Difference between shutter and aperture: shutter priority, you are in control of how long light will be allowed to reach the film plane. It allows you to decide if there is going to be motion blur in the image or not.
Aperture priority gives you control of the depth of focus. The more wide open the aperture the more shallow the field of focus.

 

[cb91710]

Oh I understand what happens with each one, but either way, for a given light level, if I open the aperture, the shutter is going to speed up, likewise, if I speed the shutter up, it's going to open the aperture.
In manual mode, there is full user control, but in the automatic modes, the user has control over one or the other, but the end result is the photo is going to be taken at 125@15 or 60@7, whether I select the speed or aperture.

 

[fast14riot]

Sigma makes some quality glass for reasonable budget. Like their shorter primes are pretty good, the 35 f/1.4 is actually very good optically. I had a sigma 275-500mm that was a fantastic lense, but had to sell it to afford to live.

The Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D is a great lense, but I don't think it will auto focus on the D3100, but works on my D200 and F100. That is something to check when buying lenses, often times the consumer level cameras will not work with some lenses due to not being able to talk to each other, but work in manual mode. I just bought a used Nikkor lens from Adorama for cheaper than fleabay and with a bettr return policy, so don't forget about the big stores like KEH, Adorama, B&H, etc.

Have fun and post up some pics!


-Xander

 

[cb91710]

I like zoom... I was thinking about adding a 55-200 or 55-300 to supplement my included 18-55, but there's no rush since I'm not shooting airshows anymore.

Primes are great for pro use where you can carefully set the shot up, but for me, that would be like moving back to the old 126 and 110 Instamatic days.
I've had some kind of zoom on every camera I've owned since the mid 80s.

 

[AllenG]

Oh I understand what happens with each one, but either way, for a given light level, if I open the aperture, the shutter is going to speed up, likewise, if I speed the shutter up, it's going to open the aperture.
In manual mode, there is full user control, but in the automatic modes, the user has control over one or the other, but the end result is the photo is going to be taken at 125@15 or 60@7, whether I select the speed or aperture.

Right, so you choose the one that is going to best give you the image you want to capture. For example, when taking an image of a running helicopter or airplane you want the prop to have motion blur. At a very high shutter speed the prop will look like it is just sitting there, engine off. So you would set the camera to shutter priority and 1/60 of a sec or so and the prop will be properly blurry. Likewise if your image is better served by controlling the depth of focus, use the camera in aperture priority.

 

[cb91710]

Correct... but I was able to do that with my old HiMatic-E Minolta using only one adjustment.
It had automatic metering for shutter speed, I set the focus and the aperture.
I could open the aperture up to stop action, or stop it down to introduce motion blur or to increase depth of field.
Adjusting the aperture changed the size of a mesh over the light sensor, so a higher stop had fewer holes, f1.7 was an un-covered photocell.

That's what I'm not getting... for any given light level, the f stop will be inversely proportional to the shutter speed.
So why does the camera have three different semi-auto modes... "Programmed Auto" (scrolls through both shutter and aperture), then shutter and aperture priority.

Is it just a move to simplify the setting decision?

 

[AllenG]

It is for convenience of composure.
For example, shooting images at a race track; there will be instances where you want the cars to be blurry so they don't look like they are parked out there, and there will be times when you want a high shutter speed and you want to capture all the detail in the car that you can. This is when shutter priority is the most convient setting.
Shooting still-lifes, depth of focus is more important compositionally and aperture priority is the more convient setting.
When I'm plugged into my studio lights, full manual is the easiest way to control the camera.

 

[Mick]

Lenses... I'm assuming that I want to stick with Nikon/Nikkor glass and not mess around with Sigma?

The lens is what is the most important part. The rest is there just to hold the lens.

You can get by far better with a cheap camera and a quality lens more than you can get by with an expensive camera and a cheap lens.

The camera is only providing the timing (a hole opened for a set duration to let light through) everything else is done by the lens.

 

[cb91710]

Just ordered a 55-200 from Adorama

I've actually spent about the last 7 hours simply GLUED to Ken Rockwell's page.
Seems to be some very good information, though he really seems to have developed an aversion to tripods with the image stabilization in modern cameras.

I am concerned though... one of the reasons I invested in the D3100 is to revisit and reshoot Carlsbad Caverns, given that out of nearly 100 shots, I only got about 5 or 10 that are even borderline acceptable from the Coolpix L810.

I would hate to not take a tripod and find that I'm wanting to do some longer exposures to use the natural light (okay, ambient) rather than the flash. The NPS spent a lot of money bringing in Broadway lighting engineers to create an ambiance (the artificial lighting was significantly reduced from what I remember as a kid).
OTOH, I'd hate to haul the thing around if I don't need it.


Does anyone have experience shooting in this environment? I really don't want to plan a third trip!

 

[fast14riot]

Hey Rich, check this article out, it should offer some insight...

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/a-shot-in-the-dark---guide-to-cave-photography-4680


-Xander

 

[cb91710]

Very good information.
More geared toward photographing "untouristed" caves with no ambient lighting, but there's some great ideas in there.

 

[AllenG]

There are handrails throughout Carlsbad Caverns, take a big Gorillapod. http://joby.com/gorillapod

 

[cb91710]

The Gorillapod is interesting. A bit pricey though.

 

[Edcculus]

The T60 has the old Canon FD mount. After that camera they came out with the EF mount.

Unfortunately since the FD mount's lens registration distance is different from the EF. Even with an adapter, you cannot focus to infinity unless the adapter has corrective glass. That means there isn't a huge market of digital people snagging these up. Great for people that still own FD mount cameras, bad for people trying to get rid of FD mount lenses.

 

[cb91710]

Surprised me when I researched it. The T60 was not even made by Canon. It post-dated the T70 by about 6 years (1984 for the T70, 1990 for the T60).
The T60 was made as a low-cost alternative to the (at the time) pricey EOS/Rebel systems... it wasn't even sold in Japan.

Regardless, what I was thinking is if someone still into film, or wanting to get back into film, especially someone with a few FD lenses, it might be a good deal... but like I said, it's just a feeler right now. There are a few on the bay and prices are all over the place... I just have no clue what a package like this would be worth.
I wouldn't be opposed to breaking the package, but I understand that the non-Canon zoom and doubler are not worth much (even though they are Japanese production).