How much is acceptable?

[jeffshead]

My keyword searches did not turn up anything so I created this thread.

I've always used disposable razors. Just received my first DE; a Rockwell 6S. How much slop (play) should I see? Is it normal to have a different gap on each side with all DE razors?

I can maneuver the blade some so both sides are just about equal but I'm not looking to make shaving a hobby.

 

[brucered]

Zero is acceptable for a new, modern razor.

 

[WThomas0814]

Zero.

 

[jeffshead]

These are the blades. I emailed the company and they said the UPC indicates that they were manufactured in Germany, for what it's worth.

I have to shave daily. My whiskers are pretty tough but I have sensitive skin and I almost always nick my throat area no matter what razor I use.

I'm willing to try another brand of DE razor and blades but my gut is telling me to just go back to disposables since it seems I'm not going to be saving any money, anyway, with the price of good DE blades. It looks like the good, inexpensive Astra blades are a thing of the past. Their low cost is what sent me down this rabbit hole.

So what's a person to do, that just wants a good, inexpensive shave without buying a dozen expensive razors to test with? There's so many positive reviews on so many different razors it's hard to choose. I settled on the Rockwell based on all of the reviews but look what that got me.

So what's the current, precision made DE razor and blade combo that won't break the bank? The Rockwell is too bulky for my taste. I'd prefer a smaller head.

 

[SharpieB]

So what's the current, precision made DE razor and blade combo that won't break the bank? The Rockwell is too bulky for my taste. I'd prefer a smaller head.

I am a big fan of Wolfman but they are pricy. I really like my Razorock Game Changer as well. I think the Gamechanger would be a good fit for you. I also have a 6S and it is much bulkier than the GC.

 

[brucered]

I don't think the blades are at fault, unless they have glue dots affecting the clamping points.

My $60 stainless razor has zero play.

I would contact the maker of your razor and see what they say.

 

[RAD patient]

My 6S doesn't have this. Best to contact Rockwell and see what they say.

 

[Stikeyoda]

These are the blades. I emailed the company and they said the UPC indicates that they were manufactured in Germany, for what it's worth.

View attachment 1786716

I have to shave daily. My whiskers are pretty tough but I have sensitive skin and I almost always nick my throat area no matter what razor I use.

I'm willing to try another brand of DE razor and blades but my gut is telling me to just go back to disposables since it seems I'm not going to be saving any money, anyway, with the price of good DE blades. It looks like the good, inexpensive Astra blades are a thing of the past. Their low cost is what sent me down this rabbit hole.

So what's a person to do, that just wants a good, inexpensive shave without buying a dozen expensive razors to test with? There's so many positive reviews on so many different razors it's hard to choose. I settled on the Rockwell based on all of the reviews but look what that got me.

So what's the current, precision made DE razor and blade combo that won't break the bank? The Rockwell is too bulky for my taste. I'd prefer a smaller head.

A couple of thoughts

Keep in mind you will get multiple shaves from a blade. Those Wilkinens are probably good for 5-10 shaves (lots of variables involved). Assume 4 and that box has a year of shaves in it. I'm guessing you might have paid $25 so divide by 400 and you have 6 cents per shave (ignoring the upfront cost of razor which is negligible when you are talking years (decades) of use).

Wilkies are kind of expensive. Astra Superior Platinums can usually be got for around $10 per 100 which puts you at 2 cents per shave. You can get down to $5 per 100 with some of the Chinese brands (pay your money take your chances, but some are actually not bad). There are some great blades at the $10 level. I love the Dorcos (all models).

Razors and blades both have the occasional lapse in QC. A new razor and a 2 cent blade should not move around (there are some exceptions). Wilkies and a Rockwell should not move. One or both had a QC slip IMO.

One big difference between a safety and a disposal - you should not need to apply pressure (the source of nicks after poor technique) so be careful.

Which brings up the downside (well to many of us it is an upside) to our ritual - finding the right razor and blade combination for our skin, beard, and face/head/neck structure. Friends who ask me how to get started I generally point them to what I consider great starter razors - Merkur 34C, Muhle R89, Bevel, Hensen, Edwin Jagger DE89, maybe Parker 24C and the Astra Superior Platinum. Based upon experience with those (remember you are learning a new skill - shaving with a safety razor is different than a disposable one) then people here can make intelligent recommendations as to what to try to improve the experience. You can adjust the experience by changing the blade, the razor, and building the right muscle memory.

If you want the most inexpensive way to figure it out, what I tell my friends get the Qshave short handle classic from Amazon which comes with Yintal blades. It will put you out all of $7, is a great training platform for technique and your experience can help others here advise you are to where to go next. If you want to experiment with blades on your own then get the Yintal Adjustable Butterfly (I think the model is 9306X, there are other brands with the same razor) from AliExpress for $23 (free shipping).

 

[WThomas0814]

A lot of people like RazoRock. Their stainless steel razors are ~$60. Quality looks fantastic, but, they didn’t work for me. Full CNC heads, solid handles, many options. I wish they worked for me, but I ended up selling them.

Muhle Rocca are $100-130, depending on which handle you choose. They give solid alignment with any blade, at least the V4 CNC heads. This is my weapon of choice.

 

[VerbaVolant]

How much is acceptable?​

Zero

...How much slop (play) should I see?

Zero

...Is it normal to have a different gap on each side with all DE razors?

No, not normal. Not only that, unacceptable as well. I would have contacted the company and requested replacement or refund.

 

[Jay21]

My Rockwell 6C has play in the blade alignment. I can manually adjust it to be equal on both sides before tightening the handle down.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Return the Rockwell and look at the RazoRock Game Changer and SS Lupo. My Game Changer and SS Lupo have perfect alignment.

 

[VerbaVolant]

These are the blades. I emailed the company and they said the UPC indicates that they were manufactured in Germany, for what it's worth...

Good blades. To me, they are not very sharp, but otherwise good blades. Maybe not the best for tough stubble.

...My whiskers are pretty tough but I have sensitive skin and I almost always nick my throat area no matter what razor I use...

Considering you are not using an aggressive razor (e.g. R41, or alike) your razor has little to do with cutting yourself. Same for the blade. Throat area is difficult for most men. I believe in releasing the trapped hair, steady hand and proper lather. These fixed it for me for good.

...my gut is telling me to just go back to disposables since it seems I'm not going to be saving any money, anyway, with the price of good DE blades. It looks like the good, inexpensive Astra blades are a thing of the past. Their low cost is what sent me down this rabbit hole...

Cartridge razors were invented to accommodate all hands using them, regardless of skill. Just drag them over the skin and it's done. Even at $15-$20 per 100 blades, DE is still light years ahead of cartridge. In every aspect and in my opinion. DE will require some level of competency and understanding how the mechanical removal of facial hair works. If all fails, go back to the cartridge. No problem with that.

...So what's a person to do, that just wants a good, inexpensive shave without buying a dozen expensive razors to test with?...

Focus on technique and lather. Two paramount factors. Improve technique and learn to make proper lather. You need a medium aggressive razor, good quality blades (blades you already have are good) and keep using the same combination until you achieve perfect shaves.

Good luck.

 

[Berwick12]

Return it.

If I were to pick 1 and you were looking to change, it would be the Henson or the Edwin jagger 3one6. The 3one6 is great if people say they don't like the built -in angle of the Henson. But daily shaving is what I thinks the Henson is made for. My 2 cents.

 

[profusion]

So what's a person to do, that just wants a good, inexpensive shave without buying a dozen expensive razors to test with? There's so many positive reviews on so many different razors it's hard to choose. I settled on the Rockwell based on all of the reviews but look what that got me.

So what's the current, precision made DE razor and blade combo that won't break the bank? The Rockwell is too bulky for my taste. I'd prefer a smaller head.

Another vote for Razorock for good quality at great prices. I've got their German 37 razor (aggressive and not a good starter razor), which was less than $50 and good quality. I've got their Game Changer .68P on the way to me now.

I started out on a Merkur 34C because that's what the guy at Art of Shaving recommended. The blade always had some play on the pins (kind of a flaw of the design), and one side of the bar had a small chip I didn't see until later and some poor plating that caused corrosion on that side after several years. It makes that side of the razor rough and basically useless.

I was still able to get a decade of shaves out of that thing before the increasing thickness and roughness of my aging beard made it less effective.

There are so many choices now that you don't have to spend hundreds of dollars on a razor and find rare oddball blades to get a great shave.

Once you've got a decent functioning razor and decent blades (which those Wilkinsons probably are), the big thing is to focus on the gear you have and spend time learning your technique. Getting a lather is easy--there are many Youtube videos on it, and it'll take you five minutes to learn.

Learning how to shave your particular face is the tough part that will just take some time. There are great videos with suggestions, but everyone's face is different, and you'll have to adapt basic techniques to the specifics of your face:

• the sensitivity of your skin
• the thickness of your beard and the individual hairs
• the grain pattern of your face, which can be a LOT more complex than you think
• how fast your beard re-grows.

 

[rudygu]

It’s worth trying a few different blades with that razor if you like it otherwise. You could get a sampler and just try them all out to see if the centering problem is consistent across brands. I say this because I have one razor, the Blackland Era, that exhibits this with a couple different blades. With others I can drop them straight on and tighten down with no fuss to perfect alignment. I assume the tolerance is off just a fraction and if I put a blade on that is also off in the wrong direction it causes the issue. Sometimes flipping the blade fixes it as well.

If you don’t like the razor otherwise I’d get rid of it and just try a Henson. I’ve never seen a blade that doesn’t perfectly center with mine. It’s as no fuss as a de razor gets

 

[VerbaVolant]

My Rockwell 6C has play in the blade alignment. I can manually adjust it to be equal on both sides before tightening the handle down.

 

[JimL911]

Looks like my MK1 Fatip.

 

[Jay21]

I agree. I don’t particularly care for my Rockwell razor but left that out for now. I rarely use it these days.

 

[Shaveprentice]

Blade alignment should be perfect. All of the old vintage(some are around 100 years old) Gillette, GEM, Schick, Star, etc. razors that I own all have perfect precise blade alignment. When cheaper Zamac razors were introduced it seems many of them had less precise blade alignment but were still pretty close in most cases. With the advent of CNC machining many awesome Stainless Steel but affordable razors with absolute perfect precise blade alignment like those offered by RazoRock are now available. For what the Rockwell 6S costs anything other than perfect precise blade alignment is unacceptable in my opinion. The German Wilkinson Sword blade works very well for me and I consider it to be a high quality blade. Blades are very subjective though in how well they work for an individual in terms of comfort, sharpness, etc. DE blades almost always are perfect in terms of their dimensions though some very slight variation does exist among different blade brands in size and will on rare occasion fit different razors slightly differently but very rarely be problematic.