What's new

Do I really need a cheap strop to start?

A practice strop is always nice to have. I added one to my previous order. You can use it as a travel strop too. It was allot nicer then I expected.

20230323_184422.jpg
 
The first strop I purchased was a Parker latigo. It cost around $75, so it was not a "beginner strop". It had decent hardware and a handle. I have since had to replace the leather component as it was damaged multiple times until I mastered the stropping process.

My most expensive strop is a cordovan shell strop custom made for me by Matt of Griffith Shaving Goods. It cost me about $250 a few years ago. Replacing the leather component would cost $200 so I would be devastated if I nicked that strop. Thankfully, I have not done so, yet.

Like many others, I highly recommend strops produced by Tony Miller of Heirloom Strop Company. He makes strops in a variety of configurations and a variety of leather and fabric types. He sometimes has replacement leather and fabric for sale.

If you like the better hardware and optional handles of his you can go with a better strop, but recognize that unless you have the digital dexterity of a surgeon, you are highly likely to damage your first strop beyond repair. Mastering the timing of the flip at the end of each stroke and embedding that timing in muscle memory takes much practice.

If you are on a budget, you can get a "Poor Man Strop" from Whipped Dog. It is made from leather with no added hardware, so it is ideal for beginners with limited cash. He also sells a "Rich Man Strop" that comes with hardware, including D ring handles. He also sells replacement leather and fabric components should they need replacement.

Another big decision you need to make is whether to purchase a 2 1/2" strop or a 3" one. Traditionally, 2 1/2" strops were common, but now 3" seems to be more popular. When using a 2 1/2" strop, you have to add a diagonal component to your stropping stroke as the entire length of a straight razor does not quite fit on the width of the strop. With a 3" strop, you can use a straight up and down stroke which is far easier to master. All my strops are 3", but you will also find many proponents of 2 1/2" strops.
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
So I went with one of Tony Miller beginner strops as it was Cheaper than several other comparable strops. Shipping was a bit steep but fine. One more component acquired. Now for products!
Sorry about shipping costs but USPS rates keep going up. USPS Priority to the west coast for a strop is over $17 now days, even a small flat rate box has climbed to over $10.
 
Sorry about shipping costs but USPS rates keep going up. USPS Priority to the west coast for a strop is over $17 now days, even a small flat rate box has climbed to over $10.

I will comment on Tony's post. There are many ways of packaging strops. If strops are folded to fit in a smaller box, the surface of the leather can become damaged. Tony uses a larger box so he can avoid such damage. It is one pf many reasons I recommend Tony's strops. However, larger boxes cost more to ship. The extra postage is well worth the price to protect the strop. You would not want to purchase a heirloom quality strop only to have it ruined to save a few dollars on shipping.
 
I may have been lucky but I’ve honestly never nicked or cut a strop since day one.
It seems most people have though, and so buying a cheap but useable one is definitely good advice. But if you have your heart set on a good one to start, then just buy it a go slow and easy you’ll be fine.
That's good!

When I started, stropping was not my "strong suit.." In addition, I wanted to do it like my barber used to do it. Fast n' sexy..
I learned to slow down until I mastered the skill... if indeed I ever did..:eek2:
 
I still haven't mastered stropping. I occasionally give my strop a slight nick and have to slow down and concentrate.
 
Three years on, I’m still using my first Tony Miller Old No. 2 Horsehide strop. I’ve never nicked it or any other strop for that matter. I move the edge onto the strop after starting the stroke and lift it back up before finishing the stroke. The spine stays on the strop. If you do this it’s pretty much impossible to nick the strop.
 
Last edited:
Stropping can be a difficult skill to master, but if you pay attention, (stropping does demand 100% of your attention) you can learn to strop without cutting your strop. And if you do cut a leather strop, it can be repaired, glued with CA glue and a toothpick. May not look pretty but will strop a razor just fine, if you use the glue sparingly, rubber cement also works.

Learn to strop on a Nylon or Polyester strop, (seat belt weave) 2-inch width, available at any fabric store for a couple dollars a yard. Nylon is very tough and forgiving, you can even strop edge leading without cutting the strop, (not recommended).

Folks cut their strop when making the flip and the razor is still in forward movement. Make a stroke, stop, flip and land the edge after the razor is moving back (spine leading) and the edge has not landed on the strop.

Holding the tang by opposite corners, rather than the flats/jimps. This will allow you to flip the razor with the thumb, (like a light switch) as opposed to twisting your whole hand and wrist. Twisting the wrist/hand will move the razor in an edge leading direction, when it lands and cuts the strop.

Stropping on nylon will deliver a pretty good edge, and will align the edge. Not as good as leather, but until stropping is mastered stropped edges will not be perfect. Stropping is much more technique driven than the quality of the substrate.

Tony Miller handmade strops are excellent value at $55.. His Cotton Cloth Single Component at $25.50 may be a good strop to learn on.

Tony used to sell replacement components, replacing leather is also an option and benefit of buying from a handmade maker.

Go slow, keep the spine on the strop always, stop then flip, flip with your thumb not wrist, land the edge once the forward motion is spine leading, use lite pressure. Hang your strop at waist height, 20” para cord looped to a doorknob.

And Pay Attention. If my bride walks into the room, I stop stropping.
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
Sorry,my comment wasn’t meant as a criticism. Just an observation about shipping cost relative to the base cost.
No worries, I didn't take it that way, just trying to explain why costs are what they are. It seems everything has skyrocketed in price lately, material and services and every time I go to buy or ship I am surprised by the increases.

@H Brad Boonshaft :

"Tony used to sell replacement components, replacing leather is also an option and benefit of buying from a handmade maker."

I do still offer both Artisan and Plain replacements as available. Not on my storefront, just email me.
 
Last edited:
I may have been lucky but I’ve honestly never nicked or cut a strop since day one.
It seems most people have though, and so buying a cheap but useable one is definitely good advice. But if you have your heart set on a good one to start, then just buy it a go slow and easy you’ll be fine.

This was my experience also. Early on, I laid the strop on a flat surface and stropped until I was comfortable with controlling my blade on the strop. YMMV
 
“If his bride walked in, I'd stop stropping too. I'd at least want to know how she got in.”

When attaching the strop to a doorknob, the door is open and stropping is parallel to the wall.
We have a master bedroom suite with attached bathroom. The door is to a short hallway that leads to the bath and bedroom.
 
Top Bottom