technique

[papi]

Hello, I have watched a bunch of videos and my technique is coming along well. I have used a good amount of force on a tight strop and then I have used light pressure also. I always use a tight strop so I don't nick the leather. My question is am I better off using light passes on a tight strop or is it beneficial to use some downward force?
The second question is if I were to get the green compound and use a second leather strop. Is the green compound the final step or is it used before the bare leather strop? To my understanding, the green compound is like 30,000 grit but I am not sure when to use it, if at all.
I have no idea why anyone would use the poly belt. it just does not fit into the scheme of things for me.
thanks for any suggestions. I am finally getting somewhat of a shave, far from perfect.

 

[silverlifter]

The linen/cotton strop is for after the shave: to dry the blade, remove any detritus from it, and straighten the edge. You can also use it after honing, for the same reasons, before going to leather.

I prefer a tight strop with moderate pressure for the first ~20 laps, and slowly decreasing to light pressure (weight of the razor, essentially) for the last ~20 (around 60 in total).

I've never used a pasted strop, but if I did, it would be before leather, with linen in between to remove the possibility of contaminating my leather strop.

 

[Seelector]

I use the exact same technique as @silverlifter, moderate pressure lightening up as you go. For a long time I only used light pressure, then found that my edges improved when I used a little more pressure and torque to make sure that the edge is fully contacting the strop.

But the thing that helped my stropping the most was to slow down. At some point I realized that my edge wasn't making good contact on the stroke that's coming towards me. I needed to rotate the razor a bit more on that stroke. Going slowly let me focus on getting the right contact and pressure. Eventually I sped up again, but this time with better technique.

 

[papi]

I use the exact same technique as @silverlifter, moderate pressure lightening up as you go. For a long time I only used light pressure, then found that my edges improved when I used a little more pressure and torque to make sure that the edge is fully contacting the strop.

But the thing that helped my stropping the most was to slow down. At some point I realized that my edge wasn't making good contact on the stroke that's coming towards me. I needed to rotate the razor a bit more on that stroke. Going slowly let me focus on getting the right contact and pressure. Eventually I sped up again, but this time with better technique.

I understand a lot more now after your advice and silverlifter. I can notice a big difference already. My method of testing is to strop in the middle of a shave and I knew right there and then that I was on the right track.
Please understand that I never used a strop before except for destroying one years ago. Having better control and awareness I was able to hear and feel the difference. It improved my edge a lot, but I still have a ways to go. Thanks very much.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Stropping on real linen, nylon, (seatbelt type) or polypropylene strops all work. But Nylon and Poly are not as abrasive as flax linen.

Linen works to clean the blade of soap, skin, blood and oxidation (rust) prior to stropping on leather, that you want to be as immaculate as possible. Flax linen can add some keenness as it is mildly abrasive, Nylon and Poly are great for learning to strop as they are difficult to cut, you can even strop edge leading and not cut them, unless you put pressure on the edge. Nylon and poly strops are great for holding paste. You can buy both from any fabric store for $5 a yard to experiment with paste.

They all can improve an edge. The strop(s) do not need to be tight, and you do not need downward pressure, more than needed to keep the spine and edge on the strop. The spine never leaves the strop. At the end of the stroke, stop flip the razor, (spine stays on the strop) and begin forward motion, land the edge once the strop is moving.

If you do this, it is impossible to cut the strop. Strops are usually cut at the flip.

Leather is mildly abrasive, less than flax linen and will finely polish the bevel and straighten the edge. Remember that the cutting edge is so thin that we cannot see it with any magnification less than SEM magnification. So, if you are using “Medium” or more pressure on a taught strop, you are at the very least flexing the actual edge. Flex it enough and the edge will break off and cause micro chipping.

Learning to strop to the point where you are consistently improving the edge can take a while, up to a year if you strop daily. A single errant stroke or too much pressure can cause an edge to fail or degrade.

If you need to strop in the middle of the shave, you likely have edge issues off the hones or improper stropping is damaging the edge and stropping is straightening the edge enough to get you through a shave. A band aid not a fix. If you see random direction deep stria on the bevel, that is from a dirty, contaminated strop, (airborne dust).

Proper stropping is way, way under rated.

 

[papi]

Stropping on real linen, nylon, (seatbelt type) or polypropylene strops all work. But Nylon and Poly are not as abrasive as flax linen.

Linen works to clean the blade of soap, skin, blood and oxidation (rust) prior to stropping on leather, that you want to be as immaculate as possible. Flax linen can add some keenness as it is mildly abrasive, Nylon and Poly are great for learning to strop as they are difficult to cut, you can even strop edge leading and not cut them, unless you put pressure on the edge. Nylon and poly strops are great for holding paste. You can buy both from any fabric store for $5 a yard to experiment with paste.

They all can improve an edge. The strop(s) do not need to be tight, and you do not need downward pressure, more than needed to keep the spine and edge on the strop. The spine never leaves the strop. At the end of the stroke, stop flip the razor, (spine stays on the strop) and begin forward motion, land the edge once the strop is moving.

If you do this, it is impossible to cut the strop. Strops are usually cut at the flip.

Leather is mildly abrasive, less than flax linen and will finely polish the bevel and straighten the edge. Remember that the cutting edge is so thin that we cannot see it with any magnification less than SEM magnification. So, if you are using “Medium” or more pressure on a taught strop, you are at the very least flexing the actual edge. Flex it enough and the edge will break off and cause micro chipping.

Learning to strop to the point where you are consistently improving the edge can take a while, up to a year if you strop daily. A single errant stroke or too much pressure can cause an edge to fail or degrade.

If you need to strop in the middle of the shave, you likely have edge issues off the hones or improper stropping is damaging the edge and stropping is straightening the edge enough to get you through a shave. A band aid not a fix. If you see random direction deep stria on the bevel, that is from a dirty, contaminated strop, (airborne dust).

Proper stropping is way, way under rated.

This information is very valuable to me and I most likely would have to research for months to find anything comparable. Thank you for spending the time and the consideration to tell me. Much appreciated.

 

[JPO]

You don't need much pressure. It is more important where and how you apply that pressure. If you concentrate the pressure on the spine and apply the pressure to the bevel with torque, you can get away with more pressure on the spine if you are able to control the torque.
You need enough pressure to flatten the leather against the spine to make good contact.
You can also lighten up on the pressure and do shorter x strokes. That is what I do with delicate extra hollow grind blades.
With heavy large blades it is often enough to use the weight of the razor.

In my opinion these 5/8 extra hollow blades can benefit from a slightly different stropping technique then heavier blades.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Look straight down on your edge with magnification. If you see any shiny reflections, that is where the bevels are not meeting or microchips.

Simply lightly joint the edge straight, a single light stroke on your finish stone face will straighten the edge and 10-20 X laps should bring the bevels back to meeting.

The edge should look like a dull grey line, no shiny reflections, (Photo 2).

Almost fully set bevel.

Fully set, no shiny reflections.

 

[DesertIguana]

I am no expert, but in life you do nothing well, first time you try. Is it possible to have never rode bicycle, then buy high dollar racing bike, and to ride competitively in Tour de France.

Hope you got my point, Practice builds skill.

 

[papi]

Look straight down on your edge with magnification. If you see any shiny reflections, that is where the bevels are not meeting or microchips.

Simply lightly joint the edge straight, a single light stroke on your finish stone face will straighten the edge and 10-20 X laps should bring the bevels back to meeting.

The edge should look like a dull grey line, no shiny reflections, (Photo 2).



View attachment 1711935

Almost fully set bevel.



View attachment 1711937

Fully set, no shiny reflections.

Oh, I see what you mean. I have been at it for a couple of months now and about 30 minutes ago, I can honestly say that I had a decent shave. I think for me, a straight razor shave leaves the skin healthier in my opinion.

I won't let that go to my head because I have a long way to go especially with blades that have what you call a smile. I haven't even attempted that yet and I won't until I sharpen and prepare 6 other blades that are all rusted and out of line.

I purchased a really nice straight about 35 years ago and stopped using it after it dulled, but never had a good shave from it. I destroyed a nice strop back then.

Truthfully I can only take an hour of honing every few days. I have to learn patience.

I have to go over all the threads that I asked questions. I am going to read them over a couple of times and actually take notes of all the technical information everyone has told me.
I have to say that there are a bunch of you guys who are very helpful, considerate, and willing to go out of your way on this forum. It really has left me with a good impression. thank you.

Years back collecting safety razors I would read about stones that go up to 20,000 grit and I used to be amazed at all of it. I am glad I finally started getting into it because it is a great hobby and now a necessity once I have experienced a decent shave with a straight. Best
papi

 

[Eshebert]

You don't need much pressure. It is more important where and how you apply that pressure. If you concentrate the pressure on the spine and apply the pressure to the bevel with torque, you can get away with more pressure on the spine if you are able to control the torque.
You need enough pressure to flatten the leather against the spine to make good contact.
You can also lighten up on the pressure and do shorter x strokes. That is what I do with delicate extra hollow grind blades.
With heavy large blades it is often enough to use the weight of the razor.

In my opinion these 5/8 extra hollow blades can benefit from a slightly different stropping technique then heavier blades.

I strop the hell out of my razors, I absolutely put out on that SOB. My whole game changed when I changed philosophy from listing to the folks who fear rounded edges to the folks who believe in whipping the snot out of a strop. My edges are smoother, just as keen and I can extend time between honing. For a while I did not believe I could reach HHT with my Coticule, when I upped my pressure. All of a sudden, there it was. I am by no means saying the way I do it is correct, I am just saying I am currently enjoying awesome results and I hone half as much as I used too. If it comes back to bite me, I will be the first to say I was wrong.

 

[JPO]

I strop the hell out of my razors, I absolutely put out on that SOB. My whole game changed when I changed philosophy from listing to the folks who fear rounded edges to the folks who believe in whipping the snot out of a strop. My edges are smoother, just as keen and I can extend time between honing. For a while I did not believe I could reach HHT with my Coticule, when I upped my pressure. All of a sudden, there it was. I am by no means saying the way I do it is correct, I am just saying I am currently enjoying awesome results and I hone half as much as I used too. If it comes back to bite me, I will be the first to say I was wrong.

I think we also forget how flexible some of these razors are. I do not have any issues with edges getting rounded by stropping, even with some pressure.
Some coticule edges can take allot of abuse on the strop, and can also benefit from it in my opinion. Highly refined synthetic edges are more delicate. As a result i might be more careful with these types of edges.
I have a razor that needed to be honed with 3 layers of tape. With this razor i add a little more slack in the strop, and use more pressure. I am still able to reach the edge.

 

[Frank Shaves]

How much pressure to use is difficult to describe. These things helped my stropping:

1. Keep the spine on the leather
2. Gradually raise and lower the edge
3. Gradually applying pressure until you can sense the sweet spot. This is how much pressure to use.
4. Unlocking my wrist so the full weight of the razor falls on the leather

Point 4 is hard to describe. When I try to control the blade, I impede the blade from doing its work, and my honing, stropping and shaving suffers. If I am able to "let go", get out of the razors way and let the razor go and do its thing, things go much better.