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Restoring an old Cleaver.

I have spent an incredible amount of time on youtube researching how to restore rusty old tools, such as axes and knives. This christmas I was gifted a massive Cleaver that has a little surface rust and what looks like "old" pitting. I removed the handles, are they still called scales if the implement is like 5 pounds? These pieces of wood are incredibly light, and were bolted into place. I'm guessing this was not original.

I have two main concerns, the biggest is this being a cleaver that may be used for meat how aggressive does a person need to be to get the pitting out? I read peoples comments saying that these pits can harbor bacteria and KILL you. I imagine this is a worst case scenario, though i tend to have a bit of a laissez-faire attitude so give me your thoughts? My plans are to soak the blade in vinegar and see what condition the blade will be in once that's done and decide from there.
Upon removing it from vinegar does anyone have suggestions as to how to minimize the flash rust that happens?

The second concern that i have is the handles themselves, being that they're likely not original is there merit in trying to repair them (even though they have bolts in them, and the nuts look epoxied into place?) I've read if you soak them in mineral oil it would be a great job restoring old wood...maybe i read it about horn? most of the stuff that i've read over the years has been on straight razors, sorry! My plan is to use a different kind of wood, possibly Maple. It seems that a large percentage of Youtubers i have watched prefer using oak though, i'm not sure if there is a specific reason for this. I would choose Maple because of the heft which can help balance a 10" cleaver, and that the wood has less porosity for the aforementioned bacteria to grow.

If anyone has feedback, advice, recommendations, or anything to add please let me know. For anyone who may be curious, it's a Samuel Lee Knives and steels LF&C size 10. *edit* i'm not sure why i wrote butcher knife in the title, but i'm not sure how to change it. I guess i got excited to hear everyones advice :)
 
I have spent an incredible amount of time on youtube researching how to restore rusty old tools, such as axes and knives. This christmas I was gifted a massive Cleaver that has a little surface rust and what looks like "old" pitting. I removed the handles, are they still called scales if the implement is like 5 pounds? These pieces of wood are incredibly light, and were bolted into place. I'm guessing this was not original.

I have two main concerns, the biggest is this being a cleaver that may be used for meat how aggressive does a person need to be to get the pitting out? I read peoples comments saying that these pits can harbor bacteria and KILL you. I imagine this is a worst case scenario, though i tend to have a bit of a laissez-faire attitude so give me your thoughts? My plans are to soak the blade in vinegar and see what condition the blade will be in once that's done and decide from there.
Upon removing it from vinegar does anyone have suggestions as to how to minimize the flash rust that happens?

The second concern that i have is the handles themselves, being that they're likely not original is there merit in trying to repair them (even though they have bolts in them, and the nuts look epoxied into place?) I've read if you soak them in mineral oil it would be a great job restoring old wood...maybe i read it about horn? most of the stuff that i've read over the years has been on straight razors, sorry! My plan is to use a different kind of wood, possibly Maple. It seems that a large percentage of Youtubers i have watched prefer using oak though, i'm not sure if there is a specific reason for this. I would choose Maple because of the heft which can help balance a 10" cleaver, and that the wood has less porosity for the aforementioned bacteria to grow.

If anyone has feedback, advice, recommendations, or anything to add please let me know. For anyone who may be curious, it's a Samuel Lee Knives and steels LF&C size 10. *edit* i'm not sure why i wrote butcher knife in the title, but i'm not sure how to change it. I guess i got excited to hear everyones advice :)

I wouldn't worry about the pits, other than not doing anything that might cross contaminate, and cleaning it after use.

White oak is most often used because it is harder, more crush resistant, and more rot resistant. If you, and you alone will have access to them, probably wouldn't matter which you use. If someone might leave it in the sink, in water, or, shudder, run it through the dishwasher, wood choice becomes more important.

White Oak | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwood)
 
I apologize for the picture quality, i'm getting ready for work, so just had time to do a few quick "on the carpet" pictures. not sure if they would be any better if i tried but these for now :)
 

ajkel64

Check Out Chick
Staff member
Interesting old cleaver, good luck on the restoration. Keep us informed please.
 

shavefan

I’m not a fan
Nice. Should be a fun project.

I wouldn't be too concerned with pitting on the blade, your going to wash and dry the blade so it won't be an issue. I would be more concerned about gaps where the handle scales mate up with the metal handle. These gaps are bacteria traps. But using epoxy to affix the handle scales will fill any gaps and alleviate that issue.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Nice. Should be a fun project.

I wouldn't be too concerned with pitting on the blade, your going to wash and dry the blade so it won't be an issue. I would be more concerned about gaps where the handle scales mate up with the metal handle. These gaps are bacteria traps. But using epoxy to affix the handle scales will fill any gaps and alleviate that issue.

Good luck and keep us posted.
That's exactly what I was thinking, a thorough washing between use SHOULD take care of anything, but I just wanted to ensure that nobody had better ideas than me. You know, someone with experience.

Do you (or anyone) have a recommendation for epoxy once I hit that stage? A few weeks probably ;)
 

shavefan

I’m not a fan

oc_in_fw

Fridays are Fishtastic!
Steel is not the best habitat for bacteria. A good washing will fix up whatever might be there.
 
Steel is not the best habitat for bacteria. A good washing will fix up whatever might be there.
that's what i thought, but several people online were very adamant about their stance (though had no sources to cite which made me hesitant to believe them). I currently have it soaking in vinegar to break down the rust, and even after a short time there has been considerable removed.
 
Yeah, Since they've discovered that vinegar can kill bacterial spores (which are incredibly difficult to kill) I felt safe taking this course of action. :) glad to know that nobody else here (yet) thinks that i'll kill people preparing food with this cleaver :)
 
Don't worry about the pits. If you want to make absolutely sure there aren't any bacteria or even spores, before using the cleaver let the blade soak in a diluted bleach solution (1:10) for 15 minutes then rinse with plenty of water. That's how I sanitize my brewing equipment, and I never had a batch of beer go bad in over 10 years.
 
I'm at a forced break at the moment. School started back up, and i'm out of time to do anything fun until next friday. Clinicals will keep me busy for the next week, but after that i'll have a week to catch up on all of my homework, razor sharpening, and hopefully handle making.

as far as i know, since last posted i have soaked the blade in vinegar for a couple days and went to town with a yellow/green scotch Brite foam scrubby thing and removed all of the rust. I coated it in avocado oil (just because that's the best barrier i had on hand) and then soaked the original (?) handles in mineral oil. I haven't had a chance to sand them or anything, but they look pretty sorry. black grungy and kind of depressing to be honest.

So currently it's propped up against our sofa table where i see it every time i walk in the house. It makes me smile a little and wish i could go to the lumber store and pick up a few sticks of wood that would work properly. hopefully next week i can pick up some epoxy and wood to start the process of fitting new scales/handles properly.

Any recommendations would be great, I've heard white oak, and black walnut...
 

oc_in_fw

Fridays are Fishtastic!
I'm at a forced break at the moment. School started back up, and i'm out of time to do anything fun until next friday. Clinicals will keep me busy for the next week, but after that i'll have a week to catch up on all of my homework, razor sharpening, and hopefully handle making.

as far as i know, since last posted i have soaked the blade in vinegar for a couple days and went to town with a yellow/green scotch Brite foam scrubby thing and removed all of the rust. I coated it in avocado oil (just because that's the best barrier i had on hand) and then soaked the original (?) handles in mineral oil. I haven't had a chance to sand them or anything, but they look pretty sorry. black grungy and kind of depressing to be honest.

So currently it's propped up against our sofa table where i see it every time i walk in the house. It makes me smile a little and wish i could go to the lumber store and pick up a few sticks of wood that would work properly. hopefully next week i can pick up some epoxy and wood to start the process of fitting new scales/handles properly.

Any recommendations would be great, I've heard white oak, and black walnut...
Vinegar will kill anything that’s bad
 
Do you plan to varnish the new scales or not? If you do here are my favorites:
1. Mix 1:1 linseed oil and pine rosin, heat on a boiling water bath while stirring until it dissolves. This is old style violin varnish.
Or,
2. Shellac - not the kind that comes in spray cans. :) This is what I used on the handle of a cleaver in the past, still looks great after about 15 years. Also on some maple wood paneling I installed around a fireplace in the house, wife loves the finish.
 
Do you plan to varnish the new scales or not? If you do here are my favorites:
1. Mix 1:1 linseed oil and pine rosin, heat on a boiling water bath while stirring until it dissolves. This is old style violin varnish.
Or,
2. Shellac - not the kind that comes in spray cans. :) This is what I used on the handle of a cleaver in the past, still looks great after about 15 years. Also on some maple wood paneling I installed around a fireplace in the house, wife loves the finish.
Not sure how i didn't respond to this. My "few week" break ended up being about 6 months. I'm done with school now and preparing to get this project going, and am about to buy some Tung oil, and I found a woodcrafters that has some bonus "Curly" "Birdseye" Hard rock maple I was thinking of using to finish it. I'm getting back into this, but i heard that the Tung oil is very similar to Linseed but has a red tint instead of yellow. I thought i might dilute with turpentine in various amounts and finish it a few times, allowing it to soak further and further in.
 
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