What's new

Naniwa 10k Super Stone-Worth it?

I have come to the realization that the Naniwa SS progression is giving me the edge I best prefer. I currently have 1k, 3k, 5k, 8k, 12k stones in my arsenal. I'm gradually moving away from Arkansas stones but will surely keep my coticules.
Question...what might the collective wisdom say to adding a Naniwa SS 10k to the line up? Worth the purchase or redundant? Just looking for opinions.....
 
Last edited:
I use film, so take that into consideration. It seems to me like a waste of time to stop at a 10K stone when going from 8K to 12K. Of course, if you simply love to hone your razor there is nothing wrong with it. But I don't believe you will get a better end result.
 

Ravenonrock

I shaved the pig
I use the same stones and progression, getting good results. I’ve considered the 10k, but might just opt for a Vermont Green Slate and see where that fits in. Scratch the itch for a natural stone and curious to see if it could be a finisher, or a different finished edge at least. If not, might fill the gap between 8-12k. Still mulling things over.
 
I have come to the realization that the Naniwa SS progression is giving me the edge I best prefer. I currently have 1k, 3k, 5k, 8k, 12k stones in my arsenal. I'm gradually moving away from Arkansas stones but will surely keep my coticules.
Question...what might the collective wisdom say to adding a Naniwa SS 10k to the line up? Worth the purchase or redundant? Just looking for opinions.....

Absolutely pointless adding a Naniwa 10K to that progression, you would be throwing good money away, and it wouldn't make any sense to go from 10K to 12K, if you wanted an upgrade keep the money you were thinking of buying the 10K with, sell the 8K and 12K, now buy yourself the Suehiro Kouseki 10K and the Suehiro 20K.
 
I prefer smaller jumps in abrasive/particle size over larger ones. Moving from 8k to 12k isn't so great in one sense but in a fractional sense, that added step is logical. That stone exists for a reason.

A lot depends on how you hone, what you are already getting from the existing set up.
What also matters is - what are you missing that you expect to find by adding a stone into the mix?
And - will you sense small nuances in edge development to a degree where it makes sense to chase them?

Sometimes, making adjustments like this will yield differences that might not be felt. Other times they might be felt. Someone telling you that you will or will not gain or lose anything isn't you, and has no clue about what you will or will not sense.
What is redundant to some might be the jam to someone else. Let people find their way.

I used to use Super Stones, a lotta self appointed poobahs made a lot of noise when I started using the 5k between 3k and 8k.
"you don't need it" "it's redundant" "makes no sense"; my favorite - "it's not necessary".
What wasn't necessary to them turned out to be golden for me. So... yeah.

As for 10k between 8k and 12k - been there...I used the full progression, except for the 2k. I won't get into why here because the peanut squad might want to argue about it and I don't have the energy for it.
And i don't use SS anymore anyway.
But if I did, I'd have a full set and I'd use them. Maybe not all the time or every time but for sure I'd be using all them a good amount of the time.
But probably not the 2k, I never liked that stone.
 
Are you needing more keenness from a 12k edge? Are you maxing out the 12k? Light finish laps on a freshly lapped clean stone face.

Some inexpensive 60-100 x magnification $15 will tell you. If you need more keenness without sacrificing comfort, a $10 stick of pure Chrome Oxide will take you to a near 20k edge.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
Normally I’d say no, in that progression it isn’t necessary. I have both.

The Europeans seem to like the N10k better than the N12k for reasons that were never clear to me. It does seem to be a different stone/binder, but it never really made a much different edge as far as I could tell.

These aren’t overly expensive stones, so you could get it and see if it will replace the 8k. 5k to 10k is not a big jump. A large number of stones with smaller grit steps certainly works, but I think that most of it is just spending more time on the rocks. You can spend the same time on two stones as four, especially if you’re observing the scratch pattern as you go up the grits, which you should be doing regardless. If the stones are designed to go in wider steps like the Shapton Glass HR, which is designed to go in 3x grit steps, that’s fine, they work well that way.
 
Sound advice here…
All being said I ordered one of these, Mossberg/Maverick 88. I needed a beater/truck gun and for the price this fits the bill pretty well. Thinking perhaps a J nat in the future. Just not sure thats a rabbit hole I care to travel down.
IMG_4772.jpeg

@Wid…Indeed a CZ would be a fine choice in many cases. I lucked into this 12 gauge
Bobwhite SxS a while back. Nice upland gun; does well on the sporting clays range too
IMG_3021.jpeg
 
I have come to the realization that the Naniwa SS progression is giving me the edge I best prefer. I currently have 1k, 3k, 5k, 8k, 12k stones in my arsenal. I'm gradually moving away from Arkansas stones but will surely keep my coticules.
Question...what might the collective wisdom say to adding a Naniwa SS 10k to the line up? Worth the purchase or redundant? Just looking for opinions.....
You have to figure out if it is worth it for you.

Smaller grit jumps have always worked better for me. The Naniwa super stones are good stones. However, they can be problematic if you spend too much time on one stone. Going from 8k to 12k is a small jump, and you should not need the 10k.
In my experience the 12k ss feels like a piece of plastic, so i like to spend as little time as possible on that stone. If the 10k gives a better honing feel, because of a slightly different binder, then that would limit the time i had to spend on the 12k, and possibly give a marginally different result.
These stones feels best when the surface is fresh, so the time spent on each step should be minimized if possible in my opinion. If you are planning to stay within the super stone lineup, it might add something.

I also prefer to put in a 6k after a 4k before moving to an 8k. It does not make a big difference, but i don't have to guess if the 4k striations are gone because of the small grit jump to the 8k. I even use an 2k after an 1k because i have one.

Small grit jumps enables you to move quite fast, because you get some overlap at each step, and you don't have to rely as much on feedback as you do with larger jumps.
 
Top Bottom