...unless it came from the big box store. But 10/32 drill/tap will make you a Gillette-sized screw hole.There is a 10/32 tap from Harbor Freight; used it to make a handle-hole once.
AA
Depending on how much you paid for the razor it might be just a easy to get a new one.Hey folks,
My Razor stripped its threads in the handle. I was gentle with it but it seems like the materials were the problem. I would like to rebuild the threads to be able to use the razor. Any advice ?
You can drill out the hole, and put in a threaded insert. Or somehow fill and re tap it.
You could also take a M5 x 0.8 bolt (or whatever threads your razor has) to stand in for the threads on your cap and apply a release agent to the bolt. Fill the hole with epoxy or JB weld, and thread the bolt into it. Loctite sells a kit like this.
Depending on how much you paid for the razor it might be just a easy to get a new one.
Thank you. Would this provide enough hold to counteract the pull on the threads when the head is fastened?
This is a Parker Variant which was promptly replaced by the seller with a new one.
With fine threads it’s hard to say. Thoroughly cleaning any surfaces that get glued up goes a long way.
Never had one of these apart but if this piece is brass and is totally covered up by the outside handle sleeve thing anyway, you could build it back up with filler rod and cut new threads.
Hello, one way would be using Helicoil or some similar thread insert. The cheapest solution would be to simply cut back the handle.
Adam
The threaded stud on the cap and barrel are yellow brass, on the Parker V
doubt it, look at all the old Gillette 3 piece razors. I'd be inclined to think it's some other thread, thread alignment or user issue.Yes. I’m wondering bring brass is why it stripped.
Hey folks,
My Razor stripped its threads in the handle. I was gentle with it but it seems like the materials were the problem. I would like to rebuild the threads to be able to use the razor. Any advice ?
If the threads on the head are good you can try this: Use a silicone dry lube for bike chains or similar. It dries out and leaves a slick film rather than an oily layer. Spray the whole head, wipe off the excess, and repeat a few times for good measure then let it dry out. You don't want epoxy sticking to the head. While you are at it, clean out the threaded hole on the handle.
If you have PVC pipe primer use that. It seems to slightly etch as well as degrease. You do want epoxy sticking here.
Then mix some epoxy, (JB Weld, Devcon, etc.) and put a small amount in the opening of the handle. (Too much won't allow the head to screw all the way down.) As the head is screwed in, the male threaded part will act as a ram and force epoxy into the voids left by stripping. Let it cure for 24 hours then...in a perfect world..., the head unscrews. All the silicone you sprayed on the head should act as a release agent.
I hesitate to post this without infinity caveats so proceed at your peril. I've not tried this with a razor but have done similar with other marginally equivalent mechanical parts. It should work for this and it worked for me. However, you might want to test out the silicone spray and epoxy you have on a non-critical part first. Get a machine screw, treat it with silicone dry lube, let dry, then stand it into a blob of epoxy that covers a few threads. If it does not unscrew easily when the epoxy is cured don't try it.