Help shaving trouble spots

[The Blackadder]

Hi there. I’d like to ask for advice to get whiskers in some trouble spots. First of all, my hair grows flat on several places, and the razor seems to pass over them instead of catching them. Yesterday I tried with my Progress in setting 2 and a Treet Platinum (2). Prep consisted of a wash with a cleanser (warm water), 2 minute- patting with warm water, Cremo as a pre-shave and Nivea Sensitive on top (bowl lather). For instance, this is my right cheek

I also have a problem with the right side of my neck. The hair grows kind of sideways and flat. I always finish with some stubble there because I quit to avoid irritation. Normally I only do WTG (two passes and touch ups) because my skin is very complicated.

Should I try a sharper blade? Change angle? Improve my prep? I don’t shave after a shower, it really bothers my face. Thanks a lot

 

[luvmysuper]

Your hair pattern is similar to mine, though I don't have sensitive skin.
I would suggest that you really, really look hard at your shaving angle.
You ought to be able to cut those whiskers with a WTG pass.
Not BBS, but cut off.
If your angle is not steep enough, the blade will only cut hair that stands far off the skin. If your angle is too steep, then your essentially scraping your face with the edge of the blade. This causes irritation.
Put the razor head against your face, with the handle parallel to the floor.
Start lowering the end of the handle towards the floor until you start cutting hair.
A little tweak up or down and you should be good.
Better to start off with a little steeper and dial it in rather than shallow, because, as I said, you'll be paint scraping your face.

 

[luvmysuper]

Pics explaining in this wiki page

Blade Angle

IntroductionRazor geometry and angles|Some razor geometry and terminology.

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[luvmysuper]

Lower down on that page are some photos which really help.
You'll note that there is NOT a huge difference in the angles.

Position 5 as shown is likely to result in skin scraping and irritation

Position 6 shows the blade at the right angle, cutting whisker close

Position 7 is too far the other way, and you won't be effectively removing hair

 

[Phoenixkh]

For some strange reason, I have always started with the handle parallel to my face and lifted the handle until I can feel the blade engage. I end up shaving on the steep side of neutral most often, I think. The razors I use regularly all like that approach... or I do. not sure which is more accurate. I know some people say they are a steep shaver.... or a shallow shaver. I don't consider myself attached to either group. I really do try to find the sweet spot for every razor I use. I don't pay attention to the angle as much as I do the sound...... along with the feel.... as the razor cuts off the whiskers. I find it esp. useful on the second XTG and the third ATG pass. The sound gets softer and softer as the whiskers disappear.

I'm still learning with every shave. I know this sounds a bit silly... but I've only been traditional wet shaving for a year and a half or so. I hope I continue to consider myself a learner even after I've been doing this for years. I think it adds to the shaves' enjoyment. I do know, when I think I've got this razor figured out and try to shave on true autopilot, I end up not paying close enough attention and clipping one of the many little bumps I have on my face.

I did map my whisker patterns as was recommended by so many people here. That did help with my problem areas, that's for sure. I still use my left hand to rub against my skin in my problem areas as I'm getting them smooth. Not really to figure out which way the growth is.... but to see if I need to do a few more buffing strokes on my chin area, mostly.. and around my Adam's apple as those have proved to be the areas that are razor resistant.

 

[The Blackadder]

Thanks both. Another thing I’ve noticed is, different from YouTube videos, my passes rarely leave a clean face, it’s like the razor has trouble removing all the soap. I know the idea is to shave gradually by hair reduction, but in my case the remains of uncut stubble and soap are very noticeable. Does it also have to do with blade angle?

 

[luvmysuper]

Thanks both. Another thing I’ve noticed is, different from YouTube videos, my passes rarely leave a clean face, it’s like the razor has trouble removing all the soap. I know the idea is to shave gradually by hair reduction, but in my case the remains of uncut stubble and soap are very noticeable. Does it also have to do with blade angle?

Yes. If the blade isn't cutting hair, it's far enough away from the skin to leave some residual soap.

 

[Wgg2017]

Once you get the angle issues sorted out you might also try an across the grain (xtg) pass after the wtg pass, or even a pass somewhere in between xtg and wtg if a pure xtg pass is too aggressive.

 

[Swank]

I think I hit on something today. I used Cremo first pass where I normally use it last pass.

Whipped up some Proraso red in the tube. Then I'd do a stroke and back the razor up and this would lay the lather back on my face. Really good shave, remarkable even. Only trouble was some weepers under my lip which I attribute to using an Astra for 3 shaves instead of two. Also needed styptic on two spots on my neck which I again attribute to the blade being dull. Dull, but comfortable. I have to remember to stop at 2 shaves per Astra.

So anyway try backing up and see if the lather laid back down helps with a cushion.

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

For some strange reason, I have always started with the handle parallel to my face and lifted the handle until I can feel the blade engage. I end up shaving on the steep side of neutral most often, I think. The razors I use regularly all like that approach... or I do. not sure which is more accurate. I know some people say they are a steep shaver.... or a shallow shaver. I don't consider myself attached to either group. I really do try to find the sweet spot for every razor I use. I don't pay attention to the angle as much as I do the sound...... along with the feel.... as the razor cuts off the whiskers. I find it esp. useful on the second XTG and the third ATG pass. The sound gets softer and softer as the whiskers disappear.

I'm still learning with every shave. I know this sounds a bit silly... but I've only been traditional wet shaving for a year and a half or so. I hope I continue to consider myself a learner even after I've been doing this for years. I think it adds to the shaves' enjoyment. I do know, when I think I've got this razor figured out and try to shave on true autopilot, I end up not paying close enough attention and clipping one of the many little bumps I have on my face.

I did map my whisker patterns as was recommended by so many people here. That did help with my problem areas, that's for sure. I still use my left hand to rub against my skin in my problem areas as I'm getting them smooth. Not really to figure out which way the growth is.... but to see if I need to do a few more buffing strokes on my chin area, mostly.. and around my Adam's apple as those have proved to be the areas that are razor resistant.

This seems counterintuitive to me. To my way of thinking (when trying to find the angle), I'll start on the shallow side - riding the cap. I'll increase the angle until I've balanced cutting hair with comfort/feel.

I don't know why one would start with a steep angle, which means you're passing through the "scraping zone" in order to find the sweet spot.

... Thom

 

[Phoenixkh]

Yeah, I’ve heard it both ways, truth be told. I would guess you way is the most common. Had someone taught me to shave, it’s likely I’d be doing it that way.

If we end up at the sweet spot, perhaps it doesn’t matter how we get there. I’ll wager how wide the sweet spot is also comes into play.