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Rolls Razor

I recondition the strops on my Rolls sets with Lubriderm skin cream. After all, leather is animal skin, right? I apply a liberal layer, let it sit overnight and wipe off any excess. On really dry strops I may have to do this a couple of times.

Then I apply a layer of a mixture of mineral oil and .1 micron FeOx, let it soak in again overnight and again wipe off any excess.

I condition the hones with vaseline.

I hone the blades outside the case when I can't get an edge I like with the case hone. I use lapping film, the same way I hone the blades for other wedge blade razors. I use 2 layers of electrical tape, extending past the blade an inch or so on either side so I have something to hang onto.

--Bob
 
Scooby Doo can you tell me if this stone would be ok to use as I came across it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liabahtKgm0

DRAGONS TONGUE WELSH SLATE HONE WITH SLURRY STONE he says its about 8k don't know if this is any good
I am learning to use lapping film at the moment..I have never used stones..Check out this thread..In the USA its quite cheap & becoming a popular Honing Progression Method..All the Intel you need is here..:thumbup1:

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/283576-Lapping-film-try-it


Billy
 
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See My thread above and the Link I showed..One Layer of Tape should be enough to set it at the correct Bevel for within the Rolls System..The Gap is taken when the handle is Taught & the blade is on the Pad..One Layer does it..:001_cool:


Billy

Thanks Billy, I used two layers of Super 88 and the blade has a good edge, I used a Chosera 1K to set the bevel then 4/8 Shapton GS stones and finished on a Okudo Asagi with a light slurry so will use that edge and strop with the internal one and then start over with one layer if it does not work.
 
just ordered some lapping film 9, 5, 3, 1, 0.3 and then go from there and see how it goes I will let you know of the outcome just hoping I have got the right film now but reading the post it seems those get used the most.
but a BIG THANKS TO ALL and a special thanks to Scooby Doo Billy
 
Thanks Billy, I used two layers of Super 88 and the blade has a good edge, I used a Chosera 1K to set the bevel then 4/8 Shapton GS stones and finished on a Okudo Asagi with a light slurry so will use that edge and strop with the internal one and then start over with one layer if it does not work.
Aye.One or Two layers will be Fine ..There will be slightly different tolerances in them depending on age & condition..:001_cool:


Billy
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Google for my Rolls thread. You need a Slashtool. (tm).

The in case Hone and strop are woefully inadequate for getting the most out of the blade. Properly honed and stropped these razors deliver excellent shaves.
 
I got my first Rolls several months ago. The blade was not shave ready. All I had was the Rolls setup. I reconditioned the strop, the hone was fine. I must have done 1,000 cycles on that thing to get it to be shave ready. I can get a nice 3 pass shave on the blade now with no tugging. I can tell it needs to be sharper. I just received the lapping paper last week. I will be teaching myself how to hone these.

I just traded for another Rolls with 2 nice blades. So I will have 3 blades to bugger up.:w00t:

Oh also the Rolls shaves awesome to boot.
 
Google for my Rolls thread. You need a Slashtool. (tm).

The in case Hone and strop are woefully inadequate for getting the most out of the blade. Properly honed and stropped these razors deliver excellent shaves.
I just looked at you're Slash Tool thread there Ingenious..I have found myself that the blade takes a Keener Edge when Stropped on leather outside the system & its down to lighter pressure as you say..I thought it was all in my head but you have just confirmed it for me..:001_cool:


Billy
 
Finally received my first Rolls. Decided to give it a good cleaning before starting to hone the blade and get a shave with it.

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Seems to have all the original paper works (serials all match) and box with it. From what i've gathered it's an "earlier model", but unfortunately no year on the blade, so it must have been replaced somewhere down the line.
 
Can't edit my post anymore, so sorry for the DP.

The parts are now in ultrasonic bath, and i'm now focusing on the strop and hone.
They seem to be in quite good condition, and i was going to flatten the hone on a 1000 grit diamond plate, and rub some neatsfoot oil on the back of the strop. Is this a good way to go, or should i sand the strop, and put some oil on both sides (and then put some new compound on it)?
 
Can't edit my post anymore, so sorry for the DP.

The parts are now in ultrasonic bath, and i'm now focusing on the strop and hone.
They seem to be in quite good condition, and i was going to flatten the hone on a 1000 grit diamond plate, and rub some neatsfoot oil on the back of the strop. Is this a good way to go, or should i sand the strop, and put some oil on both sides (and then put some new compound on it)?
The Strop looks in good condition..If you wash it down with some Baking Soda it will lift any Gunk that's been there over the years and old Stropping paste..Let it Dry & the Oil should make it supple..The Rolls System pushes the blade Flat & it should be fine..The Hone can gently be cleaned up as well by a light sand papering..The Key is getting them in good Nick & they look fine..:w00t:


Billy
 
The Strop looks in good condition..If you wash it down with some Baking Soda it will lift any Gunk that's been there over the years and old Stropping paste..Let it Dry & the Oil should make it supple..The Rolls System pushes the blade Flat & it should be fine..The Hone can gently be cleaned up as well by a light sand papering..The Key is getting them in good Nick & they look fine..:w00t:


Billy

Baking soda? :w00t: Any instructions for that?
The strop is actually surprisingly soft, but i figured i might as well properly condition the thing since it's already off the lid.
 
Never mind. Managed to find some:

Mix up a paste from the baking soda and water. The paste should be slightly thinner than today’ s toothpaste. When you got that prepared, congratulations, you’ve just made your grandmother’s toothpaste. Next add several drops of hand dish soap to the paste and mix well.

Place the strop and hone on a piece of paper towel or cloth towel. Scrub the hone frist with the past you made earlier and the toothbrush. Massive pressure isn't required but scrub away with this concoction. It cleans but is fairly harmless to leather and stone. When you've finished with the hone, move on to the strop. Rinse and repeat as required to remove the grime, oil and old strop paste.

Worked great, and now the strop seems to be free of all gunk/paste. Just need to wait for a day or so for it to dry, and then rub some neatsfoot oil on it. :001_smile
 
Got the thing cleaned up and polished. Also put it back together. Now all it needs is the strop back in it's place, and get the blade honed. :001_smile

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Finished the resto, and honed the blade. :001_smile

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Now the problem is that the strop and hone look so nice, that i really don't want to use them. :laugh:
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Now the problem is that the strop and hone look so nice, that i really don't want to use them. :laugh:

Okay, so don't. Seriously, honing and stropping out of the case gives much better results.

You sure got the hone and strop looking nice, though. As nice as I have ever seen.
 
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