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Worst DIY job to tackle??

Ratso

Mr. Obvious
Hanging wall paper. 30 plus years ago I was wallpapering my son’s bedroom. He ran downstairs and asked wife “why is daddy kicking the wall paper?” The wallpaper was white with multicolored vertical stripes an inch apart. Everything was fine until I got to the first corner.
 
Mudding and sanding drywall really sucks, but the worst is when a simple, straight forward, job goes really wrong. Especially if you end up bringing in the professionals.
I was going to replace my old spigots with frost free ones. Tried turning off the main and the pipe cracked before the shut off and began leaking. Called the neighbor, who is a plumber. This was a Saturday, so he got the leak minimized but couldn't do the full repair until Monday.
Ordered the parts and came to do the work but couldn't find the curb stop going to the house, finally found it, after about an hour and had to break out the sidewalk it was under. Couldn't turn it off. Later found out the riser pipe had crumbled and was blocking the valve. Had to schedule a backhoe 2 days later and dig up and replace the curb stop and riser.
Finally, he was able to install a new meter as the previous was outdated and the new shutoffs. I could finally turn off the water and install my frost free spigots, only 5 days late and several thousand dollars poorer.
 
What is difficult in renovation as other people have said is what you don’t know. What started out as a floor replacement turned into a major reconstruction project. We were lucky the entire front of the house didn’t fall in.
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Plumbing can be a pain in the gluteus maximus! It usually starts off with a simple replace and/or repair job but then gets more complicated as more things end up needing replacing and/or repairing.

I once had to change my reverse osmosis water purifier under my kitchen sink. In the process, I snapped off the handle to a valve on the water purifier. Next, the cold water shut off valve, which supplied water to the water purifier, snapped off when I went to turn off the water. I had to shut off the water to my house at the main line before going on a hunt for the right replacement valve for the water purifier.

Unfortunately, after a search of my local hardware stores, I couldn't find the right valve as I needed one that had different sized ends. Instead, I had to connect two different sized valves to jerry rig a workable valve for my water purifier.

Additionally, I had to remove the broken cold water shutoff valve. Fortunately, one of my local hardware stores had the right sized valve, though it took me a couple trips to find the right one. However, removing the broken valve turned out to be more of a problem. The plumber used some sort of dope that hardened into a form of cement. It took me a good amount of effort to weaken the bonds and break the cement before I could remove the broken valve.

Keep in mind that all of the work was under the kitchen sink. So I had to contort my fat middle-aged body under the kitchen sink, with my back halfway hanging out of the under sink cupboard, trying not to break the cupboard doors off their hinges, and doing most of the work by feel as I still couldn't see much even with my headlamp turned on. When I wasn't praying that I didn't accidentally destroy the 50 year old pipes by turning my wrenches too hard, I was swearing at them. 🤬

A couple years later, I had to replace the under sink garbage disposal and the faucet. It dredged up bad memories. Unfortunately, I found myself once again contorting my fat middle-ages body under the kitchen sink, with my back halfway hanging out of the under sink cupboard, trying not to break the cupboard doors off their hinges, and doing most of the work by feel as I still couldn't see much even with my headlamp turned on. Fortunately, none of the valves broke this time. However, I unexpectedly had to replace some of the PVC pipes under the sink in order to account for the size difference between the old and new garbage disposals. 😖

Of course, after making all the repairs, there's always the risk of leaks. So both times I made repairs, before putting everything back under the sink, I placed some pans to catch any leaks overnight. Luckily for me, I think I managed to make good repairs as I didn't find any leaks the following mornings.
I can certainly relate to this. Last year I replaced all the bathroom faucets as they were beat up looking and used gate values. Getting them out was probably the most difficult part. The wrench not budging added to the pain of the cabinet base digging into my lower back. I made a small platform from some scrap 2x4s and cardboard to support my backside while my upper body was contorted inside the cabinet.

Getting the drain tailpipe aligned while reusing the p-trap went well on a couple of sinks, but not on some others. Manage to cross thread one of the p-trap connectors attempting to reuse it, so had to cut out a section to replace. After fighting with that and somewhat understanding the cause, I wanted to ask a plumbing engineer, why does the industry suggest that the horizontal section of a p-trap be tilted by 1-2 degrees. While I understand that helps the water drain away, that would happen anyway as more water enters from above. Since the tailpipe under a sink drops straight down, the various pipe sections no longer squarely align by that same degree. Looks like most faucet drain kits come with a thick rubber washer to help deal with the misalignment at the point where sink drain connects underneath, but I was concerned if the p-trap ever clogs that water would then come out of the top of the tailpipe.
 
Water penetration around/under the door?
Yep. And no membrane around the front of the door. The previous owners hired a jack of all trades contractor. His favorite trick was the bracing. He would take 3-2/4s vertically screw them together and mount them to a 2/6, then wedge them under a joist.

Quite a few years ago we decided to take off the deck. It was 20/40 ft deck. My wife decided to help and we got to the main supports. I told her this is where it gets tough as the 4x4s will be cemented in. I pulled on one and found he had used his foot trick. He took the 4x4 then mounted it to 2x6 and buried it in gravel. He didn’t put one support in the ground. We literally had a floating deck. We were fortunate the entire deck didn’t collapse. I have fixed 99% of everything. I just never know what I will get into. I used to get mad now I just expect something to be done halfway. I just fix it and move on.
 
I’m a carpenter by trade, but any water supply related work gives me the heebie jeebies cause 80% of the work I do is water damage restoration. I know how to do the simple things, but I still worry if a line is going to fail when I’m off on a 3 day weekend trip.
A line water line failure is also my biggest fear. My neighbor came from a long vacation to discover water coming out the door because of a leaking washing machine hose. They had to replace all the flooring and part of the walls. I have noticed a few other homes that I drive past with water damage restoration company trucks parked outside. And a big pipe of ductwork, as if there was a major water leak while away from home.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
A line water line failure is also my biggest fear. My neighbor came from a long vacation to discover water coming out the door because of a leaking washing machine hose. They had to replace all the flooring and part of the walls. I have noticed a few other homes that I drive past with water damage restoration company trucks parked outside. And a big pipe of ductwork, as if there was a major water leak while away from home.
Yeah. I use a braided steel re-enforced washer, sink and toilet supply lines, dishwasher hoses, etc.. They aren’t a guarantee, but they do reduce the risk.
 
I had a water main break, which seems to be a common thread here. That didn’t bother me half as much as taping drywall. I jumped in the water, which was filling the basement. Later, after the town turned off the water as I couldn’t do it at the house, I realized that if the water was a few inches deeper, it would have reached the outlets. Could have been a bad day for me. I still would rather have a flooded basement than tape drywall.
 
I don't touch plumbing or electrics. Electrical bodging can kill and plumbing can get very messy. I'm prepared to bite the bullet and pay for someone's expertise. Like that quote from some movie I can't remember, "A man's got to know his limitations".

I don't mind the actual painting, but the prep work really annoys me. Just when I think I'm finished, I notice another spot that's not right and have to correct it. Even if it's behind the door and 75 mm (circa 3") off the floor.
This is almost like a curse. I am guessing there is a strong correlation between the person who takes the time and effort to learn what to do and then being more acutely aware of any defect whether major or minor. I notice this all the time when I am repainting.

After painting one room I suddenly see defects in a second room that I would never accept from myself and work to fix them. But when I figuratively take a step back, I tell myself that defect has been there for years and no one ever noticed or cared. That I don't need to scrape away every old paint drip, or fix every drywall defect that can be seen when shining a flashlight across the wall. In fact, I would recommend that you don't shine a flashlight across your drywall, whether you finished it or not, as you might be disappointed by what appears.
 
Scraping popcorn ceiling easily the worst even beats out painting for me.
What about scraping caulk that is over the popcorn ceiling? My home has popcorn ceilings which I have been slowly (over some years) removing. Looks like the ceilings were sprayed, then crown moulding installed, and lastly the seam caulked between the ceiling and crown. At the beginning I was trying to remove all that caulk as sometimes it was bumpy from the popcorn and I wanted to get rid of every last kernel, but I did quickly saw the diminishing returns in doing that.
 
Right up there with removing popcorn is removing wallpaper.
Yeah, this can be a nightmare. My master bathroom was wallpapered and parts of it were "relatively" easy to remove. When removing I realized that the previous owner had glued down many of the seams that had been coming loose in an effort to make it look mostly okay. Not sure what kind of glue was used on the seams, but it was not easy to remove and caused a lot of damage. But it was my main motivation to buy a set of drywall knives and learn (still learning) to refinish drywall.
 
What about scraping caulk that is over the popcorn ceiling? My home has popcorn ceilings which I have been slowly (over some years) removing. Looks like the ceilings were sprayed, then crown moulding installed, and lastly the seam caulked between the ceiling and crown. At the beginning I was trying to remove all that caulk as sometimes it was bumpy from the popcorn and I wanted to get rid of every last kernel, but I did quickly saw the diminishing returns in doing that.
Did not have to deal with that in my case but that did not sound fun. I just hate how the popcorn goes everywhere when your scrape it and you look like I don't know what when you are done. In top of it out is seriously exhausting working over your head like that. Then I sponge the whole ceiling to get rid of all the remaining popcorn dust otherwise the mud does not stick to the dry wall. It is just a mess.
 
For those of you looking to remove popcorn ceilings, please be careful. Asbestos was commonly used in popcorn ceilings. Scraping asbestos can release small particles of it into the air and into your lungs.* Also, if you're in the US, the Clean Air Act also regulates how asbestos is to be disposed (i.e., you can't just toss it into your trash).

*Asbestosis can develop as a result.
 
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