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White Mountains weekend

I am not a skier. Never have been. I went to school in Boston to be closer to the mountains of NH, but never had the time or money to ski. I moved to FL in 1990. I like it warm and I like to surf year round without a 6mm suit. Well, nearly 24 years later, my wife decided she wants to try to ski. Now. The plane tickets are purchased, the room is booked. Happy Valentine's Day! Off we went Friday evening, loaded with bargain priced snow gear (Seems it's hard to move snow pants and ski jackets in SW FL when it is 80 degrees and sunny.), just after Thursday's Nor'easter that dumped about 16" in the White Mountains.

My sister and brother-in-law, who vacation in warmer weather in NH (summited Mt. Washington with them a few Junes ago), picked us up at Logan Airport in Boston and we made our way to The Lodge at Bretton Woods in Bartlett, NH, a two story motel across the street from the historic Mount Washington Hotel, and part of the Mount Washington Resort. I thought I'd never want to be here in the winter, but here I was, and it was freezing. There would be no worries about lack of snow or rain on the mountain (though I heard someone say that 2 weeks earlier you could have golfed on the course!). More snow would be coming this weekend. It was 1 am Saturday and we had lessons on the mountain in several hours. Off to bed in a very warm room.

This is the view from The Lodge. You look across 302, across the golf course, to the hotel, up the Cog Railway, to Mt. Washington. And it was cold. High in the 20s. The gear was keeping us warm, though. Base layers, wool socks to the knees, snow pants, ski jackets, buffs, gloves, hoods, boots. We took the shuttle over to the golf course as the Nordic skiers have a lodge there. Many miles of cross country ski trails in this area. We said goodbye to my sister and took the shuttle up the street to Bretton Woods and the Alpine Ski Center. It was busy. President's Day on Monday and Massachusetts kids are out of school this week. We rented the gear (super efficient and pleasant resort staff despite the volume) and waited for our lessons. My wife would be skiing and I wanted to learn to snowboard. Here is the view at the Learning Quad.

Ski lessons went well for my wife. Halfway through she called to me from the lift. Seems her instructor felt she was ready to go up the mountain. I stayed with my instructor and a 12 year old girl; a fellow snowboard newb. We were taken to the Maiden Hill with the 4-8 year olds after our lesson. Seems I wasn't ready to go up the mountain. "That's it?" I asked after several low velocity turns and a few falls. "That's it," Dustin from California said as he presented a gloveless hand as a good luck gesture. I slid down the Maiden Hill a couple times, desperately trying to avoid much of Boston's promising youth, but taking out cones and padded obstacles in the process. I was ready to give up, but I heard my wife cheerfully call from the lift line. She'd already gone down a green trail twice and wanted me to go back up with her. I wasn't sure I could get on the lift chair, never mind down the mountain. I skated over, fearful of dropping into the pit and forcing the operator to stop the lift, in front of about 50 people, some way more proficient than me at five and six years old. The chair came around and as the board left the platform I felt it twist the knee of my front foot, still strapped to the snowboard. I hoped this wasn't a foreshadowing event.

Shoot! The peacefulness of the lift ride above folks shushing down white powder slopes was shattered by the realization that I had never gotten OFF a ski lift before. The operators began yelling, "Stand up NOW!" I stood up, knees and hips flexed, arms spread wide, and safey glided to the bottom of the drop zone. Before I knew it, my wife was snow plowing her way down the mountain, but I hadn't strapped in yet. I'd have to do it alone.

It seemed like there were a lot of people. And it looked much steeper than the Maiden Hill. Yeesh. After confidently strapping the rear foot in (I'm a regular foot), I sat awhile. A good while. I watched a handful of what seemed like toddlers charge down the hill, then I stood up with the board across the slope, heel edge set in the snow. And I watched a good while longer. I noticed the woman at the top of the lift was watching me. Had to go for it now. I looked up at the chute where a couple of steeper trails fed in. Nobody coming. I went.

I turned the nose downhill and started sliding. I was headed off the trail to the left. I leaned toe side and the edge caught, turning me back to the right and to the middle of the trail. It seemed like everything fell into place then. I got across the trail and leaned heel side. The weight shifts that became falls on the smaller hill were turning into long carves on the steeper slope. I wanted more speed. I leaned down the hill. Speed came immediately as did loss of control. The nose started drifting right and my rear foot was swinging around to the left behind me. I needed to get on a heel side turn, but as soon as I made the move, the downhill edge caught. Down on the butt of my ski pants, and I don't know how many times I rolled, with the board helicoptering, before I stopped. I looked around and there was a couple of twenty-somethings sitting in the snow at the side of the trail trying not to look at me. I smiled wide and said, "Isn't this a blast!" I was back to being a kid on the sledding hill, trying to stand on the family toboggan, and cartwheeling out of control. They said they were just learning, too, and stood back up and slid toward the bottom. As with every other athletic endeavor I've undertaken, I did the same. I got back up and made my way down to the lift.
 
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We took several more runs down the green trail, gaining proficiency each run. I moved over to the small hills and a little bowl section and felt as though I had a good foundation. Turning, speed control, and stopping were becoming predictable. We left the mountain and joined my sister back at the Nordic Center. We had a great lunch and beverages at Stickneys in the Omni Hotel at Mt. Washington Resort. This is a great old resort at the foot of Mt. Washington. It is pricey, but if you stay in any one of the resorts hotels you can enjoy the amenities, or you can walk in for dining or drinks. A free shuttle runs 24 hours a day.

There is a cool spot in the basement of the main hotel called The Cave. This was a speakeasy in Prohibition times. Music and drinks on weekend nights now. Here is the view from inside, looking out.

And The Cave before opening that night

We went back to The Lodge, went swimming in the heated (75 degrees) pool, sat in the whirlpool and sauna, and took a nap before dinner at a pub in North Conway called Delaney's. Big flakes were falling as we left, and we'd need some sleep before hitting the mountain again in the morning. If we went back. The wife was starting to transmit a feeling that maybe she'd experienced it and she was done.
 
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The snow had stopped and the skies were clear when we woke Sunday. But it was colder. The temp while skiing, if we went, would be in the teens with wind chills just below zero due to a howling NW wind of 25+ mph. You could see snow billowing over the crest and summit of Mt. Washington from The Lodge.

We went north to a small breakfast spot in Whitefield called Grandma's to mull our options for the day. Along Route 3 were many cross country and snow mobile tracks in the 3" of fresh snow that came down in the night. As we waited for our homemade breakfast, 3 snowmobiles pulled up to the restaurant. Many modes of transportation here in winter! We enjoyed eggs, sausage, French toast, real maple syrup, toast and got back in the SUV. Yes. We were ready to try the mountain again. My sister and her husband dropped us at Bretton Woods before heading back towards Whitefield to cross country ski (turned out to be a bit cheaper to rent than at Mt. Washington Resort).

It was much easier to get equipment as most were already out on the mountain. We made run after run down the same green trail on a half day pass. The wind and cold were not a problem as long as you kept exposed skin to a minimum and kept moving. She was making a couple of runs for each of my runs as I had to strap in at the top and she would take off right away. I also tumbled a couple more times, or ran out of speed in flat stretches and had to unstrap to get back to where I needed to be. We were very happy we decided to go back out. Next time we head up higher!

It was nearing dark and we went back to the Omni Hotel to meet my sister and brother-in-law, who skied cross country for a few hours, for warm cider and other beverages, and dinner, served to us at a table which had a game of checkers set up. We played a couple of games of checkers, then got a deck of cards. We had a lot of laughs before heading back to The Lodge.
 
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We only had a few hours Monday before we needed to head back to Boston. We drove down through Crawford Notch and stopped at a Cider House for some fresh apple cinnamon doughnuts and coffee. My brother-in-law pointed out cars parked at the side of the road for hiking and camping in the woods despite the deep snow. We were going to have breakfast at Priscilla's in North Conway, but the wait was an hour. The doughnuts held us as we walked the shops in North Conway. Eventually we ate lunch at Horsefeather's, which has changed quite a bit since we were last there. It was time to head back to Boston. There was moderate volume, but it moved steadily and in a little over 3 hrs we were in Copley Square for the night (The Fairmont at Copley, for its history and cool quotient, deserves its own discussion!). The White Mountains are easily accessible from Boston (Maybe more so than the locals might like!) and it is ironic that I didn't start trekking there until well after I had moved to Florida. I had never been in the winter, but I look forward to going back with many recreational opportunities available. I just hope we can avoid the snow delay we had in Boston yesterday with a third system that moved through New England in less than a week! While we were unlucky in that regard, we had perfect conditions for our first time at Bretton Woods! Highly recommend the resort and environs for a weekend any time of the year!
 
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I posted hoping you'd see it. I know you spend a good deal of time out this way. I don't know if I want to come back in the summer to hike up Tuck's to the summit or in the winter for one of the ski areas. Attitash looked packed as we drove by Monday, but my wife said she liked the look of the wider trails toward the base.
 
I posted hoping you'd see it. I know you spend a good deal of time out this way. I don't know if I want to come back in the summer to hike up Tuck's to the summit or in the winter for one of the ski areas. Attitash looked packed as we drove by Monday, but my wife said she liked the look of the wider trails toward the base.

Ive never skied Attitash for just that reason. Wildcat is just far enough up 16 to filter out a lot of folks. It's also exposed to the west winds off the Presis. Always check the weather religiously before I go. Great views of Tucks.

Come back in summer and we can hike something less ambitious than W.
 
Thanks for the insight. I remember getting a great look at Wildcat both on the ascent of MW and coming back down via the Auto Road and the Old Jackson trail (I think?). I'll let you know when I'm headed back that way!
 
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