SR Pinning Hole is 2mm. Can I use 1/16" rod?

[whistler]

Newbie here. I was sanding my SR I got recently and broke a scale at the pivot.
I've now removed the scales and was doing some research on how to re-scale it.

The diameter of the pinning hole on my SR is 2mm or 5/64" (tested with a 2mm drill bit).
I've noticed that most (all?) SR restoration kits include a 1/16" or 1.59mm pinning rod and washers with the same inner diameter.

When I tried passing through a 1.5mm drill bit through the pinning hole on my SR, it was sort of loose. 2mm is perfect.

Would a 1/16" or 1.59mm pinning rod be suited for my SR scale restore?

Thanks.

 

[kcb5150]

You're better off with the play especially if it is an old wedge

 

[whistler]

You're better off with the play especially if it is an old wedge

It's a full hollow, still okay?

 

[kcb5150]

You're still better off with play. Most of us who peen use the same rod stock and it doesn't give issues.

 

[whistler]

You're still better off with play. Most of us who peen use the same rod stock and it doesn't give issues.

Ok. Thank you.

 

[karlej]

The 1/16 rod is perfect and correct. The pivot hole should be larger than the pin. On the old Sheffields the holes were made with a punch and some are over 1/8". Even at that size 1/16" rod is correct. Some folks have an OCD and go so far as to sleeve the hole but it is unnecessary and was not done by the old masters. Make sure you leave enough distance between the wedge and the blade toe so it does not hit the wedge as the blade will move back and forth a bit. We tend to tuck the blades up closer to the wedge today then they did back in the day. 1/8" between the wedge and blade is a good target.

 

[whistler]

The 1/16 rod is perfect and correct. The pivot hole should be larger than the pin. On the old Sheffields the holes were made with a punch and some are over 1/8". Even at that size 1/16" rod is correct. Some folks have an OCD and go so far as to sleeve the hole but it is unnecessary and was not done by the old masters. Make sure you leave enough distance between the wedge and the blade toe so it does not hit the wedge as the blade will move back and forth a bit. We tend to tuck the blades up closer to the wedge today then they did back in the day. 1/8" between the wedge and blade is a good target.

Got it. Thank you karlej.

 

[Gamma]

Correct - is what I say it is for the job on my bench. I just used 3/32" brass rod to repin the pivot on a big W&B. Most of the time I do use 1/16" stock but there really are no rules here. Note - most commonly found collars and washers (sold for restoring razors) will not accommodate thicker rods without modification.

 

[whistler]

Correct - is what I say it is for the job on my bench. I just used 3/32" brass rod to repin the pivot on a big W&B. Most of the time I do use 1/16" stock but there really are no rules here. Note - most commonly found collars and washers (sold for restoring razors) will not accommodate thicker rods without modification.

Ok. Thanks Gamma.