Sink vs. Straight ~ can this be saved?

[jd1965]

If the blade is stiff enough that will work.

It is really thin...

 

[jd1965]

Mark has some of my razors right now. I am now afraid.....very afraid.


Sorry for your loss on the Genco, that sucks.

thanks, it does suck...

 

[onimaru55]

It is really thin...

Up to you but not trying at all is a guaranteed fail.
Even an exercise in futility can teach you a lot.

 

[jd1965]

Up to you but not trying at all is a guaranteed fail.
Even an exercise in futility can teach you a lot.

Good point!
Just taking the scales off will teach me something.
I think I will give this a shot as an exercise.

It can always be launched after that.
Thanks for the input!!
John

 

[Slash McCoy]

I've been trying my hand at straight shaving for a few weeks.
I got this razor back from Bluemantra (Justin) last week... free honing, awesome edge!
On Sunday I was trying ATG passes and was using a light touch, trying to get the feel. The light touch translated into a light grip and the razor slipped and fell to the sink. First glance it appeared that there was a large chip... but no, it's a huge split. (at myself.. clumsy... grrrrr)
So, can this be salvaged in any form? I was thinking it may be possible to remove the metal at the lines I marked.... I don't know.
Any ideas would be appreciated!!

Thanks,
John

I would breadknife it down past the crack and just let it be a 4/8 or whatever. You will have to do something about the stabilizer because it will intrude into the plane of the bevel and cause excessive hone wear to the tip. You could spot-grind the stabilizer with a dremel. It won't be pretty but it will be functional. Anyway you can end up with something that will still shave, if you are up to the challenge.

Notching out from the tang to the crack is do-able but I would rather have a narrow blade than a short edge. However, concerns about disassociation of the edge from the shoulder are not strictly warranted. I have used many shoulderless razors and as long as you are careful, they will do the job okay.

When spot grinding, heat is your enemy. Don't let your blade get too hot. The edge is particularly vulnerable to heat buildup!

Here is a brief explanation of breadknifing:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188325&page=20

Good luck and happy shaves!

 

[jd1965]

I would breadknife it down past the crack and just let it be a 4/8 or whatever. You will have to do something about the stabilizer because it will intrude into the plane of the bevel and cause excessive hone wear to the tip. You could spot-grind the stabilizer with a dremel. It won't be pretty but it will be functional. Anyway you can end up with something that will still shave, if you are up to the challenge.

Notching out from the tang to the crack is do-able but I would rather have a narrow blade than a short edge. However, concerns about disassociation of the edge from the shoulder are not strictly warranted. I have used many shoulderless razors and as long as you are careful, they will do the job okay.

When spot grinding, heat is your enemy. Don't let your blade get too hot. The edge is particularly vulnerable to heat buildup!

Here is a brief explanation of breadknifing:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188325&page=20

Good luck and happy shaves!

The bread-knife approach was my first thought,seems like it would be more usable/practical.
(actually, first thought was more !@%^&!!!*()$*#).


Thanks for the link and explanation!
John

 

[Pkrankow]

I would take the heel off, and consider bread knifing into metal thick enough to not need a stabilizer. If that crack propagates the blade is toast. Oh wait...that blade is toast already if you do nothing.

Phil

 

[vigorous.elbows]

Yeah those are pretty nice scales (from what I can see)
I'd keep it. Might come in handy later if you need some scales, something to add to a PIF or sale (as a collection piece), or even for cutting...rope? Cheese?

You'd have a pretty cool pocket knife!

 

[jd1965]

I would take the heel off, and consider bread knifing into metal thick enough to not need a stabilizer. If that crack propagates the blade is toast. Oh wait...that blade is toast already if you do nothing.

Phil

I hadn't thought about it splitting further once it was ground down.

Yeah those are pretty nice scales (from what I can see)
I'd keep it. Might come in handy later if you need some scales, something to add to a PIF or sale (as a collection piece), or even for cutting...rope? Cheese?

You'd have a pretty cool pocket knife!

They are nice scales, I'm keeping those even if the grinding doesn't work out.
..... or tape.

 

[Pkrankow]

I hadn't thought about it splitting further once it was ground down.



They are nice scales, I'm keeping those even if the grinding doesn't work out.
..... or tape.

I would be keeping the sweet scales either way.

A traditional way to isolate a crack in metal is to drill a small hole at the very end of it. A similar result may be achieved using a fiber disk and very carefully grinding a slot to the end of the crack before doing further work. The idea is to create a smooth radius instead of the "zero width" crack.

Stabilizing the blade so it cannot flex while doing this initial grind or drill is important.

Phil

 

[jd1965]

I would be keeping the sweet scales either way.

A traditional way to isolate a crack in metal is to drill a small hole at the very end of it. A similar result may be achieved using a fiber disk and very carefully grinding a slot to the end of the crack before doing further work. The idea is to create a smooth radius instead of the "zero width" crack.

Stabilizing the blade so it cannot flex while doing this initial grind or drill is important.

Phil

Thanks Phil.
Kind of like a 'stop cut'. That makes sense.
I've seen a couple of blades altered on the BST recently, its definitely worth a shot.

John