question about buffer compound

[global_dev]

i picked up some compounds about 6 total from HF and Lowes (RYOBI) and it seems if all will be trying to be more of a polisher than coarse cutting... i thought bLack Emory with a sewn pad would be coarse cutting, but it's slow goings and results in mirror like finish... after some time, and time is flying by while i am trying to get some major scratches out...

what gets a polished satin look? rather than mirror? i guess i am asking whats the coarser cutters?

thanks

 

[MileMarker60]

For polishing compounds, I would think a fast cutting SS compound would be the most aggressive. This being said you have to remember polishing compounds are just that, polishing...no real metal remove (which can be good or bad).
To get a satin look your going to have to go to something more aggressive like a 600 grit greaseless compound. There are other options, like buy the desired loose grit/medium and gluing it to your wheel but it easier just to buy a tube of the greaseless and go from there.

 

[skipnord]

Yep. You need greaseless compound if you want to remove material. Try Janz Knifemakers Supply.

 

[azmark]

You likely have more rouges. Try Caswells

 

[dakotaev]

The Caswell 600 Grit compound produces a very nice satin finish.

 

[honed]

Emery (Black) on a sisal wheel is the most aggressive cutter of the polishing compounds. However, it will still not remove deep pitting.
But it will also never cause that "over-restored" look that greaseless often cause in the hands of a hobby restores. I.e loosing the crisp edges of the steel & everything ends up very shiny & smooth like a chromed car bumper instead of looking like a sharp razor...

If you use emery on sisal & white on stitched cotton you'll end up with a clean & shiny blade ifs it was pretty clean to begin with & if it's rather bad you keep the patina, but remove the ragged, grimy look. For me that is a good thing, but most seems to go for that over-the-top shine, even at the cost of every crisp line & if that's your game, greaseless is the only way to go.

 

[johnmrson]

I stopped using sisal wheels after I figured out that the greaseless compound really doesn't stick that well to them.
To get rid of deepish scratches, you need something more aggressive than black emery.

 

[global_dev]

thanks guys, i guess i'll put in an order somewhere...

any good reason to buy lower grits like 100 or 200?

 

[dakotaev]

thanks guys, i guess i'll put in an order somewhere...

any good reason to buy lower grits like 100 or 200?

You'd use the lower grits for getting out deep pits. But be warned, the lower you go, the more chance you have a "rounding" the edges of the blade. Without practice, its easy for it to look "amateurish". Not that it's really bad, but I think its easier to accidentally get that effect when starting off with lower grits.

I tend to stay with 400-600 grit on most razors and live with any small pits that might be left behind (if there was rust or pits to start with). I find It still creates a really nice finish without the rounding effect.

Disclaimer: I'm not a greasless compound expert, I'm just drawing from my couple months of experience with it.

 

[mdunn]

I stopped using sisal wheels after I figured out that the greaseless compound really doesn't stick that well to them.
To get rid of deepish scratches, you need something more aggressive than black emery.

You using sewn cloth wheels now, John?