It is with great pleasure, we are ready to introduce our "Hybrid" line of Cold Process shave soap. We hand-make our Cold Process soap in small batches as it has been made for centuries.
Using what we have found to be the very best blend of butter and oils; Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Palm Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, and Olive Oil we thought we had finally produced a good shave soap after dumping a LOT into the big green can.
Initial Tester reports were very positive. Now I would like to share (with Mr. Metzler's permission) this evaluation.
Robert E. Metzler, Attorney at Law
330 Jefferson Street
St. Charles, Missouri 63301
314-434-0920 314-434-7681 fax
September 17, 2008
Sue
Saint Charles Shave
RE: Test results of new cold processed shave soap
Dear Sue,
Thank you so much for giving me the opportunity to test your new cold process shave soap. I have tried so many products over the years that I believe that my review should be considered as coming from an experienced wet shaver. Also, the review comes from the perspective of a shaver that generally uses creams rather than soaps as his preferred choice. This preference of creams over soaps, is not due to any particular dislike of soaps but rather because I like the flexibility of easily changing fragrances from day to day.
I believe you may be surprised by my overall review of this product. It is: THIS MAY BE THE FINEST LATHERING PRODUCT I HAVE EVER USED! I have come to this conclusion based upon the following characteristics:
PRICE: It is my understanding that you are planning to price this soap at around the $10.00 range. I believe you could probably charge more given that the soap lasts so long. By comparison with glycerin soap, this soap cake could last three to four times as long as the glycerin equivalent. I believe it probably will last as long as a triple milled soap of the same size and weight.
QUALITY: The quality is superb. One thing I particularly like about the soap is that it has a bit of an abrasive quality to it compared to either a glycerin or triple milled soap. The brush has a bit of a rougher texture to work against which makes brush loading/puck lathering easier.
SCENT: The scent you sent me was Savory Rose. It has the same scent as the glycerin version but somewhat more subtle. Floral fragrances are not my first choice but I like them occasionally. For everyday use I would prefer a spicier or muskier scent but as a floral fragrance the rose can’t be beat.
LATHER: Up to now you have probably been wondering why I rate this soap so high. The LATHER is what sets this soap head and shoulders above the competition. Please forgive the rather detailed lather review but I believe it will help users who will buy this product once it is available.
This soap is unlike any other that I have used. It does not behave like a triple milled soap or glycerin soap but rather like a hybrid. In order to understand what I mean I will give you my impressions of glycerin vs. triple milled soap lathering techniques. With glycerin soap I usually lather right on top of the soap puck.
Using a brush that has been lightly shaken out I apply the brush to the soap that has been lightly soaked in water just to get it wet. Just add water and keep whipping until you reach the consistency you want. If the mix gets too thin just keep whipping on the soap and it will thicken back up. With a triple milled soap you soak the puck with water for a longer period of time, up to five to ten minutes if you want. This will soften the soap and make it easier to load the brush. You then hit the soap with a rather well shaken brush so as to allow the brush to load up rather well before beginning the real lathering process.
Whip the brush across that soap cake until the brush appears to have plenty of soap and the hairs clump up together. Then take that well loaded brush and move it to a separate lathering mug or bowl and begin the real lathering process by adding water and whipping until you get the consistency you want. NOW FORTHIS SOAP-- This soap does not want to load up well on the brush like a triple milled soap nor does it hit its stride by just lathering on the puck like glycerin soap. I have found the greatest success by treating it like glycerin soap and lathering on top of the puck and then finishing the lathering process in a separate mug or bowl.
Here is the process:
FIRST: Soak the puck in warm water for about a minute to soften up the hard soap. Then apply a lightly shook, fairly wet brush to the soap and begin whipping. This soap will not begin to lather as fast as a glycerin puck so give it time. After working on the puck for about 15 to 20 rotations begin adding water. This soap can take a lot of water. Your first addition of water can be as much as a full teaspoon without any fear. You will likely need more water anyway. Whip and add water by ½ to ¾ teaspoon full amounts until the soap EXPLODES into gobs of rich lather. Two things here: 1) I do mean explodes into lather. You are almost there when the lather really begins to morph, and 2) the water measurements are only for guidance and to give you an idea of the quantity needed. I personally like to use measuring spoons because it gives me control and avoids unwanted over-watering of the mix.
SECOND: I suggest you apply this thick, exploded mix to your face at this point. You may like the consistency, but I personally find that in almost every instance the lather is a bit too thick. I have shaved with it and it works well but it tends to load up the razor and is somewhat difficult to get off the beard the way I like. I personally feel that the lather needs a little thinning at this point. I take my brush and get as much of the lather out of the first bowl and into a final mixing mug or bowl as I can. This is similar to how you mix up triple milled soaps but with the added feature of having made a large amount of initial lather already. Add a little water at a time (I suggest ¼ teaspoon increments) and whip away. You will need very little additional water. The whole idea is to convert a rather heavy cream into a slightly more wet and smooth mix. It never hurts to squeeze out the brush between the thumb and forefinger and give it the feel test. It should feel slick and cushiony.
NOW, THIS IS WHERE THIS SOAP ROCKS!!! I can say, without equivocation, that this soap produces the longest lasting lather I have ever experienced. Once this lather is applied it does NOT break down on the first or subsequent passes when the lather has hit its sweet spot. It may need a tiny bit of water to freshen it up but otherwise it will hang in there for you.
I will, when the opportunity presents itself and/or I am otherwise bored, take pictures over time as to what happens to this lather when left on the face for an extended period. The lather, when applied to the face, looks exactly the same at the end of a pass as it did when applied originally. It’s truly uncanny. I don’t doubt that the lather would hold up for 15 to 20 minutes with little change. Hit it with a little dab of water on the tips of the brush and it will be good as new. I actually hit my brush with a spritz of water when I discovered the lather was a bit too heavy on my face on the first use of the soap. I face lathered it thinner in that manner.
For those that have the time or take the time to shave rather slowly, this is a perfect product for them. You could probably take a business call with the lather on your face and come back later never missing a beat. In this respect this soap exceeds your other soaps and creams by quite a margin. That’s saying a lot since your other soaps and creams are exceptional in terms of lather retention.
To save users some early frustration, please remind your customers that a cold process soap should have its outer layer removed before use. I don’t know what you call it but the soap does have a film/crust that should be washed/worn off before getting good results. Try washing your hands with the soap and working up a good soapy mix. That should be enough to get you going.
Lastly, here is my brush recommendation. Personally, I usually use a Omega Professional boar brush for my glycerin soaps. They are inexpensive, well constructed and get soft enough for my taste after a short break in period. I was told to use a boar brush with this soap as well. Just for the experiment, I used a C&E Best Badger with the soap after letting the soap puck soak as described. I actually got my best results with the badger brush! Just keep in mind that this result was likely due to the presoak of the soap puck. The presoak gets the soap soft enough that the badger worked beautifully with it.
NEXT CATEGORY
EFFICACY: This soap does everything it is supposed to do and more. I had no skip or tugging. I can’t say it is the slickest lather I have ever had but it certainly more than adequate. One thing I have noticed about very slick lathers is that they often mean lather build-up in the razor and difficulty rinsing off the razor and, ultimately, the face. This soap give you a lather that rinses off the razor well and yet gives a smooth feel as the razor passes over the face. Also, I have been suffering from a sinus, upper respiratory infection and have irritated the area around my nostrils. The lather did not burn or further irritate that sensitive area.
MOISTURIZING: This is not the most moisturizing lathering product that SCS makes. I wish I could tell you which of your products I like the best in regards to moisturizing properties but I just can’t recall at the moment. Having said all that, I don’t recall any of your products doing anything but leaving a soft, moist facial end result. Some are seemingly just a bit better than others and overall better than most of the competition. I believe this soap could be considered of average moisturizing quality in terms of your overall line of creams and soaps. Again, that puts it ahead of much of the competition.
Thanks again for letting me try a sample. I hope this review has been helpful. Please feel free to use any part or all of the review for your own uses. Let me know when the product is introduced and other fragrances are available.
Sincerely,
Bob Metzler
Currently we have a limited quantity of Savory Rose that will be on our website someime this weekend. The next batch is our own blend of Jasmine, Amber and Sandalwood. It will be 'cured' and ready to ship on October 7th.
Sue & Wendy
Using what we have found to be the very best blend of butter and oils; Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Palm Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, and Olive Oil we thought we had finally produced a good shave soap after dumping a LOT into the big green can.
Initial Tester reports were very positive. Now I would like to share (with Mr. Metzler's permission) this evaluation.
Robert E. Metzler, Attorney at Law
330 Jefferson Street
St. Charles, Missouri 63301
314-434-0920 314-434-7681 fax
September 17, 2008
Sue
Saint Charles Shave
RE: Test results of new cold processed shave soap
Dear Sue,
Thank you so much for giving me the opportunity to test your new cold process shave soap. I have tried so many products over the years that I believe that my review should be considered as coming from an experienced wet shaver. Also, the review comes from the perspective of a shaver that generally uses creams rather than soaps as his preferred choice. This preference of creams over soaps, is not due to any particular dislike of soaps but rather because I like the flexibility of easily changing fragrances from day to day.
I believe you may be surprised by my overall review of this product. It is: THIS MAY BE THE FINEST LATHERING PRODUCT I HAVE EVER USED! I have come to this conclusion based upon the following characteristics:
PRICE: It is my understanding that you are planning to price this soap at around the $10.00 range. I believe you could probably charge more given that the soap lasts so long. By comparison with glycerin soap, this soap cake could last three to four times as long as the glycerin equivalent. I believe it probably will last as long as a triple milled soap of the same size and weight.
QUALITY: The quality is superb. One thing I particularly like about the soap is that it has a bit of an abrasive quality to it compared to either a glycerin or triple milled soap. The brush has a bit of a rougher texture to work against which makes brush loading/puck lathering easier.
SCENT: The scent you sent me was Savory Rose. It has the same scent as the glycerin version but somewhat more subtle. Floral fragrances are not my first choice but I like them occasionally. For everyday use I would prefer a spicier or muskier scent but as a floral fragrance the rose can’t be beat.
LATHER: Up to now you have probably been wondering why I rate this soap so high. The LATHER is what sets this soap head and shoulders above the competition. Please forgive the rather detailed lather review but I believe it will help users who will buy this product once it is available.
This soap is unlike any other that I have used. It does not behave like a triple milled soap or glycerin soap but rather like a hybrid. In order to understand what I mean I will give you my impressions of glycerin vs. triple milled soap lathering techniques. With glycerin soap I usually lather right on top of the soap puck.
Using a brush that has been lightly shaken out I apply the brush to the soap that has been lightly soaked in water just to get it wet. Just add water and keep whipping until you reach the consistency you want. If the mix gets too thin just keep whipping on the soap and it will thicken back up. With a triple milled soap you soak the puck with water for a longer period of time, up to five to ten minutes if you want. This will soften the soap and make it easier to load the brush. You then hit the soap with a rather well shaken brush so as to allow the brush to load up rather well before beginning the real lathering process.
Whip the brush across that soap cake until the brush appears to have plenty of soap and the hairs clump up together. Then take that well loaded brush and move it to a separate lathering mug or bowl and begin the real lathering process by adding water and whipping until you get the consistency you want. NOW FORTHIS SOAP-- This soap does not want to load up well on the brush like a triple milled soap nor does it hit its stride by just lathering on the puck like glycerin soap. I have found the greatest success by treating it like glycerin soap and lathering on top of the puck and then finishing the lathering process in a separate mug or bowl.
Here is the process:
FIRST: Soak the puck in warm water for about a minute to soften up the hard soap. Then apply a lightly shook, fairly wet brush to the soap and begin whipping. This soap will not begin to lather as fast as a glycerin puck so give it time. After working on the puck for about 15 to 20 rotations begin adding water. This soap can take a lot of water. Your first addition of water can be as much as a full teaspoon without any fear. You will likely need more water anyway. Whip and add water by ½ to ¾ teaspoon full amounts until the soap EXPLODES into gobs of rich lather. Two things here: 1) I do mean explodes into lather. You are almost there when the lather really begins to morph, and 2) the water measurements are only for guidance and to give you an idea of the quantity needed. I personally like to use measuring spoons because it gives me control and avoids unwanted over-watering of the mix.
SECOND: I suggest you apply this thick, exploded mix to your face at this point. You may like the consistency, but I personally find that in almost every instance the lather is a bit too thick. I have shaved with it and it works well but it tends to load up the razor and is somewhat difficult to get off the beard the way I like. I personally feel that the lather needs a little thinning at this point. I take my brush and get as much of the lather out of the first bowl and into a final mixing mug or bowl as I can. This is similar to how you mix up triple milled soaps but with the added feature of having made a large amount of initial lather already. Add a little water at a time (I suggest ¼ teaspoon increments) and whip away. You will need very little additional water. The whole idea is to convert a rather heavy cream into a slightly more wet and smooth mix. It never hurts to squeeze out the brush between the thumb and forefinger and give it the feel test. It should feel slick and cushiony.
NOW, THIS IS WHERE THIS SOAP ROCKS!!! I can say, without equivocation, that this soap produces the longest lasting lather I have ever experienced. Once this lather is applied it does NOT break down on the first or subsequent passes when the lather has hit its sweet spot. It may need a tiny bit of water to freshen it up but otherwise it will hang in there for you.
I will, when the opportunity presents itself and/or I am otherwise bored, take pictures over time as to what happens to this lather when left on the face for an extended period. The lather, when applied to the face, looks exactly the same at the end of a pass as it did when applied originally. It’s truly uncanny. I don’t doubt that the lather would hold up for 15 to 20 minutes with little change. Hit it with a little dab of water on the tips of the brush and it will be good as new. I actually hit my brush with a spritz of water when I discovered the lather was a bit too heavy on my face on the first use of the soap. I face lathered it thinner in that manner.
For those that have the time or take the time to shave rather slowly, this is a perfect product for them. You could probably take a business call with the lather on your face and come back later never missing a beat. In this respect this soap exceeds your other soaps and creams by quite a margin. That’s saying a lot since your other soaps and creams are exceptional in terms of lather retention.
To save users some early frustration, please remind your customers that a cold process soap should have its outer layer removed before use. I don’t know what you call it but the soap does have a film/crust that should be washed/worn off before getting good results. Try washing your hands with the soap and working up a good soapy mix. That should be enough to get you going.
Lastly, here is my brush recommendation. Personally, I usually use a Omega Professional boar brush for my glycerin soaps. They are inexpensive, well constructed and get soft enough for my taste after a short break in period. I was told to use a boar brush with this soap as well. Just for the experiment, I used a C&E Best Badger with the soap after letting the soap puck soak as described. I actually got my best results with the badger brush! Just keep in mind that this result was likely due to the presoak of the soap puck. The presoak gets the soap soft enough that the badger worked beautifully with it.
NEXT CATEGORY
EFFICACY: This soap does everything it is supposed to do and more. I had no skip or tugging. I can’t say it is the slickest lather I have ever had but it certainly more than adequate. One thing I have noticed about very slick lathers is that they often mean lather build-up in the razor and difficulty rinsing off the razor and, ultimately, the face. This soap give you a lather that rinses off the razor well and yet gives a smooth feel as the razor passes over the face. Also, I have been suffering from a sinus, upper respiratory infection and have irritated the area around my nostrils. The lather did not burn or further irritate that sensitive area.
MOISTURIZING: This is not the most moisturizing lathering product that SCS makes. I wish I could tell you which of your products I like the best in regards to moisturizing properties but I just can’t recall at the moment. Having said all that, I don’t recall any of your products doing anything but leaving a soft, moist facial end result. Some are seemingly just a bit better than others and overall better than most of the competition. I believe this soap could be considered of average moisturizing quality in terms of your overall line of creams and soaps. Again, that puts it ahead of much of the competition.
Thanks again for letting me try a sample. I hope this review has been helpful. Please feel free to use any part or all of the review for your own uses. Let me know when the product is introduced and other fragrances are available.
Sincerely,
Bob Metzler
Currently we have a limited quantity of Savory Rose that will be on our website someime this weekend. The next batch is our own blend of Jasmine, Amber and Sandalwood. It will be 'cured' and ready to ship on October 7th.
Sue & Wendy
