Liven up this forum

[Joe Edson]

Alright Jeremy I'll bite as well. I've been wanting to mess around with a 4-sided paddle strop with various Pastes and CrOx and such to see what these do to an edge. Me being the DIY cheapskate thought about putting together something like this. For the Paddle I was thinking of this (Assuming it is how it is pictured with the handle):

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18577

Thinking of the 2" x 2" x 12" Blank or the 1.5" squared one.

Then for the leather I was going to go with this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-8-9-oz-Veg-Ta...57790013?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0#ht_1152wt_1139

So basically with shipping I could make a 4-sided paddle strop for about $25. Then comes in the costs for CrOx and stuff, but it looks like it might be fun to do. What do you think? Is that leather suitable for what I'm thinking? Is there a cheaper route to go?

 

[ShavedZombie]

Alright Jeremy I'll bite as well. I've been wanting to mess around with a 4-sided paddle strop with various Pastes and CrOx and such to see what these do to an edge. Me being the DIY cheapskate thought about putting together something like this. For the Paddle I was thinking of this (Assuming it is how it is pictured with the handle):

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18577

Thinking of the 2" x 2" x 12" Blank or the 1.5" squared one.

Then for the leather I was going to go with this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-8-9-oz-Veg-Ta...57790013?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0#ht_1152wt_1139

So basically with shipping I could make a 4-sided paddle strop for about $25. Then comes in the costs for CrOx and stuff, but it looks like it might be fun to do. What do you think? Is that leather suitable for what I'm thinking? Is there a cheaper route to go?

That paddle should work just fine. I'd recommend the 2'' version. As for leathers, that's probably the cheapest bet and, considering you're going to paste it, the quality of the leather doesn't matter much, as long as it's not trashed, cut, or has debris lodged in it.

As for paste, I'd reccomend the .5micron Chromium Oxide crayon on Straight Razor designs. Along with SRD's .5 and .25 micron diamond sprays. They also have a chromium oxide spray, but I prefer the crayon.

Cheers.

 

[Luc]

Good idea...

all right, 3 questions.

1-What makes a bad strop? There are strops on ebay for sale that are going for $15 and are usually commented as bad strops, why? As long as the leather is smooth (no stiches/holes), shouldn't it be a good strop?

2-Is there a direction to follow when you cut a strop or you could cut it any way and it won't affect the stropping?

3-I know this one is more of a preference but are there better leather than others? In term of leaving a smooth and long lasting edge on a straight razor? Cowhide, English Bridle, Buffalo hid, horsehide?

 

[ShavedZombie]

Good idea...

all right, 3 questions.

1-What makes a bad strop? There are strops on ebay for sale that are going for $15 and are usually commented as bad strops, why? As long as the leather is smooth (no stiches/holes), shouldn't it be a good strop?

2-Is there a direction to follow when you cut a strop or you could cut it any way and it won't affect the stropping?

3-I know this one is more of a preference but are there better leather than others? In term of leaving a smooth and long lasting edge on a straight razor? Cowhide, English Bridle, Buffalo hid, horsehide?

1. There is no such thing as a bad strop. There are things that are called strops and AREN'T strops. It's like calling a Zeepk a straight razor. Sure it's shaped like it, but if it can't shave (and I mean actually shave, not tug and cut hair) it isn't a razor. Likewise, you could call Zeepk and Selective strops "strops. Because, so some extent, they will clean/polish the edge of a razor... But they just won't do it well. I know that may sound a bit conflicting (that it'll somewhat strop, but isn't a strop) but it'll make sense if you try, several weeks in a row, using a razor stropped on a Zeepk, and a razor stropped on a strop. Which I've done and regret the experience, if not the knowledge. I use strops that are completely untreated leather (aside from the tanning process). They work excellently as is. However, Zeepk is such poor leather that it's almost nagahyde. It's just really crappy leather and in bad condition. Like stropping on plastic. I can't really think of a good way to describe this, other than the Zeepk strops are to real strops what Zeepk razors are to real razors.

I'm trying to come up with better descriptions... A real strop will constantly keep a razor in good condition (I know guys who can keep a razor off the hones for years at a time on good stropping alone. I'll take his word for it, but one of my stropping mentors claimed he could go a decade sans hone, and had done ujust that. And I believe him.) Meanwhile, a zeepk or selective strop will make the shave better than with an unstropped razor, but so marginally that it's barely worth it. Newspaper makes a better strop than a Zeepk, as far as I'm concerned

2. that depends on the leather. For instance, there may be scars and fat wrinkles to cut around. That's the first thing to consider. Also, you want to keep the thickness of the leather uniform, so there's something. Another ting of importance: some leathers have "naps" (grains) you want to cut with, or against the nap (so that it runs N-S). I'm not sure why this helps, but, in my usage, if the grain is diagonal or East to West it just doesn't work as well. It still works fine, but there's a small difference.

3. That is ENTIRELY preference as long as you're using good leather. Some people like draw, some people like texture, some people like completely smooth and some people like no draw. That's the real difference between strops. All surfaces equally uniform, the results should be mostly the same. That being said, some strops (like Tony Millers, or SRD's) are reported to have waxes and treatments that enhance the results. While I can't see much of a difference either way, there is treatment to take into account. However, if it's a strop your making, most leathers are considered equal outside of preference.

cheers,
Jeremy

 

[Luc]

1. There is no such thing as a bad strop. There are things that are called strops and AREN'T strops. It's like calling a Zeepk a straight razor. Sure it's shaped like it, but if it can't shave (and I mean actually shave, not tug and cut hair) it isn't a razor. Likewise, you could call Zeepk and Selective strops "strops. Because, so some extent, they will clean/polish the edge of a razor... But they just won't do it well. I know that may sound a bit conflicting (that it'll somewhat strop, but isn't a strop) but it'll make sense if you try, several weeks in a row, using a razor stropped on a Zeepk, and a razor stropped on a strop. Which I've done and regret the experience, if not the knowledge. I use strops that are completely untreated leather (aside from the tanning process). They work excellently as is. However, Zeepk is such poor leather that it's almost nagahyde. It's just really crappy leather and in bad condition. Like stropping on plastic. I can't really think of a good way to describe this, other than the Zeepk strops are to real strops what Zeepk razors are to real razors.

I'm trying to come up with better descriptions... A real strop will constantly keep a razor in good condition (I know guys who can keep a razor off the hones for years at a time on good stropping alone. I'll take his word for it, but one of my stropping mentors claimed he could go a decade sans hone, and had done ujust that. And I believe him.) Meanwhile, a zeepk or selective strop will make the shave better than with an unstropped razor, but so marginally that it's barely worth it. Newspaper makes a better strop than a Zeepk, as far as I'm concerned

2. that depends on the leather. For instance, there may be scars and fat wrinkles to cut around. That's the first thing to consider. Also, you want to keep the thickness of the leather uniform, so there's something. Another ting of importance: some leathers have "naps" (grains) you want to cut with, or against the nap (so that it runs N-S). I'm not sure why this helps, but, in my usage, if the grain is diagonal or East to West it just doesn't work as well. It still works fine, but there's a small difference.

3. That is ENTIRELY preference as long as you're using good leather. Some people like draw, some people like texture, some people like completely smooth and some people like no draw. That's the real difference between strops. All surfaces equally uniform, the results should be mostly the same. That being said, some strops (like Tony Millers, or SRD's) are reported to have waxes and treatments that enhance the results. While I can't see much of a difference either way, there is treatment to take into account. However, if it's a strop your making, most leathers are considered equal outside of preference.

cheers,
Jeremy

Very informative, thanks for that... I'm thinking that you would probably be a great resource to expand the Wiki section and document what most members should know!

 

[ShavedZombie]

Any way I can help, let me know. I've got freetime until the 28th (and after that, but then I'll be on campus )

I've just wanted to get this forum going, it seemed pretty stagnant, and I'm sure that someone had questions to ask... I know that I went in the dark a while thinking "I'll look stupid for asking that" so I wanted people to ask the simple questions, or the hard ones. I need something to do!

Cheers,
Jeremy

 

[domino]

Do you recommend diamond sprays for leather or is paste a better option?

 

[ShavedZombie]

For leathers I use paste. I prefer sprays to pastes though, and I put sprays on Wool felt. SRD or Tony Miller are my favorites

 

[domino]

For leathers I use paste. I prefer sprays to pastes though, and I put sprays on Wool felt. SRD or Tony Miller are my favorites

Kool!....thanks

 

[ShavedZombie]

Also worth noting: I don't like doing touchups with paste... Just personal preference though.

I always do touchups on stones (12k Naniwa, or a Barber's hone that will soon be with another member) then finish with pastes (I like .5micron diamond best at this point in time). When it comes touchup time, I don't try to use pastes to extend time off the stones, I just do a quick 5-10 laps on the stone, then 10 laps on the paste, strop and go until it needs stone-time again.

That's just my OCD method though

 

[ImaWestie]

Luc, if you're making strops you need to make a few to get value out of the roll of leather. You know at least one recent Aussie B&B'er who is looking for one...

It's possible that after my brother gets back from his little horse-ride, I will "borrow" some of his leather tools and have a go at this. It's something I might actually be able to do in my overflowing, tiny shed...

 

[Seraphim]

Zombie:

To liven up this forum, you should post up pics of your strops.

Nobody can resist pics!!!

 

[ShavedZombie]

Good call Seraphim, I'll get on that tonight (Have a day with my girlfriend planned)

Cheers,
Jeremy

 

[Luc]

Luc, if you're making strops you need to make a few to get value out of the roll of leather. You know at least one recent Aussie B&B'er who is looking for one...

It's possible that after my brother gets back from his little horse-ride, I will "borrow" some of his leather tools and have a go at this. It's something I might actually be able to do in my overflowing, tiny shed...

Yes, I know that would work and it's like everything... Why do 1 when I can do 10 for almost the same price? I don't have the space or equipment to do this here. Maybe one day...

Zombie:

To liven up this forum, you should post up pics of your strops.

Nobody can resist pics!!!

+1

 

[ShavedZombie]

Well, guys, I've just found a local leather shop... They were out of hole punches, but I did leave with some nice hides. A 3" Tanned cowhide, a 2.5inch Tanned cowhide, and a 2.5 inch red Latigo cowhide.

I still need to get more D-rings and some chicago screws from Tandy, but the strops are going to happen! Affordable, user grade beginner strops, brought to you by Jeremy

That being said, I'm going to go snap some pictures of my... Modest... Strop collection.

Cheers,
Jeremy

 

[ShavedZombie]

I apologize for the delay, I was doing rescales and working the chat-room

Without further ado, my strops (and there are still some in the mail)

1. Kangaroo and paper-backed denim (the paper keeps the denim from cupping or crowning)

2. Tony Miller Horsehide and Nylon. One of my favorites. I love horsehide.

3. Ambrose Spanish Horsehide and Cotton. Absolute favorite.

4. Kangaroo hide and SRD Herringbone Cotton. Tied with TM Horsehide for second favorite.

5. TM Latigo and Linen. My least favorite, but I still love it, and it's an excellent strop.. Just too much draw for me.

(that's my picture limit)

 

[ShavedZombie]

1. SRD English Bridle and webbed fabric. Love it!

2. A vintage loom strop. It performs great, and has almost no draw.

3. SRD Modular Paddle. I love this thing. It does everything. .5 micron diamond on felt, Raw felt, rough leather, Premium IV and Premium I. It's a great strop!

There you go guys. That's it for now. There'll be more, though... There'll always be more

 

[Joe Edson]

Where'd you get that Roo Strop? I actually quite like the look of it.

 

[ShavedZombie]

I got the roo strips (both) from an Aussie friend, then came up with components to make a full strop. I doubt I can snag any more (it's kind of illegal to export roo from Australia withoug a permit)

So, I have the 2.5 inch one that I made a denim component for, and the 3" one that I bought a Herringbone Cotton for.

 

[ImaWestie]

I got the roo strips (both) from an Aussie friend, then came up with components to make a full strop. I doubt I can snag any more (it's kind of illegal to export roo from Australia withoug a permit)

What other nation would leave 1/2 of it's coat of arms lying rotting on the ground due to laws about how to use it legally?

edit:
actually, make that both halves. Double the shame.